Newbie Miller issues.

[SbTVF]

Hi all, had my first proper go at milling with an alaskan yesterday on a big old ash tree the inlaws had felled. Didn't want to just ring it up for firewood so I've borrowed an alaskan and got a 36" GB bar and 3/8 lo pro set up from chainsawbars. Running it on a spud ported 576xp, I know not really enough power but its only cutting  about 28-30" maximum with the alaskan so i thought it'd cope as it cut really well at the full 36" using a normal chain crosscutting.

Got set up really easily after watch some videos on youtube on how to the do that with a ladder and all the rest. First cut went beautifully smooth and straightforward. Second cut not so much... I kept the same chain on as it's brand new and I hit nothing, thought it would last more than 1 tank full of fuel? It was digging in and bogging every time I tried to move forward so progress was slow. I'm in no rush so would be happy for the saw to just chug away as it got near its capacity and go though it slowly but I can't imagine stopping and starting the cut all the time is any good for board quality at the very least.

 

I changed the chain and flipped the bar for cut 3. It was no better but got through it and the boards are surprisingly smooth still but obviously I don't want to be struggling like hell through the whole rest of the trunk when I go back next weekend. What can I try to make it better? Is my chain tension to slack/tight? Is the saw not oiling the bar enough? Should I put a sharpen on the chains so they're not so aggressive? I'd buy some skip chain but can't seem to find any in lo pro and don't much fancy ruining a good chain as an experiment by grinding cutters off.

 

Any help greatly appreciated.

[Rough Hewn]

That'll be hard ash.
How long has the tree been down?
I won't mill ash.
[emoji106]

[Conor Wright]

Usually the first cut is a little less strenuous on the saw as you are often not hitting heartwood or taking in the full width of the trunk.. with an underpowered setup this could lead you to think the chain had dulled slightly when you hit harder stuff.
Ash is far easier to mill fresh, it gets harder with age, this could also be a factor? Grit, included bark, dirty bark (ie roadside trees) can all be factors.
I have limited experience milling but have noticed that any little imperfection on the chain is accentuated far more than when crosscutting.
Maybe if you were to seesaw the saw through the wood so as not to be cutting the full width of the board at any one time? May have a detrimental effect on the finish of the board but I found it helps stop the saw bogging.. I've a standard 660 on a 42 inch bar so it's under pressure!

[lux]

That saw will have ample power for the job especially as it’s been ported. It’s most likely to be something very simple like how you are applying pressure to the saw and mill as it cuts. Very little forward pressure is required on larger cuts. Experiment as you use it and find out what’s best and comfortable for you.
You can buy little winch kits for a mill but I would say before purchasing one it’s best to get the feel of using the mill without one. Just a bit of trial and error as you go I’d say. It’s what learnings about.
You can always look at rob d’ website. Chainsaw bars. There is more than likely a video on there that covers mill set up and chain tension. I run mine a little slacker than normal but not slipping about as that will create other problems.

[SbTVF]

It's only been down maybe 6 weeks?

[Rough Hewn]

Go real slow. As long as you are moving forward it's ok.
Is the log flat? Lifting the start end a little bit helps as you mill downhill.
Sharpen the chain but don't touch the rakers might help.
[emoji106]

[Rough Hewn]

When I mill, I'm listening to the engine. There's a sweet spot between revving too high (not cutting) and too low (rakers too low)
You'll find it cuts fastest when you're barely pushing at all.
Look for "chainsaw lumber making"
By Will Maloff
Should be able to download a PDF. Great reading for millers of all levels.
[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

[Big J]

You have to keep a close eye on the air filter as the dust pickup by the chainsaw is must more rapid with milling. The powerhead is close to the floor, and the dust is far finer. Check and clean regularly.

 

Ash isn't great with a chainsawmill. It's hard and will vibrate the machine more than most species. Also, finer dust. 

 

Keep in mind that it's worth sharpening after every third cut as the cutting performance will deteriorate quickly. I'm talking about a tiny rub with the file (even worth doing after each cut with a low powered saw) and you'll get it down to under 60 seconds once practiced. That's easily 60 seconds you'll save in cut, with the commensurate saving in fuel, vibrations and fumes. 

[SbTVF]

Excellent advise guys thanks. I'll give it a go and report back. Got tonnes of beech and a few bits of oak and elm to play with too.

[Forest2Furniture]

If you think the Ash was hard going wait until you hit the Beech, it can be a git to chainsaw mill.

Mill it as soon as you can from being felled and sharpen chain after every cut. Good luck