Treetom15

Yep I’m aware that my rigging kit needs to be LOLER tested-my “bigger” kit (bollard, ropes, pulleys etc) all is tested, but I figured if I’m only using the speed line for smaller branchwood I’m happy to use old carabiners……

As the title suggests, I’m after some old used carabiners, to use for speed line slings. Ideally 2 or 3 way locking gates, they don’t need to have LOLER (probably items that failed LOLER due to sticking gate etc would be best!) 
anyone got anything kicking about they don’t want/any loler assessors got any “condemned” ones they want rid of? Promise they won’t be climbed on😂

Sounds daft but I always try not to wrap my thumb around the rope when ascending, means you don’t grip the rope so tight and therefore less on your arms. The whole back peddling a bike thing is spot on too👌

Thanks very much Mark, will give them a call Monday 👍 

Standard poor planning waiting until the weather starts to turn to buy a new jacket……🙄

 I used a cut & climb jacked loaned to me by a trainer on a course and was very impressed, but I cannot find them for sale anywhere? Radmore & Tucker list them but non in stock, does anyone on here know to somewhere that has them in stock? 

Another +1 for the multi saver, or a cambium saver in general, the multi is amazingly versatile but more pricy than a cheap stein cambium saver. Might be worth getting a multi saver and a backup if you’re using 2 ropes (as your kit list suggests)

I used to use same setup but with an alloy tether and also found it sat back a lot after an ascent. Moved to a chicane and no problems whatsoever, I think the lack of play in the system and the spring loaded mechanism makes a huge difference! I think the RR puts too much bend on the rope (compared with chicane) so it has to drop further to fully engage? 

I’ve got a 60m length of courant squire v2 that I use for srt, bigger trees etc. Tried it ddrt for the first time a couple weeks ago and really liked it, being a static rope means less bounce if it’s doubled over a long distance (if you like that). Would like a spliced eye on one end but Im sure someone who knows what they’re doing can sort this. Only downside is it’s skinny so harder to grip & pull🤷‍♂️

I had this exact issue when I first used the squire v2, but I was using an old (and apparently very worn!) ZZ. Swapped for the new style one abs hasn’t missed a beat since. Only suggestion may be, make sure your ZZ has had a proper good clean (I stick mine in hot water and clean with a toothbrush) as if the links are being hampered slightly it won’t grip so well? 

I’ve had the yellow squire v2 for a short while and so far it’s been great. Feels thin in your hand and definitely has a lot less bounce than the drenaline I was climbing on before, can’t comment on the durability of it yet but pleased so far 

50 minutes ago, Khriss said:

IF yr hauling chip any real distance, yr wasting money.  If yr coming off a job to tip,  possibly yr crew has to wait, or yr a man short or any combination that eats into yr profit. Hence big chip truck option further down yr business road.  K

I’ve just got to perfect the art of squeezing a days worth of chip into a 3.5t van, and take the back roads home ?

in all fairness we used to have a 7.5t wagon at work for carrying big loads, but even that weighed 5.5t dry, so the load carrying capacity wasn’t all that great, certainly not good enough to make having your HGV license and the 6 weekly checks worth it! 

1 hour ago, doobin said:

I beg to differ. I've just 'upgraded' (I say that as I've kept both!) from an LDV Convoy to an Iveco Daily.?

 

I totally agree with the sentiment, however.

 

@Treetom15- my 4k Iveco Daily knocks the spots off a Transit. Physically bigger, tows better, and no 'scent of pikey'. Highly recommended. Plated to tow 3.5t with a full load also- 7t gross train weight. Nice low gearing means it's no struggle and things like reversing are a pleasure. You sit quite a bit higher up compared to a Transit- I find myself looking down on them. Which is nice, as I'm sure I've had my fair share of being looked down upon in the trusty LDV!

Thanks very much bud, that’s basically the input I was looking for!? I was sure the gross trainweight was higher for an iveco than a transit! I’ve found a decent looking van for 5k, crewcab which means tool storage wouldn’t be an issue. If anyone on here knows of anything decent for sale please feel free to send them my way!

