Rope abrasion protection ?

[Daniël Bos]

You think you can do these things Nemo, but you can't!...

[sime42]

Ollie;- ignore the Troll-Creatures that have been trying to put you off. There's no reason why you shouldn't have a play around in your own trees. As long as there is no possibility of harming anyone else around you then there is no problem. You are entirely responsible if anything bad did happen and I'm sure you were aware of this before you decided to try it. Our culture in this country is far too risk averse already, I'm surprised that some on here are echoing that. There is obviously no substitute for experience but as someone else said;- the basic concepts of tree climbing/surgery "are not rocket science" at the end of the day.

Plenty of people even free climb trees without falling out, we are not that different from other primates after all. (I'm not suggesting that anyone does this by the way! I used to as a kid and growing up. No way I would do it now though, it would be extremely dangerous and most times impossible I reckon if you were trying to work and use tools.)

If you were asking for advice in order to profit from your activities then I agree with the Trolls that we as trained, qualified and experienced arborists should NOT be encouraging you. But you're clearly not so there's nothing wrong with us giving advice and opinions. Maybe this is a case of "knowledge is power, hence let's keep it to ourselves and fiercely guard it". I don't think that's very fair. We should all share knowledge, experience and opinions:- that's how we learn and also the whole point of this forum, surely. 

Anyway, we digress..........

I agree that some kind of friction saving device is a great idea, and actually almost a must if you're going to be moving around and up and down a lot from one anchor point in the tree. From the point of view of protecting the tree, reducing your fatigue and enjoying yourself. I am pretty sure that reducing friction at the anchor also shares the load more equally between both sides of the rope if using the doubled-rope-technique as well. 

I would go one step further than the cambium saver and use a pulley as well, attached via a karabiner. That really increases mobility. Though if you do try that then you need to have complete confidence in your friction hitch as that becomes the only braking action in the whole system. 

Have fun, but stay safe! 

 

 

[Steve Bullman]

Well said, all of it 

[Olly47]

Thank you “sime42” for your encouraging words.

 

It is nice to read comments about using a bit common sense, using ones own judgment, and not rubbishing us non professionals.

I am one who has free climbed trees for many years into old age and a few years ago became more conscious of my safety.

So, when I use srt I have ascenders, a descender, and backup friction hitch on a seperate line.

I am going to try a sliding fall arrester so I dont have to keep moving the hitch.

Also use a backup safety line when using spikes where possible.

I do only use a pruning saw aloft and maybe a bushmans if needed.

 

Reference to the friction question, it is the abrasion on the rope I was thinking of to prolong its life.

I am not bothered about the trees. I dont fancy the strap and ring type of savers as there must be a lot of strain and strength reduction on the rope from the narrow metal rings. It is the rubbing of the rope on the crotch or branch of the tree I was wondering about. The tube type of thing going over the rope looks ok but is there an easier way to do this?

 

I would still like some more info on my “weird spikes” query.

Just go to YouTube and search with 20160914GoProH4.

(Look at device FR-100.)

 

Olly47.

Edited September 25, 2017 by Olly47

[Steve Bullman]

Not quite sure what to say about those!

 

 

[Marula]

[emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji23][emoji1360][emoji1360][emoji1360][emoji1360] Good on you Olly, trees simply love spikes, it air-rates their "inner whatsits" when pruning.
As you were lads, us "Trolls" will let you take it from here.

[Olly47]

In my couple of acres of sycamore, ash, willow, chestnut, elm, birch, etc. over the last 40 years the only problem I have had was Dutch elm disease, and this was before using spikes.

In my humble opinion, the tree attackers are not waiting patiently for me to spike holes "to aerate their inner whatsits", they get on quite well without my help. How many ancient carvings, nails, fencing wires are there in the bark of healthy trees?

Trees also get naturally damaged all the time without having their wounds treated. 

My pruning is for safety reasons.

[Gary Prentice]

7 hours ago, Steve Bullman said:

Not quite sure what to say about those!

 

 

They're different?

[Gary Prentice]

33 minutes ago, Olly47 said:

In my couple of acres of sycamore, ash, willow, chestnut, elm, birch, etc. over the last 40 years the only problem I have had was Dutch elm disease, and this was before using spikes.

In my humble opinion, the tree attackers are not waiting patiently for me to spike holes "to aerate their inner whatsits", they get on quite well without my help. How many ancient carvings, nails, fencing wires are there in the bark of healthy trees?

Trees also get naturally damaged all the time without having their wounds treated. 

My pruning is for safety reasons.

Can you post some photos of your pruning?

[Marula]

In my couple of acres of sycamore, ash, willow, chestnut, elm, birch, etc. over the last 40 years the only problem I have had was Dutch elm disease, and this was before using spikes.
In my humble opinion, the tree attackers are not waiting patiently for me to spike holes "to aerate their inner whatsits", they get on quite well without my help. How many ancient carvings, nails, fencing wires are there in the bark of healthy trees?
Trees also get naturally damaged all the time without having their wounds treated. 
My pruning is for safety reasons.

My educated and professional opinion is at odds with your humble opinion.
I can however see where you are coming from, with further explanation and or education via one of Shigo's books it might help you understand tree biology and physiology a bit better.