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DuncanH

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About DuncanH

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  1. Depending on what exactly you're after, whether you have a beard, how hot your work place gets, you could go for a simple mask which has replaceable filters such as https://www.arco.co.uk/products/126002/56580/3M+7500+Silicone+Half+Mask+Respirator?BV_SessionID=@@@@1295888363.1550758186@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccceadhhmemdhklcflgcefkdfggdhhi.0 It can take P3 filters for particles (wood/mdf) as well as catridges for gas and vapour, plus a combined one I believe. I used for years back for dust and it worked well and later for gas (simple spraying finish in the shed) and again it worked well. The only problem is that if you have a beard then getting a decent seal is tricky/impossible. They can also get a bit hot. You can use separate ear defenders with them and they're relatively cheap. The other option is a powered respirator. I have no experience of the Trend one but the 3m Versaflo is fantastic, although rather pricey. It does dust particles without a problem and apparently you can get a combined dust and fume filter cartridge (which should do petrol). I have the optional ear defenders on mine and they work very well. If you're patient you can get a bargain on ebay - mine was unused and I think it was around £150.
  2. DuncanH

    Sanding

    If you apply too much pressure whilst sanding you can get heat checks with a lot of woods - that might have caused all those small cracks. Once they're there you almost certainly won't get rid of the by sanding. What grit did you start at and how did you move up? By the look of some of those marks you'll need to start at 80 or possibly go back to a gouge/scraper. When you can't see most of the marks move to 120, then 180. Then finer. Only move to the next grit when you can't see the marks from the sanding previous one. Sorry if this is going over stuff you already know.
  3. We have a small wood which was planted up 8 years ago as a coppice rotation with blocks of hazel and blocks of elm. The reason for the elm was to provide food for a population of white letter hairstreak butterflies which we know are nearby. Elm is their only food source. The plan was to coppice the elm regularly to keep them low and hopefully avoid DED. We've had a few years of coppicing but haven't yet got through each block once. This summer I noticed some of the top tips of the larger trees (just big enough to be splitting their tree tubes) were dying off - loosing leaves and snapping. Obviously my first thought was DED so I read up on it when I got back and on the next visit I cut down a tree (maybe 8cm diameter at the base) which was showing the symptoms. Removing bark and scraping back a little I found what appears to be fungal growth in most of the areas I checked - near the base and at various points along the tree. When I looked online the tips dying and snapping appears to be a common first symptom of DED referred to as Shepherd’s crooks. What I've seen below the bark doesn't exactly match photos I've seen online for DED but perhaps I've found it in the early stages, or maybe it's something else. Yesterday I cut down 10+ trees in one small area and every one I checked except 1 had marks below the bark - some of them were over 10cm diameter and some were no more than 5cm. Height wise they ranged from around 2m to over 4m. None of them had the dark streaking which is shown in most symptom lists and none had obvious marks/dark rings when I looked at the freshly cut surfaces. I didn't see any signs of beetle activity in the trees I cut. So, is this DED or could it be something else? Either way, it looks as though we'll need to cut the elm blocks as a priority over this winter. Thanks for any help Duncan photos attached...
  4. There's one available in the US but you'll need a transformer http://conestogaworks.com/woodburners.html I like the idea of the foot operated power switch so you can keep your hands free to use the kit, but I'm still not keen on trying it myself
  5. If anything I'd say they made my earphone fit more closely to my ears than when I use them with the supplied rubber fittings - I've never been able to get those to fit well and stay in the ear. The original earphones I got were Sennheiser in-ear and Boots had never fitted to those before so they sent them away during the process to make sure the fit was a good one. Since then I've used them with lots of cheap replacement ear-phones and they almost all use the same fitting. When you get them you could also request a set of plain ear plugs from the same mold.
  6. I got some custom made ones at the opticians in Boots. They can make them just as noise blockers or they can make them to fit in ear headphones which come with the rubber inserts. If you take your headphones in with you they can check the fit. It's an odd experience having silicon injected into your ear canal to get the custom fit but mine fit well and I'd happily wear them all day. Once the silicon is set they send it away to produce the ear plugs. Price was less than £100 and I've had them for over 6 years
