Treetom15

I replaced the pot and piston on my 200t about 18 months/2years ago, it’s a cracking saw but it feels quite low on compression, and recently I’ve noticed it bog down on quite small stuff. I deleted the head gasket about a year ago, and when I had the saw in bits I noticed the piston was black down one side, like it was allowing gas past? Anyway, I’m going to strip the saw down and (probably) change the piston, just checking if anyone has any aftermarket recommendations? I’ve heard of Meteor pistons but can’t find them in the uk? @spud I’ve heard you may be the man to ask?

30 minutes ago, TIMON said:

This video, while a bit lengthy, gives a good demonstration of the ZZ’s limitations...
critical factors are the wear on the link barrels that contact the rope and side loading.
I have learned to have good confidence in the Mk 3.

 

Absolutely the best thing to show anyone concerned by the strength of the ZZ? That’s the same chap I bought my alloy tether from, a very knowledgeable person!

Mines about 3 years old, used for a mix of ddrt and srt with a rope wrench and tether, I’ve noticed it slipping quite a bit recently on 11.8 drenaline. I’ve got one of the new ZZ’s from the company I work for, on the same rope and no bothers at all. I was told 5 years was about their limit but I guess that depends how much you climb etc. I think srt has put more miles on mine than I’d realised!

Thanks very much @aspenarb & @tonytreeIt makes a massive difference seeing what people have when it comes to building something myself! Still trying to source a tipper back off a transit or something like that, I’m hoping the whole build will be well under 1k so I’d much rather make one myself than pay someone!

@aspenarb thanks very much mate, the pics you’ve sent before have been massively helpful!

13 hours ago, AngrySquirrel said:

with a crew cab you still get around a tonne on the back and you can go over the back a bit but want front as tight as can to cab as 75% of weight will be at front of box/in front of rear axle

 

It might pay to weld some plates on chassis so tipper base is supported as best can as it drops away at rear of cab which is where a lot of load stress is placed Transits used to crack and snap there! mind there two bits of tin spot welded together.

 

Seen one with a crane box on back picking up cars headlights used to aim at the stars when loaded.

But at least the hi lux has a decent chassis

Good idea to beef up the chassis a bit, I think I’ll put another cross member in just behind the cab when it comes to fitting a tipper. I’m hoping if I can mod a tipper framework off a van and bolt it onto the existing mounts I have, it will spread the load fairly evenly so it should minimise the stress. I’ll try and run it for a while to see how it performs but I’ll probably put uprated leafs on the back or an airbag kit to keep it level when it’s loaded. It’s been a project start to finish so I figured I may as well keep going ?

Thanks very much to everyone for al your help and input! I’ve decided to try and find a decent tipper van body (something with a scissor ram) and modify it to fit the truck. If anyone knows of one they want rid of I’d be very grateful! Also a pic of the truck so far 

6 hours ago, Alex O said:

i went for a single ram on mine

That’s a lovely job there mate, shame you’ve sold it! Was that something you built yourself or did you mod a tipper back off a transit etc? 

10 hours ago, aspenarb said:

The scissor type ram/tipping gear will all be mounted between the upper and lower sub chassis`s, nothing hangs below this so everything you put on the back whether single or double cab will sit on the chassis you have. If you look at the two chassis`s below you will notice they are basically the same, there are two forward bodymounts that will need 50x50 box section on top of them to bring them up to the same level as the other fixing points. What you will be doing is mounting the cut down tipper body and sub chassis`s as close to the hump in the chassis where it goes over the axle as you can. All the tipper gubbins will be sat over the mid cross member/tank/ spare wheel, nothing hangs down. Just slide your cut down tipper onto the chassis and bolt down to all the lugs available.

 

Bob

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks very much mate, pictures are a big help! Luckily my truck is stripped down at the moment as I’m doing a good bit of work to it, so I’ve plenty of time to fiddle and play around!

1 hour ago, aspenarb said:

The easiest and cheapest tipper conversion for any pickup is to adapt the Ali planked Transit type tipper bodies. They are riveted together and can be dis assembled, shortened, width reduced with a wood saw and riveted/bolted back together. The only " fabrication" needed is to shorten the subframes and reduce the width of the bolster, you dont need to get involved with the tipper geometry because its the front bit you are cutting off so the hinge to ram ratio remains untouched , the ram etc stays where it is.

 

Bob

 

There was enough ali planking left over on this one to add some extra height to the sides.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

That was exactly my thinking. I found a transit tipper back complete with ram, electronics and everything I needed for £250, I don’t think it had the alloy boards but I can add those. It’s mostly how/where to mount the ram in the back of the truck, I’ve seen how to fit to a single cab but my issue is how much room the double cab takes up 

2 hours ago, topchippyles said:

Mate has one where i live,DO IT 

I don’t suppose you have any pics of it do you? Sorry I know it’s a long shot, just desperately looking for more info about ram fitting etc!

