Muddy42
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Everything posted by Muddy42
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What's the best options for cutting your own logs?
Muddy42 replied to Dougie Stirling's topic in Firewood forum
Have you considered an mains electric splitter to go with your mains electric saw? They can be slow but less effort than splitting by hand. -
Yes I agree with that. My cylinder looked very like the pictures above with deep scoring and gouges. Maybe too much sawdust got past the air filter (husqvarna ranchers are known for a flawed choke and air filter design), or it was poorly tuned or used with poor fuel? Anything could have happened over its 30 years. I'm going to have to try an aftermarket cylinder and piston next.
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Agree. I've concluded that I have over-rubbed a cylinder recently which resulted in too poor compression to run. But then if you leave marks you wear the piston. This is why some cylinders are beyond it. All you can do now is run it - use plenty of 2 stroke oil when assembling the piston and in your mix.
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Sorry your photo isn't the best - but either the cylinder could be past repair or just requires more polishing. Generally people say your fingernail shouldn't catch on anything. Meteor pistons tend to be good, are you sure it is the right size, how did the fit feel, any rocking?
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Have you tried thicker line with the Oregon jet head? I find two pieces of 4mm square cord can last for 3 or 4 tanks of fuel. I think its important to use it in the correct situation, if cutting waist high grass or thick stuff like docks, its time to move up to a blade. I've never been that impressed with the standard bump heads.
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I had a similar thing on my car. The DPF was clogged causing two sensors to go. It was a very expensive repair. Its a diesel car that was just used for frequent short journeys which is a bad pattern for causing problems. Stupidly the automatic gearbox was also in an eco mode, which kept the revs down. I now keep the car in sport and make sure it gets a decent blast or revs once in a while.
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You could even try and clip on an old jerry can lid? Proper hillbilly.
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Good idea. If all else fails, you could try and make a hillbilly fix with a thick plastic bottle. Try and find a bottle with as close a neck profile as the the fuel tank shoulder. Cut the neck and lid off the bottle and jubilee clip it to the fuel tank with a strip of rubber between the surfaces. An aspen or motomix bottle might work. You could even mold the plastic to fit with a heatgun. The aspen bottle cap can then simply be unscrewed for filling.
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There are plenty of videos of this on youtube. You shake up the water vigorously with the fuel and let it separate. Putting a die in the water might help, as long as it doesn't mix with the fuel, a water based die maybe? I guess you'd need to develop a system and think about the right vessel with enough volume to give you a useable amount of pure fuel, see through sides and a drain on the bottom.
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saw this on the esso website today (29th June 2023) From September 2023 our Synergy Supreme+ 99 will transition to contain up to a maximum of 5% ethanol at all Esso pumps irrespective of which part of the country they are located. The labelling at our pumps will remain as E5 for Synergy Supreme+ 99 unleaded.
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One of the locking wings looks bent down?
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I was given a honda 4 stroke, I use it, bit wouldn't buy another. The weight to power ratio is worse, its vibey and I dont really know how to work on it compared to two strokes. sorry maybe its just me!
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Totally agree. Last year I waited three months for a warranty repair for a Husqvarna robot mower, when it returned fixed Husqvarna had upgraded their software which caused a further six month pause. Both delays are the responsibility of Husqvarna not my local dealer, however it has left my faith in new machinery, the benefit of warranties and anything that needs plugging-in in for diagnosis, severely tested. Now, I'd rather buy cheap second hand and have a few extra saws and strimmers on standby, repair myself or if I fail "there-is-a-guy-locally-who-can-fix-anything-with-an-engine."
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interesting, i’ve not seen HB exhibit that kind of behaviour yet, but then I have not been cutting just pulling up. I find it best to tackle large areas early on before they flower and the cover gets really think. You soon develop a hawk eye for identifying the leaves!
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Haha. Its an officially sanctioned torture treatment for seeding HB, sanctioned under the Geneva Convention. First you quickly place a bag over the victim, grasp the stalk firmly and pull it out by the roots. The bag catches any seeds that explode. Cable ties help if doing a few.
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I'm fighting a battle with a front guard of Himalayan Balsam as it literally moves upriver, probably via explosive seed blasts. So there are still few enough plants to simply pull them up. I seal them in plastic sacks to die. If you can get the plants before they flower its ideal, however the flowers can help locate them. I do tackle a few isolated plants once seeded with the 'bag over the head technique.' Seems to be working so far!
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I think its pretty sick to be discussing irony and not very respectful for those involved. This was a horrific way to die and a nightmare for friends and family. Just leave it as a horrible tragedy.
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I'd do it any time, the sooner the better. You can also make the reverse argument, the shoots are renewed every year so in early spring plants have yet to build up reserves so you are hitting them when they are weakest. Plus its easier to poison smaller shoots than larger ones that you would have to cut back anyway.
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Yes that works well, I've even heard of people using a big syringe.
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I have yet to find a plant or tree that can survive the standard treatment of cutback and then 1 to 3 applications of fresh max strength glyphosate. The last two treatments are probably only needed because I missed some the first time or I am impatient.
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When did they buy the property? This is normally the point that a homeowner gets told about TPOs through searches - formal questions asked to the council that can be relied on. I think I'd get the homeowner to ask (in writing) as its less likely to raise alarm than an arborist ringing up. If they get an email reply saying No and you have a print out of the map showing nothing you should be OK.
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Oh the irony - failed electric motor and survivor petrol engine!
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Yes my brother has an 80s Harrier. Phenomenally tough and easy to maintain. However its much easier to clean small mower when you can just tip it over (as long as its the right way) compared to a heavy ride on. Its too late for mine, but I do paint it whenever the deck is off for sharpening or repair (which is quite often at the moment - bearings and axle recently). I don't think those hose ports work that well. I guess you could drive the mower onto a ramp or a repair pit. I have a pit but the mess and faff would be horrendous.
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I suspect the deck will rust before the engine! Even with cleaning/repainting the rust gets to them eventually. I have a few old ride ons and find I can repair or replace everything easily until the deck goes and they are no longer in production. I have one in this stage at the moment - i have welded the odd hole, but will have to decide what to do when the structural areas go. I could find a different replacement deck and weld it to fit, but its a fair bit of work!
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I have a battery drill and screwdriver. Everything else is mains power (indoor workshop including mains power drill and pillar drill) or petrol (outdoors - strimmer, hedgecutter, chainsaws). i have tried various battery tools and feel I have been relatively open minded - yes they are easy to start and maintain but the power is just woeful. They might suit an occasional non-practical user but for serious users they just dont come close yet.
