gonger

Hello, 5 months ago i started with my buddy a tree felling business. I have a lot of saw's from milling and my milling trailer. Now we want to work more efficiently with a Wood Chipper and also a lot of custemers were asking for a stump removal. So now we want to invest. Now we are unsure what to get. What do you think about those Stump Grinders? Dosko 337: Baumstumpffräse Dosko 337 WWW.EBAY.DE Finden Sie Top-Angebote für Baumstumpffräse Dosko 337 bei eBay. Kostenlose Lieferung für viele Artikel! Rayco Stump Grinder: https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/rayco-stubbenfraese-wurzelfraese-baumstumpffraese-honda-gx-rechnung/1422798491-84-9464 This are the ones, wich i found used on ebay. Now to the chipper: I found a used and modified Jansen GTS 1500 E: https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/jansen-gts-1500-e-gartenhaecksler-schredder-hacker-haecksler/1555899633-87-5911 Is there any other model to look for with a small budget? We only want to invest 4.000€. Baumstumpffräse Dosko 337 WWW.EBAY.DE Finden Sie Top-Angebote für Baumstumpffräse Dosko 337 bei eBay. Kostenlose Lieferung für viele Artikel!

I dont have that of a big problem with that. It is also the sharpening and chainging time of the chains. And no i am not getting a 881, because my Cannon Super Bar is in D009. Just not sure if i will get a 3/8 107cm Bar if i should do skip chains or not?

Guys, just wanted to know if someone had tested the diffrence between 3/8 and 3/8LP in fuel consumption and cutting time?

Sry, for my bad english i am from germany... Of course i had to change the drive sprockets between 3/8LP and 3/8. My question was for my entire milling setup. My inventory in milled lumber is 100 square Meters big. I am asking, because it is difficult to change the drive sprocket on the Husqvarna 3120. At the moment i have to wait for the saw to completely cooled down and then i put a rope inside the cylinder to block the piston to remove the clutch. So it would make more sense to drive only 3/8 on my entire setup. Just wanted to know how much slower it is and if there is a big diffrce in fuel consumption??? If there is any?

Hey guys, after the last contact with big metal i think i ruined my GB 107cm 3/8 LP bar. I mill with my Husqvarna 3120. My second bar is 60" Cannon Super Bar in 3/8. So i thought to switch up from 3/8 LP to a normal 3/8 bar(GB Titanium) for the benefit of not having to change the rim anymore. Is there a big diffrence in cutting time and fuel consumtion between 3/8 LP and normal 3/8 ??

It's a Maxx Chainsaw Grinder.

Mounted my 230V Chainsaw Grinder to my Milling Trailer. Works brialliantly for sharpening on the jobsite.

I just got a china mill and then bought some aluminium profiles 30x30 mm and cut it to the right size. At the moment i am building a second mill for my 60" Cannon Super bar. The most importent part for me was to drill trhough the bar and cut a thread into my mill so i could bolt the bar to the mill for a faster chain changing process.

Yes they are common in this size. This one was dead, so it got felled and i got the stump for free.

Milled up some Elm Wood in the garden of the old theatre in my home town. Very nice wood, but a lot of nails in the first bit...

Of course i have my own kit. Just dont want to mill wood wich is not worth it. Looked at some pictures from google on sorbus. Dont think that it is one.

Hey guys dont know what kind of wood this is. Can you help me with identifying? Owner says it is Maple. Felled 2 Monts ago. But isnt it with Maple, that it gets some ugly stains from the sugar?

Hey guys, i am curious if i did it right. This picture shows a beech end grain cookie slab. I applied Anchorseal to both sides. Now after 2 Monts these black dots are appearing. Should i sand of the anchorseal, or is this normal and going to planed away fast after drying?

I know that its not a good deal. But it's kind of 70/30 for the big stuff for me. And i also can choose what i want. On the smaller logs we do 50/50. I am doing this milling job, because i wanted to mill the big beech. Just need some very good slabs for the start of my woodworking business. Worked there for 2 weeks with some days off in between. Pictures are following. In the last days, i had problems with my 60" Cannon Bar mill. It did not cut. Had to refill mid cut. And the saw was just screaming for help. Still pushed it trough. Today i tried my new chain. It's a full chisel chain "hyper skip", but i took down half of the teeth to make it similar to the oregon hyper skip. Cut's very good and smooth until i've hit 4 nails in one slab. After the thick one(3mm), the chain was very dull: Still got some nice peaces of one other peace: And for full chisel "hyper skip" 10° it cuts very smoothly. Just a quick resharpening is required. But very quickly with a 2 in 1 sharpener: After that the 3120 died... Poweres on, but runs like shit and cut on 20% power. So i stopped and switched to my "backup" saw: Than i realised that the backup saw requires shorter chains since it was no designed for D009. So i had to switch to my 3/8 lp bar. After 40cm inside the log i hid some big metal and it was not going any forward. So this piece is going to be end up as firewood:

Milled up some maple for the first time. The 3120 went trough like butter. Since i have the deal to get the logs for free, i have to share 50% of the slabs. So i got 6 stored up outside my workshop.

