My clutch unwound itself

[Silverhooker]

Have to agree with the mantra that "chainsaws don't take prisoners".  Really wouldn't get to deep in to this sort of stuff on your own, best to take it to a local chap that knows what he is up to, my local repair chap is only too keen to give me a wee tutorial about what he is doing and I've learned loads from him. 

 Saws are easy to replace, hands, eyes etc are much more difficult.

[AngrySquirrel]

2 hours ago, Silverhooker said:

Have to agree with the mantra that "chainsaws don't take prisoners".  Really wouldn't get to deep in to this sort of stuff on your own, best to take it to a local chap that knows what he is up to, my local repair chap is only too keen to give me a wee tutorial about what he is doing and I've learned loads from him. 

 Saws are easy to replace, hands, eyes etc are much more difficult.

Yep easy to cut off but not so easy to stitch back on!?

[Al Slitter]

I am hoping that this reply puts this post to rest.

I feels like a shooting gallery to me.

 

OK, I have the sprocket in my hand and it says  325-7

The bar says Pitch of .325 and Gauge @ 1.5mm (.058)

The chain is listed as Pitch of .325 and Gauge @ 1.5mm (.058) and 76 links

 

Please let this end here!!!

[Khriss]

4 hours ago, Al Slitter said:

I am hoping that this reply puts this post to rest.

I feels like a shooting gallery to me.

 

OK, I have the sprocket in my hand and it says  325-7

The bar says Pitch of .325 and Gauge @ 1.5mm (.058)

The chain is listed as Pitch of .325 and Gauge @ 1.5mm (.058) and 76 links

 

Please let this end here!!!

Yr In ? everything you need to know to order the parts. Obvs a 7 tooth drive sprocket, you can go up one tooth if you want a faster cut. K

Edited November 5, 2020 by Khriss
Basically I have two drive sprockets, one more tooth, fr conifer cutting

[AngrySquirrel]

15 hours ago, Al Slitter said:

I am hoping that this reply puts this post to rest.

I feels like a shooting gallery to me.

 

OK, I have the sprocket in my hand and it says  325-7

The bar says Pitch of .325 and Gauge @ 1.5mm (.058)

The chain is listed as Pitch of .325 and Gauge @ 1.5mm (.058) and 76 links

 

Please let this end here!!!

But if you had said that in first place any could have directed you and no one is having a go but many on here have seen types come in with not only no idea but also dangerous methods!

So learn correct terms/applications/fittings along with maintenance so stay safe stay alive.

When your talking about Pitch all three need to be right but when your talking about Gauge only bar and chain have to match if pitch stays the same 325.

I have same set up but also now have 0.50 bar and chain.

With chain on bar have back nut loose front one nipped if has two? rest nose of bar on something so kept up so front part of saw is off the ground ie pivoting in middle with brake off release front nut so bar can move! then adjust chain so just hangs in middle of underside of bar(can see part of the pick up teeth but not all!)then nip nuts up enough so won't move then glide chain through checking for tight/loose spots and if free on sprocket and bar(Does happen had a new sprocket that was faulty would keep catching every so often)once happy tight front one up check again then do back one to working tight.

Then put brake back on!

Reason you keep nose up it's best chain line!

 

When you run with chain on and away from others/danger! is the chain is the load so if no chain you have no load so RPM limits would be false.

But like most things only as safe as the Operator!

Edited November 5, 2020 by AngrySquirrel

[Stubby]

54 minutes ago, AngrySquirrel said:

But if you had said that in first place any could have directed you and no one is having a go but many on here have seen types come in with not only no idea but also dangerous methods!

So learn correct terms/applications/fittings along with maintenance so stay safe stay alive.

When your talking about Pitch all three need to be right but when your talking about Gauge only bar and chain have to match if pitch stays the same 325.

I have same set up but also now have 0.50 bar and chain.

With chain on bar have back nut loose front one nipped if has two? rest nose of bar on something so kept up so front part of saw is off the ground ie pivoting in middle with brake off release front nut so bar can move! then adjust chain so just hangs in middle of underside of bar(can see part of the pick up teeth but not all!)then nip nuts up enough so won't move then glide chain through checking for tight/loose spots and if free on sprocket and bar(Does happen had a new sprocket that was faulty would keep catching every so often)once happy tight front one up check again then do back one to working tight.

Then put brake back on!

Reason you keep nose up it's best chain line!

 

When you run with chain on and away from others/danger! is the chain is the load so if no chain you have no load so RPM limits would be false.

But like most things only as safe as the Operator!

The reason you keep the nose up is if you adjust the chain with the bar down the first time you lean on the saw whilst cutting bar can creep up and then chain will be loose .

[Silverhooker]

No one is having a go at you, we’ve all made daft mistakes that we just about got away with, just trying to stop you doing anything silly and dangerous. I’ve learned loads from guys on this site the best tip was listen carefully to people who know what they are doing and keep safe.

[AngrySquirrel]

1 hour ago, Stubby said:

The reason you keep the nose up is if you adjust the chain with the bar down the first time you lean on the saw whilst cutting bar can creep up and then chain will be loose .

Why i said best chain line!

[Stubby]

7 hours ago, AngrySquirrel said:

Why i said best chain line!

OK . Did not understand .