As the title suggests, I’ve recently bought a crewcab truck-mk3 Toyota Hilux. The chassis and cab is sound, but the tub on the back is a bit rough. I’m torn between stripping and welding the tub, or out my efforts into making a tipper back. The idea was always to do a tipper eventually but I’ve only seen people convert the single cabs? Looking for info on placement for the ram and tipping gear, I’m obviously aware that a crewcab won’t hold as much, but I think it would be a good addition! 

Don’t quote me on this, but when I looked into it the max working load of the big ISC block was the same as the small DMM block, so I just went for the DMM. Much better build quality, better finish, bearing are smooth as. Not the sort of kit that wear out every year so may as well buy the best you can afford! 

@monkeybusiness have spoken to the driver and the company, they are providing me with a quote for a hire lift and a contract lift, which will be what I book! Thanks for raising that point mate, like I said the planning of the job is not something I’ve had to do before so I’d rather get all the facts 

17 hours ago, monkeybusiness said:

That’s not a contract lift, that’s crane hire by the sounds of it. If things go wrong it will be on your head/insurance. You need to book a contract lift - this leaves the lift-plan and insurance to the crane firm. They then plan the whole job - size of crane required, crane positioning, worksite layout, ground pressure/pad size, weight of pieces to be removed (maximum), signaller etc etc. 

It is very important from an insurance point of view to get this clarified before you start though...

I will speak to the operator tomorrow and clarify this, as you said if it is a hire and something was to happen I would rather have the backup of the company the crane and operator came from!

2 hours ago, htb said:

Ask your crane company what they req, assuming its contract lift and they are doing their side of the papertrail.

Good point, thanks for that! Will have a chat with him tomorrow, he does a lot of crane work for the arb guys in my area so he will know the score 

I’m employing the driver and machine for 1 day, so a contract lift I think? As I said, I haven’t organised something like this before, it’s usually a case of just show up and do as you’re told haha!

As the title suggests, I’m looking for advice as to exactly what I need to have in place for an upcoming job. I’ve done crane work before but always for a company as an employee or a subby. Basically I want to make sure I am all properly above board as the job is in a built up area. I am properly insured (Tree Surgeon Insurance Services) but I want to make sure paperwork is all up to scratch. I’m aware I will need a generic RA for tree works, a site specific RA on the day and a method statement for works. I’m basically after advice from people who’ve done this before, and anyone who can point me towards some templates (I’ve found the method statement one on the AA website?) 

Any help would be much appreciated!

Tom 

Not a subby here, but I’d say that’s a pretty shitty trick your employer is pulling. If you’ve booked out 3 days for him, and he clearly has enough put on the job, why not pay you guys for the last 20% Worth of work on the 3rd day-early finish, everyone’s happy, and job gets done. If work gets cancelled out of their control then it’s a different matter and that’s the risk being self employed, but the only thing he will encourage like that is people will drag the jobs out longer because they want their day rate!  

I’m after a new set of spikes, and the Kk’s look brilliant-like the carbon distils but a touch cheaper and come with the foot ascender. Only question I have is, has anyone on here bought any and had to pay import tax etc on them? They’re about £330ish, just checking if any big tax sting will make them lass good value! Cheers 

23 hours ago, averagearborist said:

On 25/01/2020 at 19:00, Treetom15 said:

This is my go-to canopy anchor-
So long as you remove your climbing system from the rope and remember to attach your retrieval ball it’s a winner. Just stick your rope thru the saver and put an alpine butterfly with a ‘biner in the other side. Zero friction to retrieve, easy to set and so much safer than a base anchor 

EDIT-the “live” end of the line (where your friction device would be) is on the RIGHT, just to cover my own arse ?‍♂️

Read more  

Is there a video on how to use this thing? It looks awesome.

There may be somewhere online but I’m not sure myself sorry! If I remember next time I use it I’ll grab a vid ?

For about 3 weeks I was convinced they were the worst boots I’d ever owned, my heals were in bits and they wouldn’t soften up. 18 months later I’m totally changed, so long as you look after the leather with proper boot wax mine have lasted great. I’d say they’re probably 70/30 climbing/ground and once they bed in they’re nice and light, and the soles are nice and narrow for climbing in. Nearing the end of their life now but if they make it to 2 years I will definitely buy more! 

This is my go-to canopy anchor-

So long as you remove your climbing system from the rope and remember to attach your retrieval ball it’s a winner. Just stick your rope thru the saver and put an alpine butterfly with a ‘biner in the other side. Zero friction to retrieve, easy to set and so much safer than a base anchor 

EDIT-the “live” end of the line (where your friction device would be) is on the RIGHT, just to cover my own arse ?‍♂️

I know it kinda defeats the purpose of making your own, but a petzl chicane is about £115 on FR Jones, might be cheaper in time vs money? 

As daft as it may sound, utility arb (?) might not be a bad place to start? I worked for a company who did 60/40 utility/domestic arb and due to the nature of utility work I got plenty of time climbing, and quickly! Plus company’s are always looking for guys, and the money isn’t bad. Lots of small 2 man band style company’s are just after that 3rd man to drag brash all day, nothing wrong with that but not ideal if you want to get stuck in and learn!