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Chainsaw milling chain, which one ??


MattyF
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15 hours ago, MattyF said:
What is the finish like on the low pro?

Smoother and use a grinder to sharpen. Grateful to Rough hewn I think for recommending a grinder, quicker and saws cut perfectly straight as no bias from dominant hand

Edited by westphalian
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I have been using an Oregon skip chain on the mill and today swapped it out for a stihl ripping chain, what a difference!!
What chains have what characteristics in the world of chainsaw milling...my only doubt with the stihl was maybe it was a little rougher on finish but was nearly twice the speed! Are there any faster chains out there?
This is the finish of granberg lo pro. Its def quite fast atleast.20181210_113621.jpeg20181210_113628.jpeg20181210_124354.jpeg
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Depends on your power head.
I use .404 standard full chisel cross cutting chain from stihl, then I grind it to 0degrees for the 880
This gives the cleanest finish I've tried.
Also use standard 3/8 full chisel from stihl ground to 0degrees on my 661.
10-15 degrees gives a faster cut but more chatter so more lines and deeper on surface.
For me personally I'm after a clean finish for clients.
Depth gauges are so important with milling.
Different heights for different densities and widths.
IMG_0380.jpg
Cedar 1m diameter
[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

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14 minutes ago, Rough Hewn said:

Depends on your power head.
I use .404 standard full chisel cross cutting chain from stihl, then I grind it to 0degrees for the 880
This gives the cleanest finish I've tried.
Also use standard 3/8 full chisel from stihl ground to 0degrees on my 661.
10-15 degrees gives a faster cut but more chatter so more lines and deeper on surface.
For me personally I'm after a clean finish for clients.
Depth gauges are so important with milling.
Different heights for different densities and widths.
IMG_0380.jpg
Cedar 1m diameter
emoji106.pngemoji106.pngemoji106.png

Damn! Thats a super clean cut!

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Just now, westphalian said:

how long before you become proficient? I've been doing it most weekends for 2 years now  and still not confident, still learning each time with the Logosol M8

I find there is next to no comparison between Alaskan Milling and using the M8. If you're still not confident with a Logosol after 2 years Id suggest leaving the Alaskan well alone. 

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Listen to the engine, it should sing about 10-11krpm.
Any higher or lower and it's not helping the saw.
You shouldn't need to push hard, just gently guide the mill along.
Avoid seesawing try keep the saw and mill 90degrees to the trunk.
With really gnarly lumpy irregular trunks it's more difficult.
Also once past midway I find the vertical depth bar likes to jam into soft bark and sapwood, so heaving it out and along can leave marks.
Having every tooth and depth gauges set on a grinder really helps to keep vibrations down and cut smoothly.
I've heard good reports about hyper skip but I've not tried it yet.
Also if you haven't' already get several different size ratchet spanners.
[emoji106][emoji106][emoji106]

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Love seeing these pics of your cut wood pieces with the grains and growing rings/lines, shifts where knotty etc, think its ace! Wouldnt av a chuffing clue how to go about it, but intrigued all the same, and becoming more and more nosey towards it all [emoji6] keep the pics and spiel coming guys, top notch! Defo need to learn more about sharpening chains too!

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I have just received my new Granburg Mill and it has arrived with a Hypre skip chain.
I am going to make up 2 other chains up from my older chains Oregon 27R's, leave one standard and the other i was thinking of cutting some of the teeth and leader off (maybe cut 3 or 4 off between) has anyone else done this? i have been advised if i am carful and use a thin blade and dont let the metal of the chain get hot it should be ok.

 

spoke to Rob D at APF when i was running 2x 075's on a 4ft mill and he didnt think i need to mess about with the amount of power i had.

 

new set up is a ms880 and a ms650 on a 5ft cut. 

 

any comment welcome.

]

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