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Rough Hewn

Today's milling

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Any reason for the reson for 0 degree or just personal preference? Im on 10 on my slabber

Cleaner even cut, less chatter.
Slightly slower in the cut, but far more accurate.
IMG_0380.jpg

I do use 10 degree chains on some commercial jobs for speed.
Depends on end use, most of what I cut is high end bespoke table tops.
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My thoughts are that any sawmill is a primary processor for timber. Cut as fast as practical for commercial output, allowing enough thickness, and once its dried,moved, and hairy grain has risen, plane it flat either with a thicknesser or manual/ powered planer. That's when it becomes a cabinet makers piece of timber. After sawmilling there's a whole heap of reactions that occur of which you really have minimal control. Why spend excessive time producing a fine finish on green wood when almost always you'll go back over it a dozen times to get it to perfection at the end?

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My thoughts are that any sawmill is a primary processor for timber. Cut as fast as practical for commercial output, allowing enough thickness, and once its dried,moved, and hairy grain has risen, plane it flat either with a thicknesser or manual/ powered planer. That's when it becomes a cabinet makers piece of timber. After sawmilling there's a whole heap of reactions that occur of which you really have minimal control. Why spend excessive time producing a fine finish on green wood when almost always you'll go back over it a dozen times to get it to perfection at the end?

I sell nearly all my Wood Green and fresh. Often it's sold the same week it's milled. So the presentation of the wood is paramount.
Washboard gouges put most clients off as its so much work, especially on huge boards to take down 5mm.
Sometimes I do use 10-15 degree top plate to cut faster if the client has specified over thickness for machining later.

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My thoughts are that any sawmill is a primary processor for timber. Cut as fast as practical for commercial output, allowing enough thickness, and once its dried,moved, and hairy grain has risen, plane it flat either with a thicknesser or manual/ powered planer. That's when it becomes a cabinet makers piece of timber. After sawmilling there's a whole heap of reactions that occur of which you really have minimal control. Why spend excessive time producing a fine finish on green wood when almost always you'll go back over it a dozen times to get it to perfection at the end?

I sell nearly all my Wood Green and fresh. Often it's sold the same week it's milled. So the presentation of the wood is paramount.
Washboard gouges put most clients off as its so much work, especially on huge boards to take down 5mm.
Sometimes I do use 10-15 degree top plate to cut faster if the client has specified over thickness for machining later.

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I sell nearly all my Wood Green and fresh. Often it's sold the same week it's milled. So the presentation of the wood is paramount.
Washboard gouges put most clients off as its so much work, especially on huge boards to take down 5mm.
Sometimes I do use 10-15 degree top plate to cut faster if the client has specified over thickness for machining later.
Yep. Makes sense for that situation.

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Got very wet, but it was worth it.



Nice Rough, You wana av a word with your wood supplier though, tell him to get up off his lazy ass and stop leaning against your trees, hes making em bent!

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Nice Rough, You wana av a word with your wood supplier though, tell him to get up off his lazy ass and stop leaning against your trees, hes making em bent!

I pay extra for those ones.
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