Guide rails for Alaskan et Chilaskan milling

[SteveA]

I've got a 2.5m length of aluminium box section that measures 6" width x 2" height x 2.5m length.

 

I've attached the vertical mini mill guide rails on one edge.

 

The thing I'm trying to work out is how to attach the beam to the log I'm milling.

 

Does anyone use an f clamp with their guide rails and screw that into the end of the log? (instead of screwing down through the beam/ or ladder rungs).

 

cheers, steve

[Stephen Blair]

I use a ladder and have holes in the rungs, they sit below the height of the rail

[kinderscout]

I use a 10'' by 2'' 10ft long peice of timber with my vertical milling rail on one side and various wedges and various scew's.

[SteveA]

I'm thinking more along the lines of an f clamp like this (I would modify it slightly by drilling a couple holes into the rail so I could screw it into the end of the log):

 

But I'm not sure about having enough side clearance for using with the vertical mini mill??

 

 

cheers, steve

[Macpherson]

Hi, I use an alloy box section similar to your description for my mini mill, I simply screw that onto the flat surface left by the top cut of the Alaskan using slender 8 gauge countersunk wood screws which I don't find leave a hole that's particularly visible in the finish which is, I take it, what your trying to avoid.

The only other thing is that I've got an accurately planned piece of wood slid inside the full length of the extrusion to stop it being deformed by the screws and it also gives the straightedge a bit more of a solid feel.

I have in the past considered various ways of end clamping as you describe but tbh I'll probably never get round to it, cheers.

[SteveA]

Hi, I use an alloy box section similar to your description for my mini mill, I simply screw that onto the flat surface left by the top cut of the Alaskan using slender 8 gauge countersunk wood screws which I don't find leave a hole that's particularly visible in the finish which is, I take it, what your trying to avoid.

The only other thing is that I've got an accurately planned piece of wood slid inside the full length of the extrusion to stop it being deformed by the screws and it also gives the straightedge a bit more of a solid feel.

I have in the past considered various ways of end clamping as you describe but tbh I'll probably never get round to it, cheers.

 

Hadn't thought of using countersunk screws so that's a possibility.

I went for a heavyweight profile on my box section so I doubt it would be deformed by anything... it's quite weighty, strong, but still light enough to carry.

 

I'll try to find a couple of suitable sized f clamps and see how that goes.

 

cheers, steve

[agg221]

Steve - I will try to take some photos when I am next milling as Ripsaw used to supply something like this, which I bought, and the system is excellent. It's both the attachment to the log and the connection between lengths which means I can make an absolutely rigid length of 20' up out of 4x5' sections.

 

If you aren't in a rush it is worth a look at this as it really does work well, even for the Alaskan milling wide butts.

 

Alec

[Macpherson]

Hi, so my thoughts on the alloy box section that I use at the moment is to build it into more of an adjustable jig.

By fixing a bit of aluminium T bolt extrusion to the inside 2" face of the box section, end clamp fixings could be easily made up to make a sliding jig and then the tool becomes adjustable just like the Alaskan...just an option, cheers.

 

SELECT NUTS M5-M8 FOR 20,30,40,45 T-SLOT ALUMINIUM EXTRUSION PROFILE - 3D/CNC | eBay

 

something like this, but the heavier the better....

 

and I don't know if you weld or you've used this stuff before, but with this you can do a really strong bond to these materials with a good blowtorch

 

5 Aluminium repair rods (low temp, no Flux required!), HTS2000 (the real one) | eBay

[Rob D]

Hi, so my thoughts on the alloy box section that I use at the moment is to build it into more of an adjustable jig.

By fixing a bit of aluminium T bolt extrusion to the inside 2" face of the box section, end clamp fixings could be easily made up to make a sliding jig and then the tool becomes adjustable just like the Alaskan...just an option, cheers.

 

SELECT NUTS M5-M8 FOR 20,30,40,45 T-SLOT ALUMINIUM EXTRUSION PROFILE - 3D/CNC | eBay

 

something like this, but the heavier the better....

 

and I don't know if you weld or you've used this stuff before, but with this you can do a really strong bond to these materials with a good blowtorch

 

5 Aluminium repair rods (low temp, no Flux required!), HTS2000 (the real one) | eBay

 

 

Not seen those rods before - have bought some to try.

 

 

We are working on our own first cut system for the Alaskan which will also run a mini mill type set up.

 

 

We have a prototype - taking it from a working prototype into production will take us many months though...

[SteveA]

Steve - I will try to take some photos when I am next milling as Ripsaw used to supply something like this, which I bought, and the system is excellent. It's both the attachment to the log and the connection between lengths which means I can make an absolutely rigid length of 20' up out of 4x5' sections.

 

If you aren't in a rush it is worth a look at this as it really does work well, even for the Alaskan milling wide butts.

 

Alec

 

Hey Alec, would be great to see photos of how yours works. Part of my plan is to extend the length of the guide beam just like you have said....

 

This is from the RipSaw website:

 

Connecting at the end seems more complicated.

Cheers, Steve

 

Hi, so my thoughts on the alloy box section that I use at the moment is to build it into more of an adjustable jig.

By fixing a bit of aluminium T bolt extrusion to the inside 2" face of the box section, end clamp fixings could be easily made up to make a sliding jig and then the tool becomes adjustable just like the Alaskan...just an option, cheers.

 

SELECT NUTS M5-M8 FOR 20,30,40,45 T-SLOT ALUMINIUM EXTRUSION PROFILE - 3D/CNC | eBay

 

something like this, but the heavier the better....

 

and I don't know if you weld or you've used this stuff before, but with this you can do a really strong bond to these materials with a good blowtorch

 

5 Aluminium repair rods (low temp, no Flux required!), HTS2000 (the real one) | eBay

 

Thanks for the link and ideas.... not quite got my head around how that would work for vertical cuts. Or are you thinking of using that to move the whole beam up and down, instead of having to adjust the height of the alaskan?

 

cheers, steve