To be honest, every job I have anything to remove I hire a ifor Williams tipper trailer with high sides, works grand but it’s cost on every job! Hilux is a crew cab, and it would be seriously un-cost effective to have to go shovel it out 4/5 times a day ? I know I’ll be over loaded weight wise with any tipper, but more just questioning the towing capabilities of both regarding dragging a tracked machine on a plant trailer around. I was always told Ford parts are fairly deer compared to something like an iveco?

In the market for a tipper, I’ve come to the conclusion that putting a chip box on my mk3 hilux will ruin a lovely truck ? I’m not looking at spending big money (£5/6k roughly) 

Basically everything that falls within my budget is usually a Ford Transit or an Iveco Daily. Last tipper van I had for a company was an 08 crewcab transit and I thought it was grand, no frills but just a workhorse. Are the Dailys a better “arb” tipper conversion-I’ve been told that the towing capacity of the daily is higher than a transit, not sure whether to get a tracked chipper or tow behind yet (again, budget dictated!) and would like something that can tow a plant trailer without being stupidly over the limit. 
Any help or advice much appreciated!

I’m lucky in the sense that I have access to a hire company locally who will supply 230tracked or tr6 for £100+vat for the day, which is cheap IMO! Re the cs100’s....I’ve used them, and personally if I was going to spend 2/3k on one I’d rather put that money towards something that will actually chip decent stuff ? they for sure have their place but I’m fairly rural and most of the work is usually decent sized tree/timber so you’d max it out very quick! The 2nd hand market recently seems to have gone crazy, I’ve been offered a 2010 Jensen A540 tow behind for £8400......seems like a lot but it’s a much larger machine?‍♂️

25 minutes ago, Scottish Cleaning Service said:

Why not just buy a new chipper if its for your business then you will have a warranty. I understand its quite a bit of money but there seems to be plenty of work out there. 

Did occur to me, but at the moment I’m in full time employment and I want a machine I can get to pay for itself doing weekends & the odd weekdays. If I had finance on a machine I’d feel pushed to work more weekends etc to pay for it, if I get an older machine then I can do it at my own speed....if that makes any sense?

1 hour ago, Mick Dempsey said:

6k sounds a bit on the high side for a machine as old as that.

I did think that. Like I said, I’m only guessing on age, but based on the hours I figured it must be in that region. 
Comparison wise, anyone have any experience with the Jensen 530 tow behind? They’re usually similar price, I’ve only used the tracked ones so unsure about the tow behinds 

Hi everyone, looking for some advice regarding a chipper for myself setting up first time. Long story short, I’ve been offered a van & chipper by a friend who’s changing profession. It’s a tipper transit (needs a proper arb back building) and a Timberwolf TW150. The chipper has done 2100 hours, not 100% sure on age but I’d imagine with those sort of hours it’s probably 2006/8 maybe? It’s roughly £6k, looks to be in decent condition, not had a hard life for the last few years-basically my dilemma boils down to.....

Is a machine of this age/hours worth the money, or would I be better putting that £6k ish towards something like a Jensen tow behind? Not interested in financing a newer machine, I’m pretty mechanically minded so not worried about changing blades, anvil, servicing etc. Any thoughts much appreciated! 

14 hours ago, Mr. Squirrel said:

I have the big arbortec bag. It’s decent, I can fit a 70m rope, harness with all the gubbins, base tie stuff, wrench stuff and a throwing line in it plus extras. I have fitted all that + a 60m line in too, when needed. 
I’m the complete opposite to treerover, I’d rather have my kit on my back. So everything in the bag and then I’ve got spare hands for a saw, rigging bag or what have you. If your ropes wet your harness is wet too, so you’re taking stuff out to dry it no matter what. 

Exactly my thoughts. I’ve always stored my climbing kit in 1 bag and it hasn’t been a problem, just looking for a decent upgrade! Have you got the waterproof arbortech bag? 