Its for the new Cannon SuperBar 60" . Ok. Than i am going to try out the Bio Oil, what i am not using anymore for my chainsaws.

Hello, i am just curious if i can use water for the auxilery oiler? Or just some less expensive fluid? Has someone experience in this? And would i you enlarge the hole of the bolt, like shown in this video ?

Ok. Then i am going to mill those up and post some pictures. Maybe some maple into square stock for table legs.

Ok. Then i am going to mill the first one definitively. But what about the other ones? Worth milling?

Hey guys, is it worth it to mill this logs? Someone have any clue what kind of wood this is on the first picture? Field Maple or Ash Maple? The other pictures show sycamore maple, right? Read about maple, that i have to store it vertically, so that the sugar is not building any stains.

Like i said i nevever milled with the "new" setup. If i find it helpfull i am going to replace it with aluminium pipe. But really the mill is working great without it. Dont see the point.

No it's like i said. I had to extend the Mill from 90 cm to 107 cm. At that time i just had no pipe. The one wich is attached right now is from an old broom wich i found i my new apartment. With the setup wich is bolted trough i never milled. So i cant tell you if there is any diffrence. I think no. I could take a lot of milling jobs right now, but i am still working on my trailer. Still have to make some boxes for the outside of my trailer. Like on a trekking bike. Few months ago i had a post here, what would be the best chain for this set up. The problem is, that my seller can not offer a hyper skip in 3/8. But i wanted a 3/8 bar, so it cuts less material and should be in theory faster then .404. So i bought 3 chains: 1x RM063-3/8185RMX Stihl (10° full comp) 1x 75EXJ185E (Oregon 30° Full Skip) 1x RM063-3/8185HM Stihl ( 30° full comp) So i just will see how it goes with the Full Skip. If i like it i am just going to modify the Stihl 30° one by grinding the teet out from myself. Since it is cheaper than let it made custom made for me.

At first i bought this china mill in 90 cm. Was originally planning to go with 90 cm GB Lp bar. But as it arrived i sent it back and bought the 107cm one. The China Mill i could not send back, so is swapped out the profiles for as shown aluminium profiles. The best part about this, that if want to extend the mill, i just can swap out the profiles and attach longer ones. (bought 150cm long ones for the Cannon Super bar) Then i got rid of the clamping mechanism by welding an steel plate to the upper part of the clamping mechanism for beeing able to cut a longer thread into it. Then i attached a winch of ebay and it was done. I mean i didn't milled that much logs. But i would be happy to mill so much wood in one day. That's why i am optimizing everything to be able to do that. As i was cutting the oak you see in my profile picture it took me 4 days for 2 logs 2.5m x 90-95cm. After 3-4 cuts i was sharpening with the grandberg sharpener. But this definetively screwed up my chains. And on day 3 one of my saws didn't pump any oil. So i couldn't use it anymore. The saw is a Dolmar 9010 with 90cc 4.9kw (Dolmar is sold to Makita). After that job i sold one 9010 and bouht the Husqvarna 3120. So my milling saw is the 3120 and the cross but saw is going to be the Dolmar. And if the 3120 dies i can still mill with the Dolmar. For me it is really hard and too much fiddeling to do that. I mean i better change the chain in 5 min and then spent some time in drinking tea and doing a break. But now i met a decision. I am going to drill in the sword and just see how i can extend the mill cover of the nose or just make a new one...

What about drilling in the rivet? This should clamp the Bar with the nose sproket. About sharpening Chains in the field. When i first started milling i realised very fast, that the milling itself is not the time breaker. It's fiddeling with the Mill and all the other stuff. So i thougth to myself, that i need to optimize all these processes. This starts with a ratchet for most of the bolts and ends with an easy solution for loading up the milled lumber. I tried also the Grandberg Sharpener, but also this takes to much time on these chains. (30min for me) And like i said i stopped the time for changing the chain on a bolt on design and did it in 5 min. Also a big problem for me, was the day before the milling. I need so many diffrent things what i need to take with me. So that's how my Car looked when i drove to my last job. After 2 days of milling the whole trunk looked like if there just exloded a bomb. Also i dont want to clean my car anymore after these jobs. (takes min. 2 hours) Thats why i want outsource all the milling stuff to my trailer. Currently i am welding it together: Going to attach a 12 V winch and some boxes on the side for storage. And like i said. My goal is to get the milling job done in one day (for example 2.5 Meter x 90 cm) and load it up to here:

@Daniël Bos Dont want to drill there. I think than the underside of the Mill is going to interfere with the chain. Also i think, that this is going to increse the sagging of the bar, when milling. @Rough Hewn As wanted, there are some pictures of my mill: So you would definitively drill on the #3? Would it also be an option to drill in the small rivet, on the right side of #1?