Drilling Cannon Super Bar

[gonger]

What about drilling in the rivet? This should clamp the Bar with the nose sproket.

 

 

About sharpening Chains in the field.

 

When i first started milling i realised very fast, that the milling itself is not the time breaker. It's fiddeling with the Mill and all the other stuff. 

 

So i thougth to myself, that i need to optimize all these processes.

 

This starts with a ratchet for most of the bolts and ends with an easy solution for loading up the milled lumber. I tried also the Grandberg Sharpener, but also this takes to much time on these chains. (30min for me)

And like i said i stopped the time for changing the chain on a bolt on design and did it in 5 min.

 

Also a big problem for me, was the day before the milling. I need so many diffrent things what i need to take with me. So that's how my Car looked when i drove to my last job.

 

After 2 days of milling the whole trunk looked like if there just exloded a bomb.

Also i dont want to clean my car anymore after these jobs. (takes min. 2 hours)

 

Thats why i want outsource all the milling stuff to my trailer. 

Currently i am welding it together:

 

 

Going to attach a 12 V winch and some boxes on the side for storage.

 

And like i said. My goal is to get the milling job done in one day (for example 2.5 Meter x 90 cm) and load it up to here:

 

[MattyF]

If you drill the nose it will clamp the sprocket and damage or at worse seize and shatter it.. just the same as setting the mill clamp to far over the sprocket ....I can’t work out how Daniel has successfully done this , just does not work from my experience.

 

[DuncanH]

We also have multiple chains which we swap out during the day on our Alaskan mill with the original bar clamps. Yes, it takes some time, but one advantage is that it gives a break from constant sawing, noise, vibration etc and gives the saw a break from non-stop cutting.

[Rough Hewn]

What about drilling in the rivet? This should clamp the Bar with the nose sproket.
 

 
About sharpening Chains in the field.
 
When i first started milling i realised very fast, that the milling itself is not the time breaker. It's fiddeling with the Mill and all the other stuff. 
 
So i thougth to myself, that i need to optimize all these processes.
 
This starts with a ratchet for most of the bolts and ends with an easy solution for loading up the milled lumber. I tried also the Grandberg Sharpener, but also this takes to much time on these chains. (30min for me)
And like i said i stopped the time for changing the chain on a bolt on design and did it in 5 min.
 
Also a big problem for me, was the day before the milling. I need so many diffrent things what i need to take with me. So that's how my Car looked when i drove to my last job.

 
After 2 days of milling the whole trunk looked like if there just exloded a bomb.
Also i dont want to clean my car anymore after these jobs. (takes min. 2 hours)
 
Thats why i want outsource all the milling stuff to my trailer. 
Currently i am welding it together:
 

 
Going to attach a 12 V winch and some boxes on the side for storage.
 
And like i said. My goal is to get the milling job done in one day (for example 2.5 Meter x 90 cm) and load it up to here:
 

Hi Gonger,
I like your setup. Very nice [emoji106]
You should be able to mill at least 2 logs 2.5 x 0.9m in a day.
What Saw and engine is that?

I used to have several chillaskan mills and saws pre set to different cut heights.
661 with 200mm set for first cut,
Then 880 at 50-100mm fir slabbing.
Some times a second and third 660/661 if we could halve the log.
As well as a couple of cross cut saws,
Ladders drills,straps............
Lots of fun.
[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

[Macpherson]

On 23/03/2020 at 05:58, gonger said:

What about drilling in the rivet?

Hi, I suppose if you drilled that rivet your bolt will take the place of it so I would think it would be ok.

I'd be inclined to have a stout piece of flat bar to act as a strongback and bridge across the bar and nose parts up to as near the chain as practical so that the load is spread,this could even be fixed in place from the top with small countersunk Allen screws ...maybe 10mm thick and 20mm wide...

Either that or a specially made thick machined washer of as big a diameter as possible in the available space.

 

I've planned something similar in the past but never got round to it,  Cheers.

[Daniël Bos]

On 23/03/2020 at 08:08, MattyF said:

If you drill the nose it will clamp the sprocket and damage or at worse seize and shatter it.. just the same as setting the mill clamp to far over the sprocket ....I can’t work out how Daniel has successfully done this , just does not work from my experience.

 

The sprocket bearing inner race is a bit bigger than the ring of rivets.

So clamping on that ring of rivets doesn't do anything to the bearing at all. I just used a washer slightly larger than the circle described by the rivets on the bolt head side.

Can't take a pic as mill isn't in the same country I am just now.

[gonger]

On 22/03/2020 at 23:08, Rough Hewn said:

Hi@gonger
Interesting set up
How did you modify the chillaskan?
Yes I would drill no.3
But it's your bar

At first i bought this china mill in 90 cm. Was originally planning to go with 90 cm GB Lp bar. But as it arrived i sent it back and bought the 107cm one. 

The China Mill i could not send back, so is swapped out the profiles for as shown aluminium profiles. The best part about this, that if want to extend the mill, i just can swap out the profiles and attach longer ones. (bought 150cm long ones for the Cannon Super bar)

 

Then i got rid of the clamping mechanism by welding an steel plate to the upper part of the clamping mechanism for beeing able to cut a longer thread into it. Then i attached a winch of ebay and it was done.

 

 

12 hours ago, Rough Hewn said:

Hi Gonger,
I like your setup. Very nice
You should be able to mill at least 2 logs 2.5 x 0.9m in a day.
What Saw and engine is that?

I used to have several chillaskan mills and saws pre set to different cut heights.
661 with 200mm set for first cut,
Then 880 at 50-100mm fir slabbing.
Some times a second and third 660/661 if we could halve the log.
As well as a couple of cross cut saws,
Ladders drills,straps............
Lots of fun.

 

 

I mean i didn't milled that much logs. But i would be happy to mill so much wood in one day. That's why i am optimizing everything to be able to do that. As i was cutting the oak you see in my profile picture it took me 4 days for 2 logs 2.5m x 90-95cm. After 3-4 cuts i was sharpening with the grandberg sharpener. But this definetively screwed up my chains. And on day 3 one of my saws didn't pump any oil. So i couldn't use it anymore. 

 

The saw is a Dolmar 9010 with 90cc 4.9kw (Dolmar is sold to Makita).

 

After that job i sold one 9010 and bouht the Husqvarna 3120. So my milling saw is the 3120 and the cross but saw is going to be the Dolmar. And if the 3120 dies i can still mill with the Dolmar.

 

On 23/03/2020 at 10:13, DuncanH said:

We also have multiple chains which we swap out during the day on our Alaskan mill with the original bar clamps. Yes, it takes some time, but one advantage is that it gives a break from constant sawing, noise, vibration etc and gives the saw a break from non-stop cutting.

For me it is really hard and too much fiddeling to do that. I mean i better change the chain in 5 min and then spent some time in drinking tea and doing a break. 

 

 

 

But now i met a decision. I am going to drill in the sword and just see how i can extend the mill cover of the nose or just make a new one... 

[Rough Hewn]

In the picture of your car, the mill is missing the top bar?
Is this because of the winch handle?

[Rough Hewn]

Hand filing will take a while to learn well,
Hyper skip or full skip chains work well with long bars.
I can probably hand sharpen a 84" hyperskip quicker than I could change the chain. As they have so few teeth.
[emoji106]

[Rough Hewn]

But a 48" full compliment takes 20-40 minutes [emoji51]