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Showing results for tags 'chain'.
Found 20 results
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I have an Stihl 023 chainsaw that I’d like to fit a carving bar too. I use it for fencing work and would like to try a carving bar for morticing posts. Could someone point me in the direction of a good bar and chain? currently running a 16” regular bar.
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Hello all, I'd like some advice please? I am considering offering a chain sharpening service in my local area, as part of a wider range of sharpening services to provide some sideline income. My plan was to buy the 'top of the range' Oregon 620-230 sharpening grinder which seems to cover all chain sizes, and has the addition of a hydraulic lock to remove the need to manually clamp the chain before each grind. My fears are that I'd be throwing £300 away on a machine that would barely see much action (other than the few chains I'd sharpen for home use). Am I right in thinking that you professional arborists all either sharpen your own chains by hand in the field, or own such a machine yourselves and will sharpen all your chains on a Sunday morning? A person advertising online was charging £7.50 per chain, which I thought seemed a bit steep, but I'd like to hear the members' opinions. If I didn't have a market within the arborist community, I don't think the few domestic users that have a saw for firewood/pruning etc would provide enough income to pay for the machine in any reasonable timescale, so it might be a dead duck of an idea. I was a member years ago so I know the good natured banter here and I'm awaiting some 'good ol' fashioned p-taking' and the like What do you people think? Also, if you have views on such machines vs hand sharpening I'd be willing to hear those too. I'm a bit worried that the hydraulic feature is jest another thing to go wrong, like floor jack, hydraulic presses etc, which invariably leak and lose pressure as the seals degrade. Over to the floor.....
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Howdy! I have a "newish" two year old Stihl MS250. It seems a whole lot more persnickety than the old Stihl l chainsaw I owned. I've already had to change the fuel tank filter, spark plug, and you would think this thing would be easier to start. Hope chainsaw mfgs don't go the way of modern refrigerators. Here's my problem; Something happened to either my blade or the Oregon chain, two of them, that I am using. I am leaning to believe something I can't see is wrong with the blade because the chain seems to bind in the channel, (which I cleaned). Not the tip of the blade but nearer the back. I have managed to do some cutting but my saw isn't performing the way it should. I have noticed that on both blades there are segments that look like the front edge, (that runs in the channel) is damaged, like it has been impacted some way. I've tried to file those edges smooth but that is difficult, but it seems like that needs to be done as the blade still will not slide inside that channel on the newest blade as well as the older blade smoothly. I didn't have this problem initially. I changed to the Oregon blade because it would cut. I tossed the Stihl blade after some really frustrating days with their blade that would not cut butter. Thanks for your time and for your suggestions.
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Hi All, Would really appreciate any help. I require a chainsaw for garden maintenance, firewood cutting and pallet cutting. I have been using a old solo 645 (now dead) which i purchased second hand this served me well, but use to struggle with bigger timber. After reading this forum and seen the cult following of the 346, i have took the plunge and purchased a second hand 346xp from ebay. The seller has advised all parts are genuine husqvarna. It has had a new 15" bar, stihl 3/8 1.5 chain, spark plug, brake band, air filter and pull cord installed. I picked this saw over a new ms181, as everyone had a pretty negative opinion on it. Now i had a few questions: 1. Shall I get the saw ported? 2. Which bar length and (brand & model) is optimum for this saw, cutting all sorts dirty timber and all? 3. Which chain? I also had the opportunity to purchase a secondhand 550xp 3 years old, but decided against it for 346. This forum has been a great help and a amazing fountain of knowledge. Many thanks.
