Stihl/Sugihara oiling issues

[Johnsond]

Hi Guys 

First off merry Xmas to all etc etc 

Doing some milling today just to get out of the house for a couple of hours, virtually new 880 and 42 inch  Sugihara bar with Oregon milling chain, timber to be milled was a piece of elm approx  32-34 inch diameter. Set up and initial milling went ok but pretty soon into the cut I noticed a couple of tiny sparks from chain and tone changed. Stopped milling and checked the the chain/bar noticed evidence of heat with bluing on leading edge of bar. I did a vertical cut at end of milling cut to remove the piece and check for steel etc but found nothing. Proceeded to strip and clean saw and bar, groove and oil ways were ok I ran the saw powerhead only and the oil flow was good ( Set at max) whilst I had bar off I used a burr grinder to slightly radius the face that goes onto the oil feed on the saw just as a precaution and to allow better oil flow. Everything was reassembled and ran up. I offered bar end up to some new 4x2 to check for oil off bar end and found virtually zero oil spray. I've done plenty with a 661 with up to a 36 inch bar and never had an issue, just curious if from others experience is the 880 oiler ok for longer bars etc. I'll check tomorrow with vernier to make sure holes line up spot on for bar and powerhead oil ways. Bar and chain came from rob on this site. 

Cheers 

[Rough Hewn]

Possible problems:

How seasoned is the elm?

Super hard wood is a bitch.

Is the chain tensioned properly? A new chain will need to be re-tensioned several times.

Run the machine out of the wood for a minute, is it oiled?

Check the oiler is turned up?

Oil filter?

Oil hole on saw and check bar is clear of gunk.

 

I run a 48" bar on my 880 with a mill.

Seasoned ash is a killer, but otherwise no problems oiling.

Have you ran the sawhead without bar and cover to see if it oils?

Depth gauges? Are they at the correct height to teeth?

Oregon chains are good, but need a 10degree camber to sharpen correctly.

Different densities of internal wood can mess with the saw also.

Let us know how you get on.

[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

 

 

[Johnsond]

2 minutes ago, Rough Hewn said:

Possible problems:

How seasoned is the elm?

Super hard wood is a bitch.

Is the chain tensioned properly? A new chain will need to be re-tensioned several times.

Run the machine out of the wood for a minute, is it oiled?

Check the oiler is turned up?

Oil filter?

Oil hole on saw and check bar is clear of gunk.

 

I run a 48" bar on my 880 with a mill.

Seasoned ash is a killer, but otherwise no problems oiling.

Have you ran the sawhead without bar and cover to see if it oils?

Depth gauges? Are they at the correct height to teeth?

Oregon chains are good, but need a 10degree camber to sharpen correctly.

Different densities of internal wood can mess with the saw also.

Let us know how you get on.

 

 

Hi 

Cheers for the reply 

chain tension was spot on and this occurred within approx 20 inches of first cut commencing. 

I mentioned the steps I took in initial post ie cleaned oil holes and bar groove ran powerhead on its own to check oiler etc . Saw has literally done 2 hrs from new same with bar and chain was brand new out of box but I'll check that today. Regarding the wood being milled, it was a piece of dead elm  not super hard. The comparison I'm making is with the 661 and a 36 inch stihl bar 

I know how much oil I get off that and how it feels even when being pushed hard. I'll take a look at it again today and see how it goes. 

[Rough Hewn]

Hi 
Cheers for the reply 
chain tension was spot on and this occurred within approx 20 inches of first cut commencing. 
I mentioned the steps I took in initial post ie cleaned oil holes and bar groove ran powerhead on its own to check oiler etc . Saw has literally done 2 hrs from new same with bar and chain was brand new out of box but I'll check that today. Regarding the wood being milled, it was a piece of dead elm  not super hard. The comparison I'm making is with the 661 and a 36 inch stihl bar 
I know how much oil I get off that and how it feels even when being pushed hard. I'll take a look at it again today and see how it goes. 

STOP!!!!
It's a brand new saw.
Milling is really the worse thing a saw can do, it gets really hot.
You need to break your saw in gently.
For about 15-20 tanks.
Don't use it for milling until 10 tanks, or you risk damaging the piston and cylinder.
Just crosscut using short blasts.
I ran mine strapped to a pallet, with a strap on half throttle, turn off let it cool , for a few tanks.
There will be noticeable torque difference after about ten tanks which will improve gradually.
[emoji106]

So your saw head oils fine, but not onto the chain and bar?

[MattyF]

Have you got the bar clamped on the nose sprocket too tight or around the area with too much pressure can cause a few sparks!.
I do have and keep meaning to fit the auxiliary Oiler kit on the 880 when using the mill , have found it defiantly does not provide proficient flow as standard and blues bars and chains easily.

[Conor Wright]

Another vote here for the auxiliary oiler.. running a 42 inch bar on a 660, it needs it.. the much finer dust from the milling seems to soak up a lot of oil compared to big chip and a lot gets thrown off the nose, there comes a point where turning up the oil is of no benefit as it merely gets flung off the tip.. imo, I stand to be corrected on that one! also what oil are you using? Id go for a lighter oil on the auxiliary oiler. But I'm far from an expert.. in fact, I ate so much goose yesterday that it's a wonder I woke up at all.

[Macpherson]

Me too for aux oiler when wood is very hard and dusty dry, ....is the bark on the log ? ..could the source of the sparks be dirt or are they  from metal to metal.... it would have to be really hot.

 

I quite often see occasional small sparks when cutting or milling in the half light at this time of year...but not from the interface of bar and chain.......

 

Also +1 for running it in......perhaps the bar and chain as much as the saw. All the best.

[Johnsond]

Cheers for the replys guys. I think I'll give the aux oiler a go to tell truth. Regarding the running in the 661 has only ever milled  and has done hundreds of hours with no probs but I tend to back off and not run it flat out. 

880 was bought to do the same and has not been maxed out whilst working. Myself and the kids have spent a lot of yrs racing/rebuilding  2 and 4 stroke mx bikes/ quads so I'd say I have a fair degree of mechanical sympathy. But I'll take that on board ref the 880 and let it burn through a few tanks before using it again. There was no bark or dirt on the log. Sparks and noise was I'd say from a dry bar and chain. Clamps holding the bar are well away from groove and there was no deformity on bar when it was off saw. Oregon chain oil is what I'm using and have for years with no problems. 

[Rough Hewn]

Bit nasty, but get a jar of oil and an old paintbrush.
Paint the oil into the bar groove liberally.
If problem persists, it's really weird.
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[Forest2Furniture]

I've run 48" bars on my 880 without the need for an auxiliary oiler.

With the first sugi bar I had from Rob I greased the nose sprocket as per instructions, this however caused dust to get trapped and seized the sprocket solid, Rob kindly sent me a replacement nose sprocket free of charge.

I don't bother greasing the nose anymore and since then have had no problems.

 

Take the bar off and run the saw head with the oiler turned up full, the oil should p**s out, if it doesn't then there's a problem with the oil pump or it could be something as simple as the oil pick-up bar not being correctly located in the groove on the chain sprocket drum.