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Forst ST6 Hydraulic oil leak


Thesnarlingbadger
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Noticed hydraulic oil leaking from the filler cap area of my st6 today. It was running all for about 2 hours straight so pretty warmed up. Then did another half hour stint with it this afternoon and it leaked again. The level of the oil is still fairly high but obviously going down.

What could be the cause of this? And the cure?All looks pretty normal.

I was going to give it more of a proper look over at the yard but by the time I got back lighting was to poor. It's done around 380 hours. And is a 2013 model.

Thanks

 

 

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Right so I've got water in the hydraulic system. Bummer. Now I've spoke to the good people at redwood and I'm going to have to drain the hydraulic system and replace the pump and filter. Now I'm waiting to hear back to order these parts (may have to ring up Monday morning).

Luckily I don't need the chipper till Friday as I'm freelance climbing for another company till then but I need to know if I'd be able to sort this by then? How do I go about the whole process? Can I just drain the oil out, take the pump and filter off then replace and refill when the parts get to me?

I have to admit it's a little bit daunting but I'm determined to sort it if possible. I'll have evenings up until then to sort it.

Has anyone else taken this thing on or is it a real pain in the arse and not worth the hassle?

Any advice would be hugely appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

 

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Right so I've got water in the hydraulic system. Bummer. Now I've spoke to the good people at redwood and I'm going to have to drain the hydraulic system and replace the pump and filter. Now I'm waiting to hear back to order these parts (may have to ring up Monday morning).

Luckily I don't need the chipper till Friday as I'm freelance climbing for another company till then but I need to know if I'd be able to sort this by then? How do I go about the whole process? Can I just drain the oil out, take the pump and filter off then replace and refill when the parts get to me?

I have to admit it's a little bit daunting but I'm determined to sort it if possible. I'll have evenings up until then to sort it.

Has anyone else taken this thing on or is it a real pain in the arse and not worth the hassle?

Any advice would be hugely appreciated. Thanks in advance.

 

 

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why do you need to replace the pump if its still working

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I'm just going off redwood have said, I'm guessing it is where water has likely gotten in. :-(

 

 

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If it still has warranty best do as they say, else check pressure and if it runs OK I'd leave the pump. If the oil's in date and hours I'd be tempted to separate out the water and re use it.

 

How did water get in?

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If it still has warranty best do as they say, else check pressure and if it runs OK I'd leave the pump. If the oil's in date and hours I'd be tempted to separate out the water and re use it.

 

 

 

How did water get in?

 

 

Its not under warranty, I got it second hand 6 months or so back and it's a 2013 model. It's been a cracking machine otherwise.

The machine runs ok but yesterday I noticed the leak (not to bad) then today I started her up to see if the oil was that milky colour and it pissed out of the filler cap after 20 seconds of running idle, only had it running 30 seconds and there was at least 3 litres of oil/water that pored out.

I've got no idea how the water got in and have checked the hoses and seals and they all look fine. So it's either the pump like redwood said or possible the filler cap.

What I don't want to do is get it all running again and find out the water got in some place else as I only have a week to get it sorted.

 

 

 

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I've got no idea how the water got in and have checked the hoses and seals and they all look fine. So it's either the pump like redwood said or possible the filler cap.

What I don't want to do is get it all running again and find out the water got in some place else as I only have a week to get it sorted.

 

 

On the old firm our tr6s were prone to leak at the filler because people would fill them up to the top line in the sight glass. I found it best to have the oil just visible when cold. Oil expands when hot but also if contaminated it can foam, the bubbles increase the volume so it overflows.

 

Apart from getting in through the cap as a result of breathing hot moist air which then condenses it can suck air past the oil seals on the shaft. In very cold weather the depression at the pump inlet can be very low as it tries to suck in cold viscous oil. So warm the oil up a bit before you rev up. Dowty type pumps can destroy themselves very quickly from sucking a vacuum as the self compensating aluminium blocks on the side of the gears walk themselves into the steel gear.

 

If the machine is running ok I still wouldn't change the pump, even though it may be a bit damaged . Does the hydraulic tank have a drain bolt? If so I would leave it a few days with no use and then drain off a few litres and let that settle.

 

We killed a couple on the TR6s, one under warranty, but that has tandem pumps for the tracks, only one of which runs the rollers IIRC, cost £460+VAT so a single one should be cheaper

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Are you certain there is water in the oil? Hydraulic oil can foam up and come out of the breather (top of tank, sometimes the filler cap itself) if it is sucking air in from somewhere. It will be on the suction side - check all the connections and seals on any filters between the pump and the hydraulic oil tank. The pressure side will squirt oil out if there is a leak, so is easy to find.

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Are you certain there is water in the oil? Hydraulic oil can foam up and come out of the breather (top of tank, sometimes the filler cap itself) if it is sucking air in from somewhere. It will be on the suction side - check all the connections and seals on any filters between the pump and the hydraulic oil tank. The pressure side will squirt oil out if there is a leak, so is easy to find.

 

as above ,if its leeaking its drawing air,wich makes the oil look like its got water in it , but its air,imo:001_smile:

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