Changing the rim/sprocket and using old chains on new bars...

[Rob D]

It keeps cropping up - folks tend to buy a new chain when it stops cutting or it is worn out, a new bar when the same happens or fancy a change - and a new drive rim/sprocket rarely.

 

If you buy a new bar and are in doubt - change the drive rim + don't use old chains on a new bar - even if 'only got it a few days ago' or 'the saw is new'. A used rim wears the chain which wears the bar. Together they all wear together - buy a new bar and run an old rim/sprocket and old chain likely you will wear the bar inside the rails and on the rail surface, much faster.

 

If you have to - keep an old chain for when the bar is 6 months or so + then it's not so important. But with the high spec Sugi/Tsumura/Cannon bars the tolerances are tight - a slightly burred chain [on the drive links] will quickly gouge out your new bar and cause overheating to boot. It's a negative saving.

 

Sometimes a chain will de rail - and often this really burrs up the drive links - putting this on and using an stump to force the chain to start turning then revving the saw to get it running is going to knacker that bar and drive sprocket rapidly. And then put a new bar on - you will wear that bar out x5 as quickly!

 

 

You're better off running things longer and then changing everything together than replacing things one at a time.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Rough Hewn]

Quality.
Nice one Rob.
[emoji106]

[Rob D]

And I fully admit when I was full time on the tools I was one of the worst offenders!! Esp hedge reduction and having the chain de rail... I'd just get it back on there and run it until it cut again. I think fair enough - but when you do come to replace stuff replace it together.

[spudulike]

Good luck with this, from what I see, the saws generally only come in when they are totally knackered or someone wants their saw modified.

Preventative maintenance was something that went out the window when I left my 22 years of manufacturing!!

I am amazed that if you have say a top handle, 50cc and 70cc saw, that you would not get them serviced regularly if you haven't got backup saws but there you go and I am genuinely NOT looking for more work.

[Mat K]

Very good info thank you very much Rob! What book are those pages from?

[Rob D]

On 09/10/2019 at 22:49, Mat K said:

Very good info thank you very much Rob! What book are those pages from?

It's the oregon maintenance manual http://en.oregonproducts.com/pro/pdf/maintenance_manual/ms_manual.pdf

[Rob D]

On 09/10/2019 at 19:45, spudulike said:

Good luck with this, from what I see, the saws generally only come in when they are totally knackered or someone wants their saw modified.

Preventative maintenance was something that went out the window when I left my 22 years of manufacturing!!

I am amazed that if you have say a top handle, 50cc and 70cc saw, that you would not get them serviced regularly if you haven't got backup saws but there you go and I am genuinely NOT looking for more work.

 

Yep the tough part is when someone is determined to blame the gear ie. bar or chain - it can never ever be them. My opinion is - there is a chance it's the gear or there's a chance it's you. It's so counterproductive to buy a new bar and chain and then run that with a worn sprocket - such a waste of $$

[Ashes_Firewood]

I know this an old thread but came up when I was googling. Trying to get better at maintenance...

 

If I put a new sprocket on should I put a new bar and chain on or can I use the old bar and chain with the new sprocket? There's still plenty of life in the bar and chain.

[pleasant]

My advice would be to look at each of those items on an individual basis for excess wear and/or damage rather than a blanket automatic replacement. If a guy came in and asked us to replace a sprocket, he would be a bit miffed if when we handed it back we had automatically fitted a new bar and chain as a matter or course. We would only replace those additional items if they were worn beyond what we could consider efficient and importantly safe- and that would only be after contacting the customer to advise. In your case, I would do the same.

[Stere]

I actually have started hammering my worn bar rails closed to get more life out of worn old bars & was surprised that it works  well.

 

In the USA they even sell   special toosl for doing it.

 

Chainsaw Bar Rail Tightening Repair Tool 100% STAINLESS STEEL, MADE IN AMERICA

WWW.EBAY.COM

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If you do any serious amount of chainsaw work you know bars get out of shape very quickly. This tool is designed to close...

 

 

Don't think its something thats done  much in the UK?

 

Wonder if shops in the USA offer it as a service?

 

 

Edited December 2, 2022 by Stere