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Hi, I have a mitox 281mt multi, and want to change the chain on the pruner. From what I can see it needs a 10” 0.05” 3/8 chain. so I got a new chain...(silly me) I didn’t count the links, and bought a chain with 40 links. But the old chain, now counted, has 39 links. It does seem to fit, but the chain is not smooth. I’ve not run it up yet, but just turning the chain by hand seems to get a little stiff after about 5cm moving the chain around. Is this normal for a new chain, or do I need to swap it for a 39 link chain? Some help would be grateful. Thanks
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Hi! I am new to milling. Have just milled one tree Still, milling with alaskan mills is a bit specific. Need good first cut system, also need time to go and do stuff on site. I am looking to do milling at my site. It is a bit specific how to get trees to the site, still, as this is just my hobby then I can mill tree anytime I want (have time). Saw post while back - Still have not seen follow up. Have seen Paterson DWS, but those are a bit price and for now a bit out of my price range. Would be able to pay up to 5000 GBP. Have seen also info about home made portable chainsaw mills. http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/HomeBuilt_Portable_Chainsaw_Mill.html Anybody has experience with this kind of stuff? At this time I am ok to invest some small amount to create such a mill (maybe not so portable, but just main fraime and moving part). But as there is so few info about this kind of stuff then can` t understand why?
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Having added a great new range of Oregon products to our site, we are offering buy one get one free on all Oregon chain! For more details please check the link below Chain Loops - Sorbus International Sorbus Intl. -
Got a job of making some steps in a large garden which customer wants railway sleepers used, got to cut some of them, whats the best chain to use I know a sharp 1 you lot, would a carbide tipped be better or just use semi chisel
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Fitted a brand new sugi hara bar and chain today on a husky 550. The same bar and same chain has been fitted to another 550 and works fine but for some reason today it just wasn’t cutting through anything bigger than 4”. it seems as if the chain it pulling away from the bar when is being cut through the timber. If anyone has any ideas or this has happened in the past then I would very much appreciate any input. Thabks in advance.
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Rotatech are a new contender in the chain and guide bar industry. Has anyone tried them? I always buy either Stihl or Oregon but the prices on these are good. Tried Carlton not impressed and won't compromise price for quality. Rotatech bar and chainsaw chain pack for Stihl
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Hi all I've just recently passed my chainsaw crosscutting & maintenance and tree felling up to 200mm/8" (did bigger on the course though probably 11 - 12") I was hoping to use my qualification to make some money to pay of the damage of the saw, lessons and PPE, and hopefully start turning a profit . But I don't want to bite off more than I can chew with my saw, its a husqvarna 435 I think 41cc with a 16" bar. It was slow when stumping some of the bigger trees on the course which made me think about making this post. What sort of trees would the saw get through when crosscutting? When should I be thinking of a bigger saw? I obviously wouldn't be felling past 8 - 10" when working as im not qualified for that, however I have some trees of larger size that I might want to take down domestically. What sort of felling size would it go up to.
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Looking to make my own chains, just comparing prices around. Any ideas?
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I make three episodes video tutorial on chainsaw basic maintenance. This is first episode, disassemble and cleaning. [ame] [/ame]
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Hi all, first time posting here. I've just been given an old Homelite Super XL automatic. It's strong and runs really well but the chain is knackered and seems to of stretched? I've extended the guide bar as far as it will go but it's still loose enough to get 2 fingers between the chain and the bar. My question is... What's the best option for replacing the chain, without breaking the bank? The current chain has 70 inner teeth and 35 cutting on a 14" bar.
