Rounded allen cap - (down a hole)

[doobin]

7 hours ago, spudulike said:

It is usually a case of smacking in the next size Allen, a slightly larger AF Allen or a suitable torx bit. You could do this and try a rattle gun on it for the most undoing impact. A flat screwdriver may also do it otherwise as someone earlier said, cut around the bolt and buy a new cover.

If all else fails, drill the head off, remove the cover and then cut a slot in it, heat the fecker up and undo it with a screwdriver......there is always a way

In my experience, an impact wrench will always trash a stripped allen head further. I far prefer an old fasioned imapct driver that you hit with a hammer, as mentioned above.

 

[Ratman]

Good job on the extraction [emoji106] as an aid to the future, refit your new bolt with some grease that is specific to use with alloy materials, and every once in a while remove and retreat. Some litte and often tlc on your equipment here and there will save you plenty in the long run and reward you in your pocket at the same time.

[AHPP]

Well done. The difference between a bad mechanic and a good mechanic is that the good mechanic doesn’t give up. There’s always a way.

[mikerecike]

36 minutes ago, Ratman said:

Good job on the extraction as an aid to the future, refit your new bolt with some grease that is specific to use with alloy materials, and every once in a while remove and retreat. Some litte and often tlc on your equipment here and there will save you plenty in the long run and reward you in your pocket at the same time.

Cheers - I used a bit of copper grease on the threads - is there a better option?

[Ratman]

Cheers - I used a bit of copper grease on the threads - is there a better option?

Copper grease is not a perfect match with alloys really, tends to go dry and create the foisting scenario. We use alcoa hub grease at work for majority of steel against alloy applications, wheels/bolts/mating surfaces in general, its pretty expensive i believe but we’re a pretty big workshop so fairly go through it and it really does make a difference we find. Anything mineral based is the best option, you’ll be fine using copper grease or any grease really as long as you pay attention to the bolt often enough i.e just slacken it and retighten it every so often to stop any foist starting “anything wets a good bet” as they say in the lube world [emoji106]

[mikerecike]

4 minutes ago, Ratman said:

Copper grease is not a perfect match with alloys really, tends to go dry and create the foisting scenario. We use alcoa hub grease at work for majority of steel against alloy applications, wheels/bolts/mating surfaces in general, its pretty expensive i believe but we’re a pretty big workshop so fairly go through it and it really does make a difference we find. Anything mineral based is the best option, you’ll be fine using copper grease or any grease really as long as you pay attention to the bolt often enough i.e just slacken it and retighten it every so often to stop any foist starting “anything wets a good bet” as they say in the lube world

Appreciated - didn't realise this. I'll have a shufty to see what greases I've got. Wondering if my tub of castrol grease is mineral based - will need to check. Any thoughts on aluminium anti seize grease? Thanks a lot.

[Stubby]

Just now, mikerecike said:

 Any thoughts on aluminium anti seize grease? Thanks a lot.

I think about it all the time ☺️

[mikerecike]

1 minute ago, Stubby said:

I think about it all the time ☺️

Well, admitting it is the first step to recovery ?

[Ratman]

Appreciated - didn't realise this. I'll have a shufty to see what greases I've got. Wondering if my tub of castrol grease is mineral based - will need to check. Any thoughts on aluminium anti seize grease? Thanks a lot.

Just as said above, anything mineral based (preferably) will suffice, but any grease will help in your case. Even just taking the covers off periodically to clean will help because your “using the threads” so your keeping them clear of build ups. And looking after your kit cos your cleaning em [emoji4]

[Guest Gimlet]

Invest in a set of easy-outs. I use them all too often on my bike. Usually it's chain guard or fender screws because they're mild steel into an aluminium swinging arm. My bike uses torx head screws and they round off easily if they seize. I usually drill the screw head an extra mm or so for better purchase and then gently tap an easy out in with a hammer and turn at the same time till it bites. Works every time. I always replace with stainless. No further issues then.

 

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Edited May 10, 2020 by Gimlet