kram

Nothing about the bus driver or bus company?!? The driver should be bannned and a big fine for them too.

How do you feed a 12" chipper with long 10-12" logs? Much above 8" will become too heavy to carry or drag without two people unless cut into short lengths. To be honest I like the ST6P as it is not deafeningly loud. When your dragging brash you dont want ear defenders until you get up close the the chipper and dont have hands free to pop them down. I cant remember what other chippers I used, but they were far louder and even with ear defenders it was too much! (I do need to buy some better ones)

Nope but my personal opinion is that barrel knotted rope bridges are a shite idea, the tails always catch on things and I have never once wanted to lengthen it after tying much shorter than standard.

I dont know a great amount about chippers and reading this had to check what we use... A Forst ST6P, 6" and 37HP.. Seems to manage everything that fits in the hole. What stands out to me is we can easily fill a transit sized tipper multiple times a day on a big removal if theres enough to chip. Obviously not chipping big logs in the ST6.. With bigger chippers are you using bigger tippers, dumping more often? Or just quicker at chipping?

Are those still available? The oregon ones I see listed are identical chinese cheapies. CBN is for hard metal, which the chome plate is, however as these wheels work, Im not convinced its required. Fineness of grit size would be more important in my opinion. Yes photos are extremely hard to capture sharpness of a chain. Might not be perfect but it is sharp. Thanks

I made up a steel plate to reduce twisting and really helps, but there is still twisting. I plan to fill the hollow pivot part of the base, with some steel sheet cut to shape and epoxy to stiffen it. There is a step on the base that I forgot about so needs a 2.5mm spacer, job for another day. This chain was badly blunted, not cutting straight, my mate was going to bin it. I could have taken more off but it will do him for now. He hit a stone yesterday with the new replacement!

Got these today. I was only expecting one but they sent 4. One is spare and the other two going to friends. The saw didnt come with screws, plain plastic holes. LS dont list it on the parts diagram. Anyone know what self tapper screws I need or have a pair spare? genuine part number? Prefer to trade the spare spike for screws or if not, a couple quid to cover postage. Cheers Mark

Unknown causes easy to narrow down. Likely carb related. Same could happen to any saw if you leave stale fuel on it ? My slightly less cheap McCulloch, also from Lidl, has a carb issue preventing the primer from sucking fuel through.. sucking air from the carb. It doesnt have enough power to really be worth the time reassembling. I will eventually.

"Ground heave is likely to occur when established trees or shrubs die or are removed, therefore removing their root systems that help absorb moisture from the soil. Without these root systems, excess water can accumulate in the ground, causing the soil to expand and heave upwards." Thats from google. You could insist that as part of the works, suitable drainage could be added to maintain ground water at suitable levels, perhaps something like a french drain (channel filled with gravel)

Thats a shame, looks like nice healthy oaks that have been their longer than the houses. Consider requesting a TPO from the council.

The poles and lines are not on your customers woodland, just that the trees overhang the boundry? So, theres no wayleave or BT stuff in the woodland? In that case BT should be paying for the trees to be cut upto the boundry. I would send BT an advance invoice of say, 10x what is reasonable, and see if they pay it before any work! If new poles are going up, check that they dont encroach on the woodland. BT are known for chancing their luck and putting them where they shouldnt.

Do you have the part numbers? Assuming they are special carb screws? If they are plain metric standard ones I would go to ebay. Any local dealer should be able to get them. For online, radmore are a good shop, try their parts page? Spare Parts - Radmore & Tucker WWW.RADMORETUCKER.CO.UK Garden Machinery Spare Parts Finder Use our Spare Parts Finder to look up a part for Stihl, Husqvarna and Makita garden machinery...

Had a look today, both neighbours were out so couldnt get access from their gardens. The garden to the right has nothing to damage, nice clear grass for a drop zone, but not directly under tree. Heres a photo from the road. I went up the beech to have a better look, decided not to swing across incase I push it over! I previously thought there was still some life and leaves on the birch but I was wrong, it is 100% dead. All green is from the beech. My current idea is that I want to be roped in to the beech, with the ladder under me, and possibly speed line anchored on the beech, send everything away near to the road ( not done a speed line before)

I got one of these today as I need a small saw, to stop me abusing my 020T on the ground. 18" full chisel .325" chain 53cc 2kW/2.7HP £60 Seems adequate for my use. Any bigger stuff I will use the G327XP.

Finished upgrading the pivot on mine. Much smoother with no play. I can now set it accurately and do the chain all the same length. Its been a year on the healing bench and I have lost the pivot spring that holds it up, which means I am tying it to the wall with a bungee cord. I notice another flaw that was hidden by the pivot. For anything but a light touchup, the base is flexing and changing the angle of the tooth with poor results. Holding the end down, by the swivel, prevents it. Instead I plan to bolt the base to a peice of 4mm steel sheet so it cant move.