8 hours ago, Treerover said:

I’d advise against storing your rope in with your harness as when climbing it’s nice to ‘try’ to keep your rope in your rope bag as much as you can, to save your groundies using it as a lovely brightly coloured carpet !
Also, your rope invariably gets wetter than your harness so it’s nice to keep them separate .
Your harness kit bag will be heavy enough without the rope in it and balancing the kitbag in one hand and your rope bag in the other makes for easier portage down long gardens .
Ultimately very personal choices but this seems to work for me .
Sport’s Direct sell a rubberised Helly Hansen kit bag for a reasonable price that I’ve had for over a year now which is holding up nicely . Ropes go in one of these excellent recycled bags ....

Those buckets do look ideal! I’ve been using the buxtons cheapy bags for ages, so similar design etc. I wouldn’t be storing ropes in there, they always get hung up out of the kit bag so they don’t get horrible after a wet day? I’m going self employed start of next year and I’m after something that I can keep everything in-so when you’re going out with just a climbing kit & top handle you’ve got it all in 1 or two bags (would still have separate bag for long rope) 

@IronMike that bear valley bag looks brilliant for the money, might have to have a further look at that!

In the market for a decent kit bag for climbing kit, preferably something that I can get at least 1 rope in, harness, ‘biners, etc. The Arbortec ones seem particularly good value, but if they’re anything like the trousers I’d rather steer clear! Just wondering what people use, what they rate, value for money is a big one as I’d rather not break the bank! Cheers all 

12 hours ago, spudulike said:

That is original and L&S sell OEM ORIGINAL equipment plus a few AM spares but are a good supplier as I am a long standing customer or so they tell me

An original OEM top end with no gasket will give 200psi+ and you will KNOW it has good compression when you pull it over.

Have you measured the compression? has the kit been fitted correctly, was the piston the correct way round? Very strange that the OEM part isn't giving decent compression, I have never known it and have fitted a fair number? They usually last 10 years +.....have you measured the ring end gaps, were the circlips fitted correctly, any signs of wear to the piston or cylinder, was the air filter in good condition?

I haven’t measured the compression, unfortunately I haven’t got the kit to hand to do this, I say “low compression”

as it felt easy to pull over and didn’t take a great deal to bog down whilst cutting. Arrow on the piston was pointing to the exhaust port (which I think is correct?) there is signs of wear to the piston, very slight marking on the barrel but I think that’s probably ok? The only thing I HAVE noticed, is when I stripped it down, both crank seals were “wet” and once I cracked the crankcase I noticed slight wear on the crankshaft where the seals sit-not sure if pulling air through there would result in low comp? Spark plug was a “biscuit brown” so wouldn’t appear to be too lean? 

@spudulike this is the pot off the saw, does it appear to be a gen stihl product?

56 minutes ago, billpierce said:

1 hour ago, Treetom15 said:

Nope, was a genuine stihl pot & piston kit from L&S engineers, unless they sell knock off stuff? Where do you usually buy parts etc from, l&s have always been my go-to, but this saw doesn’t seem right. Cheers mate

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Depends which one you bought seems they sell genuine 80quid ones and non genuine ones. Either way worth doing a vac/pressure check when changing as you may have an airleak causing it to run lean. Why did it sieze the first time?

It all came in stihl packing but I suppose that could be duff. It seized because the lad I got it off snapped the air filter screw and it fell thru the carb into the barrel?‍♂️ 

19 hours ago, spudulike said:

You have probably replaced the pot and piston with something costing £20 so now have a saw with low compression and is just not very good.

You should have cleaned the existing OEM bore and fitted a Meteor piston and if you still have the cylinder, try it but you may have to get the piston in from Greece if GHS haven't got any.

Other than that, just fit a new OEM kit, they are around £85 and are the best option to get a tired 200 back up to full tilt! The Meteor kit is good but isn't much cheaper than the OEM one hence I only use the OEM cylinder kit now.

Nope, was a genuine stihl pot & piston kit from L&S engineers, unless they sell knock off stuff? Where do you usually buy parts etc from, l&s have always been my go-to, but this saw doesn’t seem right. Cheers mate ?