top friction

[stihlmadasever]

3 hours ago, Mick Dempsey said:

Ok, see if this makes sense.

 

Picture 1. Monkey has thrown the rope with the crab through the fork of the branch he’s going to self lower. He then brings the rope back to a handy stub, goes around the branch, then the stub a couple of times to lock it securely.

 

Picture 2. He makes the cut and let’s the branch drop safely (no running, it drops and stays)

he can then stow the saw undo a couple of loops and lower it to the groundy.

 

 

 

 

Mick im afraid im gonna have to charge you for using images of me without my consent...

Fiver and some french fancies will do the trick me finks

[Mick Dempsey]

Put some trousers on first.

[kevin bingham]

for me, the main advantage of the rig n wrench is the ability to lift loads and lower them with control.  I am unconcerned with the loads at the rigging point or on the tree as a benefit of Ariel rigging. I mean it could be a benefit but one that has never crossed my mind.  my rigging points and equipment should be strong enough that 2x or even 3x should not matter.    I personally like more rope in the system than anything. especially for negative rigging.  however,  the ability to tip tie pieces and raise them has been an absolute game changer to my rigging..  as for adjustability of the wrench the best method I've found is change ropes.  if your doing a pruning go with a 11 mm double braid, it will give you moderate friction but don't expect to take big peices.  if your going for a larger removal go for a fat 16 stand.  why would you be taking small chunks anyway?  for going bigger I change it into a double whip set up that also doubles the pulling ability.  being able to tip tie prices in tight quarters with wires and rooves around is awesome.  if your doing a huge removal, bring out the grcs.

[kevin bingham]

this is a good example of the the way we roll with the rig n wrench.  double whip set up