A friend has this at the back of her garden. Its under an enourmous beech tree, so the birch is growing off to one side with quite a lean. From just above fence height it leaves her garden and over hangs three gardens with sheds, with no good drop zone. The beech is healthy and will provide a good safe anchor point for climbing blocking down the birch. I believe I'm correct to advise that it should be removed. What do you think?

I've had one about a year, it makes an exceptionally sharp chain, much sharper than a file will get it. It also gives the correct angle, where as any manual filed chain is going to be slightly off and different each tooth. I try to avoid filing my chains as it means the grinder will have to take more off to get the correct angle back. For about double the price Einhell do a cordless version which would be better for me. I think the build quality is just as bad. The problem is general loose fit of the parts. I made up a fine threaded adjuster. The main pivot bores on mine measure 8.6mm but the pin is 7.9mm, so it has 1.4mm of slop! An easy fix is to replace the pin with one measuring 8.6mm or near as you can find. With the slop, you can go side to side, you dont need to set it up accurately. Each tooth will be a slightly different length. Mini 1/4" .043" chains are impossible, too much slop and you easily cut off a tooth. which are what I use on my Echo 2511. Works well on 3/8 LP, 3/8 and .325 chains. Without the slop, the teeth should be equal length but you would need to start on the shortest/most damaged. Should have mine upgraded today and then I will try it on some small chains.

My posts above were with a TESC 1/4" carving bar and new genuine chain, which I think co.e.with the rakers too low. I had a pair of Rotatec E0, 1/4" pitch 0.043" 45 DL chains gathering dust. I'm not sure they sell this size any more? Anyway I broke and joined them to make a 60DL. While this chain is physically wider and bigger teeth, it is smooth, finding the saw feels more capable and faster with it.

I have a Protos helmet and the original ear defenders are not too great, perhaps due to their compact size. I know there are upgrades to 3M Peltor ear defenders, does anyone know which models fit? From looking at the 3M ones I believe the X1-X5 are supposed to be the best protection for there size? With X5 being very large. Amazon has Peltor 3 and some others cheap at the moment. I might get some X5's or 3's for when I'm feeding the chipper. If I were starting again, I wouldnt waste the money on Protos, I didnt realise how much bigger it is. Thanks

I have a small ash sapling in a pot from 2022. I noticed the lower leaves seem to be browning and dropping much before the newer upper foliage which is still a bit green. These popped up in the last couple days. Is it honey fungus or a root fungus? Perhaps I should repot it, wash the soil away from the roots and use fresh compost?

Neither material has any issue being dropped. If it lands on concrete and burrs the surface, it will want to be filed smooth before you run another rope through it. All grades used in climbing gear have reasonable ductility. "Micro fractures" is not a term that is used In metallurgy in this sort of context. @Mr. Squirrelthat looks like what I want to make. What did the pro splicers take issue with, the length? I'd probably go a bit longer as it looks a pain to splice it that short, and the central lockstich looks redundant?

The system could also manage the subbies payment and take 10% !

Rings from here, tho steel may be over the top. I got them for use as cinching anchors where I didnt want to trust alu but the small is a bit small, and big is too big for that use, so instead have some DMM 34mm alu ones for cinching. At Height 70kN forged Steel O Ring - Honey Brothers HONEYBROS.COM At Height 70kN forged Steel O Ring from Honey Brothers. The largest equipment specialist in the tree care industry. Alu ones At Height 25kN Forged Aluminium O Ring - Honey Brothers HONEYBROS.COM At Height 25kN Forged Aluminium O Ring from Honey Brothers. The largest equipment specialist in the tree care industry. Yes seen the Stein ones, I think their shorter 90cm one will be about double the length I want. The longer it is, the lower your top anchor becomes on a small stem. I assume that any multiple wraps around the stem makes it non retrievable.

Ah, I made a mistake there, the clove hitch and stopper should be on the small ring with the large ring having a spliced eye, so that nothing can get stuck. However after a quick test, a clove hitch wont work on a small ring as it wants to fold over, to become just two loops in the ring, although the stopper does stop it pulling out completely, its not going to be reliable. Perhaps with a pair of bigger rings it could work, but I dont have them. I was intending to avoid using a prussik loop but that might be the best solution.

It does appear to do everything except for being quite large and bulky to carry up on harness, and expensive for what is a peice of rope and three rings. I have large and small steel rings and some spare rope already. I am thinking a tied clove hitch on the big ring in the middle will allow adjustment, spliced eyes with small ring on each end. Or one end with a barrel stopper, I'm not sure if its useful to have one on each end. A quick example without splicing, probably wants to be a lot shorter. Ignore the tail.