kram
-
Posts
794 -
Joined
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by kram
-
Valve Clearance Setting Kit for Stihl FS90, FS91 Brushcutters - OEM No. 4180 007 1005 | L&S Engineers WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Valve clearance setting kit Genuine Stihl Part OEM Part No. 4180 007 1005 Suitable for the following Stihl Machines: FS83, FS83T, FS90, FS90R, FS100... Mistake.. 67p!
-
Perhaps your problem is not with Stihl but instead, trusting your local dealer to service them, who likely think they can sell you a new machine instead of an easy fix. The Br800 is a 4 mix engine, generally they just need the valves adjusted which is a very simple, easy, 10 minute job, you need a gaset/feeler gauge set which costs all of 50p.
-
It does look like a significant fungus infection at the base and possibly roots. If it were me I would ask the local council tree officer to inspect, they could likely identify it. It looks significant enough I'd suggest they give permission for removal.
-
If its a weak machine I could weld a baffle to reduce the size of the hole by an inch. Sounds like these are running a bit near their maximum and feeding it easier work might double its life?
-
Great to know someone that has done a weld repair. I was also thinking reinforcement needed. You welded in situ? We dont want to strip it. I assume your Kempi is a mig? I have a Sherman 200A tig/stick welder, I'm no good at mig! Unsure to use basic 6013/er70 or the better 7018/er80, stronger but more likely to crack... Might be better if we find a pro welder to do it. We are not trying to be cheap but £5k for a replacement fitted flywheel is too much... Would you have a photo of the Jensen? If not I'll search for it when I get home. I doubt the fan blades themselves see much force but looks as though they reinforce the flywheel. When it works they are a great machine ( not that I have experience of others) and will swallow up anything that fits in the hole. Perhaps we should be more careful what we feed it?
-
My friend has problems with his ST6P and this thread came up. Has anyone had problems with cracks on the flywheel fan blade welds? They want to replace the flywheel but its extremely expensive. Its a 2017. The main issue, the feed roller snapped and is getting repaired. I am wondering if this can be welded in situ, grind out the cracks and re weld. I'm not a professional welder but can do TIG and stick. I am unsure about something this size however - it should likely be preheated to avoid cracking, and very difficult to heat something that size, in place, without over heating anything else. It will be a very heavy lump so no chance of us stripping it out ourselves.
-
£29.. may be worth a try as amazon returns are easy.. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Housing-Handle-STIHL-MS440-Chainsaw/dp/B07BW3Z1QX
-
A cordless ratchet is a great tool, they dont have the hammer or power of an impact wrench so are not going to strip any heads. Great when theres bad access to a bolt. If the heads are covered in shite, you need to clean that, whatever tool your using.
-
500i? This is all my mate uses when his MS151 is too small.
-
Done. Video did not work out as it was pointing at my feet! I've never been good with videos. Much of it was already removed which they did with hand saws, must have taken ages. I started somewhere halfway up. Gentle angled cuts then touch in the middle, and it often pings off. Once I had a cut all along I wedged it futher from the wall with some cuttings, that gave clearance to cut along the bottom and then the top with no risk to the chain. I dont have a suitable ladder here, so couldnt properly reach the roof. Carefull nibbling away at the ivy got the wall cleared. My chain was already a little blunt and I did touch a few times early on, it'll sharpen up ok. I always use cheap chains for this sort of job. I used the 020T.
-
Can you put some pictures up? I would not choose Stihl for any battery tools, from what I have seen they are well behind other power tool manufacturers. Having searched the part number, the motor appears to be a cheapy 775 size DC motor.This is not a proper tool motor - but the sort of thing you expect from a Lidl. These motors overheat for fun, not suitable for this sort of work. You may be able to easily swap it. The difficulty will be removing the gear from the motor shaft and re installing on a new motor. They are likely a shrink/interferance/press fit. The problem is it will likely happen again. I would suggest a different brand with brushless motor. Stihls homeowner grade battery tools are junk.
-
Noticed this a few times, is there a way to turn it off and just show me all posts in date order?
-
You cant just fell your neighbours garden trees without their permission. I believe council are only relevant if TPO or conservation area, but still requires the owners permission. You can trim back to your boundry but thats it. Without permission would be tresspass, criminal damage and possibly more. Not to mention, if there is a genuine reason for removal, example tree being dangerous, the owner should be paying for its maintence.
-
If the top is struggling that would suggest to me a root problem or rot preventing adequate nutrients from being absorbed. Have you a photo at the base of the tree?
