What do you use to store logs by the fire?

[difflock]

Edited January 24, 2020 by difflock

[difflock]

I cant seem to enter text when editing a post with images in?

Anyway, that box has lasted all autumn and winter so far, and it might even have done a turn last year, it gets taken to the log pile to be refilled, and is the perfect size to be carrying with the simple cut-out handle-holes provided. I keep a couple in reserve, snaffling any I see free in Tescos.

[Ashes_Firewood]

Wicker baskets for logs and kindling. Lined the log basket with clear plastic to stop the small stuff falling out

[JohnK]

This works well with builders rubble bucket lining it and then set on castors

[astra25]

I'm just starting to build my fireplace at the minute I'm gona have log storage on both sides full hight this pic will help you get the idea.

[openspaceman]

53 minutes ago, astra25 said:

I'm just starting to build my fireplace at the minute I'm gona have log storage on both sides full hight this pic will help you get the idea.

Have you considered using the thermal mass of all the masonry to complement the heating?

[astra25]

Just now, openspaceman said:

Have you considered using the thermal mass of all the masonry to complement the heating?

I'm not sure what you mean?

[openspaceman]

12 hours ago, astra25 said:

I'm not sure what you mean?

Many new stove installations into what was an open fireplace use a flexible flue liner which is then back filled with  a bulk insulating material, like perlite or vermiculite. This keeps the column of exhaust gases rising up the chimney hot. This is done mostly to prevent condensates from forming and running back down.

 

You can see the effect in some old houses where a coal fire has been replaced by a wood stove and the thing has been left smouldering , often with damp wood being used. The line of the flue is marked by a black patch where the pyroligneous acidic condensate has seeped through the brickwork, often damaging the mortar.

 

If you have a decent masonry flue then you can have good resistance to this happening and the high flue temperature heats the flue and brickwork as the fire is blazing. As the fire burns down to embers the brickwork is still warm and continues giving off this heat to the house.

 

Taken to the extreme is the masonry stove which  is charged up with the whole load of logs for the day and fired off flat out for a few hours and then damped down once there is no wood left, the house then heated by the masonry with multiple flue passages. The same concept is used in soapstone stoves.

 

I doubt may existing houses have the space for a masonry stove but some of the principles can be used with a traditional chimney breast.

 

In my 1862 built house I had the chimney relined with cement  many years ago, I fire my stove  so that there is always a good active flame until only a bed of charcoal remains when I cut the primary air.

 

The whole chimney breast is at blood heat when I retire as is the one in the floor above. This keeps the house warm till morning.

[astra25]

Very informative I understand what you mean now. For me personally I want the log burner for more of the luxury rather than a necessity to heat the house.

I'm going to be fitting water underfloor heating and radiators upstairs iv got 120mm PIR insulation in the roof apex and each floor will be fully filled with Rockwool for sound and heat so each room should hold it's heat.

My understanding is for example if I were to heat the house all day at say 20° some of the heat gets socked into the masonry and once the heating is off it will continue putting that heat back into the house or at holding it for a piriod of time. Which is simular to what you have been saying with the flue etc.

[astra25]

On 07/02/2020 at 20:16, astra25 said:

I'm just starting to build my fireplace at the minute I'm gona have log storage on both sides full hight this pic will help you get the idea.

No where near finished but brickwork is done.

Logs will get stored in both sides.