Sis-WHeel on Horse CHestnut?

[Rough Hewn]

Why not just use a standard gob cut to get the tree 90degrees from lean?
I do this regularly.

[carlos]

id say you will struggle to get a horse chestnut to fall 90 deg to the lean without a big digger giving it a yank,

has it also got a lean in the direction of the desired fall?

tirfors can be a bit slow on the pull too.

 

[Khriss]

A point on tirfors been slow pull - move yr sling lower down the tree , that speeds it up ! K

[Rough Hewn]

id say you will struggle to get a horse chestnut to fall 90 deg to the lean without a big digger giving it a yank,

has it also got a lean in the direction of the desired fall?

tirfors can be a bit slow on the pull too.

 

Just a saw and a couple of wedges if it's large.

Big gob cut, big big hinge then back cut, leaving extra wood on the side.

90 degrees yes.

91+degrees only with a winch.

 

Apparently 8feet up the tree from the winch anchor height is the absolute minimum for leverage.

Obviously the higher you go the more leverage.

[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

[Khriss]

Just now, Rough Hewn said:

Obviously the higher you go the more leverage....... but more sandwiches you consume powering that tirfors

 

[outinthewood]

The sis wheel works very well if the face is constructed correctly, It will only work correctly if it has room to hold on the side you wish to hold. So I tend to use traditional face put in the sis then finish with swanson angled in the direction you wish to "pull" the tree. It is in my view not going to work to well with a Chestnut...Did a very hard leaning Beech using this a few weeks ago and it worked very well. You are putting a second hinge in the face to put it simply, I use it on nasty edge stuff with good results. Now if you want to take a chance ...try a triple hinge ? The principle on that is it allows travel then slows the fall as it hits each "hinge" helping to pull the tree around. 

 

[Khriss]

8 hours ago, outinthewood said:

 ...try a triple hinge ? The principle on that is it allows travel then slows the fall as it hits each "hinge" helping to pull the tree around. 

 

That's just Witch Craft ! May we burn him ? * awaits Felix* k

[peatff]

2 hours ago, Khriss said:

That's just Witch Craft ! May we burn him ? * awaits Felix* k

Duck him first just to make sure

[Gary Prentice]

19 hours ago, peatff said:

I saw a video where the cutter put part of the gob back in the cut and achieved similar results with a lot less messing about and the stump was cut a lot nearer the ground

I've seen that  felling dead elms, by guys who had felled a lot of them. The tree starts to move to the lean, closing the gob until the part gob prevents it continuing further - which then turns the tree above. I've even seen the part gob placed after the tree starts to move, with the feller waiting for the optimal moment to send it off sideways. 

 

I think that you do need some fairly decent fibre length in the hinge, if it's 'punky' or short it tries to turn but then just falls to the weight of the crown/lean. 

Edited December 11, 2018 by Gary Prentice

[wyk]

4 hours ago, Gary Prentice said:

I've seen that  felling dead elms, by guys who had felled a lot of them. The tree starts to move to the lean, closing the gob until the part gob prevents it continuing further - which then turns the tree above. I've even seen the part gob placed after the tree starts to move, with the feller waiting for the optimal moment to send it off sideways. 

 

I think that you do need some fairly decent fibre length in the hinge, if it's 'punky' or short it tries to turn but then just falls to the weight of the crown/lean. 

You can get away with a lot of stuff on fir, and by learning on fir, if you use humbolts.  A dutchman behaves differently on a humbolt cut in that if it causes the hinge to break, the tree will still rotate about on the hard dutchman as it breaks the hinge, and change direction. On a traditional face cut, you risk a barber chair, and the tree doesn't want to rotate. If a humbolt hinge breaks a bit too soon, all the tree does is fall down since it can't possibly move back towards you. It also tends to fall away from the stump and yourself, sometimes by quite a margin. If there's a chance it may become entangled, the humbolt allows the tree to rotate before hitting the ground. It also allows you to chase the cut until the hinge is nearly gone for less fibre pull, and for specialty cuts. That's my main issue with a 'tradition' face cut, and why I rarely use them unless I don't want the tree to move/rotate before it hits the ground(like near equipment or buildings etc) - I prefer the tree to fall away from me, and have no chance of coming back at me on the stump.  Most mills in the US do not want the flare due to fibre direction and the fact fir is mainly used for construction. You're usually leaving the stump on the side of a mountain well away from equipment, and it is much easier on your back and far faster to cut above it. It's all about production in the US. So humbolts do not present an issue.

 

I put this swanson cut on an oak on our estate because it had a heavy lean over a berm. I didn't want the oak to hit the berm and then slide back towards me. This way, it fell forwards, hit the berm, then slid and rotated sideways away from me. If you look at the tree, you can see the front of it is facing upwards as it had spun 180*.

 

 

It was for firewood, so I definitely cut that stump down and took it all to the processor

 

Edited December 11, 2018 by wyk