  7. I did a clearing job in a SSSI before some road repairs could take place after a landslip, just below a layby. In a single stretch maybe 40m x 5m I found 20+ tyres, some with rims, bags of sawdust, empty gas canisters, bottles, shoes. I was clearing head high bracken and you couldn't see far into it so it was clear a couple of metres then remove litter then move to the next couple of metres. Really tedious! And one of the reasons it was SSSI was because of adders and slow worms so as I was working I had to be careful not to hit any. We ended up moving 6 or 7 adders (catching them in buckets was fun!) and dozens of slow worms. The job spec was brushcut about 5cm off the ground, do a fingertip search of the area for reptiles then strim to ground level. When they rebuilt the road they left out the layby
  8. A few times now I've used powdered metals with thin super glue. Aluminium, brass and bronze. Fill the hole and drip the glue one it. You can build up in layers to make sure the stuff at the bottom gets enough glue and if the hole is really deep you can pack out with other material (sawdust even). I've also experimented with coffee grounds but preferred the look of metal
  9. If it was down to me, or my own saw that's what I'd do, possibly getting it ported as well (I think that's the term, for getting more power out of it). The boss has decided to get the dealer to do it as we get a good discount off them when buying new equipment and supplies so good to keep in with them.
  10. We recently had a problem getting out 660 to start. Took it to the dealer and he guessed with a couple of pulls that it probably some serious work, due to water in the fuel. He took it out back, tipped some of fuel into a jar and brought it back out. Within a minute there was an obvious, fairly deep layer of water in the jar. They've had to deal with a growing number of machines down to problems with ethanol in fuel. Not necessarily caused by old fuel (we get through it fairly quickly), but a growing problem caused by the amount of ethanol in petrol these days - apparently it draws water from the atmosphere into the fuel and he claimed he could cause it to happen within half an hour just by blowing a fan across the top of some fuel. We've always used the cheaper Stihl red 2 stroke oil but he suggested moving on to the green Super as it has an additive which will slow down this water production. Another option if Aspen or Stihl's Motomix - an expensive way to go (although cheaper than costly work on a 660!).
  11. Meindl, Scarpa, Lowa, Altberg, Salomon, Berghaus..... Any of the decent brands should be good and last. Just depends on the shape of your foot as to which fits best. Don't buy online and try to find a decent shop which does proper fitting. A decent shop will also let you wear them round the house and take them back if you decide they don't fit. If you can't get a good fit Altberg do custom boots, although expensive and there's often a 6 month waiting list. Also try on at the end of the day as your feet will be up to 1/2 size bigger, possibly even more. Best pair I ever had were German army mountain boots (possibly Lowa), unused, bought for £100 from a surplus store
  12. About time too. There are some products which haven't been banned, mainly ones which are applied and left on for some time before being washed off - they'll be added to the ban in the near future. There are natural alternatives such as crushed nut shell husks so perhaps we'll start seeing more of them now
  13. Well that was easy enough. Took less than a minute! Thanks
  14. I hadn't even noticed the 'Today's posts' or the view 'Unread Posts' options. Having just tried them I don't like them and don't think they'd be much use to me. I only check 4 or 5 of the forums which are of use to me and even then usually only on a Monday or Friday, and probably not every week. Finding relevant posts amongst the unfiltered lists of posts on those 2 pages is more time consuming than going in to each forum.
  15. I've browsed without feeling the need to make an account for several years now but I've just signed up so I can offer a few suggestions. Please provide a way to hide avatars when reading the forum. An example of why it's needed: go to this thread where there are a lot of posts with very little text. On the monitor I have at work I can only just see 2 posts without scrolling. It would be nice to choose how many posts I see per page so I don't have to click to the next page as frequently. At the start of a forum with several pinned posts how about minimising them in some way unless there's a post to them. The General Chat forum has 6 pinned posts, most of which haven't changed in several years yet I still have to scroll past them every time I go in there. I was going to post last week about the space taken up by graphics at the top level but found the option to display forums in a traditional table view rather than a grid. Is anyone ever going to use the grid view as the graphics seem kind of pointless. Thanks for the good work

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