-
Not feeling like it today, I've caught the snots and a bad headache, dont want to spread it to my friends.. Technique is simple, do a 45 degree angled cut most the way through the ivy. Repeat this a couple inches away. Next, touch the bottom nose of the saw somewhere between the cuts, and the peice will ping off towards you. I shall attempt to get a video tomorrow.
-
Its a very short wall, end and back wall of a garage. Its grown into and around the roof so there will be no peeling it off in sheets before cutting along the top. the bits grown inside the roof will be left to die and then removed later. I wont be damaging tools or the brick! I quite enjoy my chainsaw method as I use the bar nose to ping the pieces off in a controlled way. Peeling is enjoyable yes, quite often I would peel everything out of a tree, cut and pull, amazing how strong it is I'd like to try the brush cutter, I just dont know if its suitable. Its certainally not a tool to try out with a paying customer watching but this is just a friends garage and I get to park next to it. I may have a go in afternoon.
-
I have trimmed a reasonable amount of ivy, usually with chainsaw. Two partial cuts and then hit the middle, the lump will ping off with no damage to bark and no risk to chain. A friend has a brick wall garage, lots of inch thick ivy. It occurs to me I have not tried my 3 blade brush cutter attachement yet. (Used plenty of trimmers). I'll likely do it with chainsaw as it works and its quick, atleast the higher up stuff. Is a brush cutter blade any good for ivy along the base of the wall? I realise it would need a lot of care, but as I said, not used it before. Good excuse to try a new tool or a bad idea? Thanks.
-
Looks like I will be putting the old cylinder back on the auger! I have ordered and now returned three aftermarket cyl kits. They all appear to be made from recycled cans, porous castings, holes in the plating.
-
A lathe is the best option. Buy a lathe. Second best option is grind it off with a 40 grit flap disc. 3rd best is if your welding the nut anyway, welding heat will have it fall out. What are you needing m24 size nuts for?
-
Yes it ran well, very little change since I originally repaired it, I have just found a pic from when it originally siezed. The rings were stuck with alu smeared into the grooves, yes there was a lump missing above the ring. I dont like having tools in a poor state like that, however it does not need any more power. If it hits a brick, large root or concrete, it can hurt or rip out your hands. I dont expect to be doing any more fence holes. The 16:1 gearbox makes me think it might have some other uses.
-
I had to check the engine auger, knowing that it previously siezed. I couldnt find parts at the time so cleaned up best I could and reassembled. It ran well enough and did many more fence holes. The original sieze was caused by the cylinder being only loosely assembled from new. 130psi is not bad, considering the abuse. Pulled it apart for a closer look, and its exactly as I remember, it has not got noticably worse and would still live if I reassembled it I have ordered a couple of cylinder kits but the first is likely worse than whats on there, so thats being returned - porous casting with holes in the plating.
-
I dont like petrol fumes where I keep the saws.
-
I drain after each day even if using it the next day. If I'm not using for a while then I will run them - which I did not do last time, and so my G372xp currently has some minor carb issues. If fuel mix is stored in a gallon can in a dark cold area, it'll be ok for a few months in winter. Dont leave it in the saw. I got some cheap fuel/oil caps off amazon and drilled them out (carbide burr, a drill will go sideways), ideal for draining without making a mess. A little dirt wont matter, all tools should have filters. If the dirt gets excessive, a coffee filter works well.
-
It is interesting as their spec is underpowered for the displacement and the McCulloch atleast, is underpowered, but a high compression should give more power? Either way, they do the job and adequate for the little ground work I do. The G372XP, I am thinking of getting a better pattern cylinder kit. Meteor and Hyway seem to get good reviews? I have a few more to test, BG86 blower to test, its down on power but the cylinder looks good, looking through the exhaust. An earth auger, that previously siezed years ago, still runs adequately after cleaning up the piston and ring groove. My Echo 2511T, runs great, I need to make a thread adaptor for the tester.
-
Tested my kit today, I'm wondering what a good result should be. All were checked after warming up, filter removed, throttle open. Using one of these Husqvarna testers https://www.lsengineers.co.uk/compression-tester-genuine-husqvarna-part-531-03-16-86.html G372XP, around 130psi. Runs ok but cyl has some marks. Hyundai blower, 140psi. 020T 145psi. McCulloch CS340 195 psi. That was a suprise, used to run great but the carb needs some adjustment. Lidl 53cc, 215 psi.