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Weather getting warm and snow is start to melt away so it is time remove snow chains off Your tractors tires. Forests in Finland You still maybe need chains in summertime if You drive woods in very difficult places. [ame] [/ame]
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Hi - need some advice please. I have a Shindaiwa Pole Saw - which I'm using more than I expected at the moment. It's in good condition - and I try and service it more than specified. Yesterday I encountered a problem. It jammed-up when limbing a tree. Turned-out that the chain had tightened-up so much when running it simply stopped moving. The funny thing is that if I loosen and adjust it - it's very loose on some parts of the rotation and tight as tight on other parts. Tight means really tight - and loose means almost loose enough to jump-our of the groove. So I removed the old chain and replaced it with a brand new one. Same issue. I removed the bar (which is also less than 2-3 hours old) and cleaned it out. The end sprocket rotates beautifully, there are no bends or apparent tight spots and the chain groove is clear and free of any burrs. The oil pump is working and everything seems well lubricated. I then looked at the chain sprocket. It's steel, hefty and looks in good nick. I do have a slight suspicion that it may the culprit - but can't detect any run-out by eye. There's nothing trapped in the teeth of the sprocket - and no discernible damage (it actually looks like 'new'). I took it off and re-seated it - and there was no improvement at all. That just leaves the shaft from the gearbox to the chain sprocket. Again, there's no play in the that - and I can't detect any run-out. Now thoroughly mystified. So my question is this. Anyone got any suggestions as to what it might be? I have seen that there have been some other posts about tight chains on Pole Saws - but that seems to be down to lubrication issues - and in my case it's tight spots and loose spots (if that makes sense!). Could it be that I'm overlooking something? Interestingly this is the only real trouble I've had with Shindaiwa. My perspective is that the stuff they make (made?) is really top-drawer.
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Hi everyone. This is my first post here. I'm a landscaper who uses his chainsaw rarely. So rarely in fact, I only have an electric chainsaw. Yes, I said the word that's probably banned here. I only use it for small parts of my job. For real tree work, I call my tree surgeon! It's a Black & Decker GK2240T. ANYWAY. I hit a nail in an old fence post I was chopping last week, the saw jammed nicely, so I presumed I'd find bits of nail under the cover and the chain to be all mangled. But it wasn't. Everything seemed fine. I took the chain off, gave everything a clean. But now the chain won't turn. The throttle works fine. The drive sprocket spins freely when no chain is attached. And it actually drives the chain when it's really loose. But as soon as I tighten it to how it should be, I can't even move the chain along by hand. And when throttling, the motor will run, but it won't engage the drive sprocket enough to turn the chain. I've looked at the bar, and it doesn't appear bent (by eye). The nose sprocket turns freely. I've cleaned out the groove in the bar, and it doesn't look pinched anywhere. The chain doesn't look visibly damaged as far as I can see (but besides the blades being blunt etc I don't really know what to look for) Any advice? If I can't move the chain by hand when tight, does that say something obvious? Do I need a new chain? New bar? Any help would be much appreciated. And I know that by default, having an electric saw makes me a bit of a joke here, but I humbly and honestly look up to you guys for your expertise. Thanks in advance. Jon
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Hi there I run an oregon bp22 micro chisel chain on a 15in bar on an ms260 chain saw. Unfortunately, on occasion I have hit something other than wood and damage has occured to the working corner and side plate. After having attempted to sharpen the cutters using a 4.8mm round file in a 3/16 (0.325") file holder the side plate has got worse and instead of being 85 degrees it is more like 90 or 95 degrees. The top plate angle is fine and I seem to be getting the working corner back to being sharp but the side plate angle remains at a right angle. Also, I have been holding the file holder 10 degrees pointing upwards and I am getting wear to the drive link which doesn't look right. Can anyone help? Has anyone else had a similar experience? Thanks
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Big cutter link OR small hand? A few of the recent posts talked about nice new shiny thing's so how about these, I believe it to be 3/4" pitch, I grind the links off and get them gold-plated. My local saw shop has been good to me over the years, so hacked off a 6" length got it cleaned & gold-plated then mounted it on a nice unusual piece of manzanita and presented it to him. Unfortunatly 10 day's later he past away and it dissapeared.
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Stihl Chain Parts, i.e. loose cutters, drive links and presets. Does anyone know how to find the information ? The Stihl online reference does not list chain parts, so I presume it's reserved for dealers, but the ones I have asked will not help, "Ohh I dont think they do that". I am making some custom chain for a sculpting tool and had to very carfully dis-assemble a length of chain for the parts......It took far too long to do it carfully enough, grinding tiny rivet heads etc. Please any help appreciated
