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Treetom15

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Posts posted by Treetom15

  1. I’ve been using a 562xp with my old company for about 6 months, sounds like its a better choice than a 362. Not looking to run a 24” bar regularly, just for the odd job that needs it 

  2. As the title suggests, I’m in the market for a new saw. I’ve narrowed it down to these two, fairly similar price and weight. Ideally I’d like something that I can run a 24” bar on for larger trees and climbing work without lugging a big heavy saw around. Anyone got experience of running the two side by side or any pros/cons? 

  3. In the market for a new rope, the company I’m working for is replacing my kit so it’s worth going for a decent one! I climb pretty much 50/50 srt/ddrt so I need something that’s going to be a decent all round rope. Ideally 50m long so it’s a good length for either, something not too bouncy and 11.7mm or less? I climb on a zigzag for both with/without a wrench tether 

  4. Thanks very much Spud, I thought non gen parts were not a good idea (having just forked out for rebuilding a 200t with genuine parts) but thought the question was worth asking as they are so much cheaper! Unfortunately at £200 for a hen stihl crankshaft it’s almost more than the saw is worth, it’s fairly tired anyway so I thought if it was a cheap fix it’s worth a go. 

  5. I’m looking into replacing a crankshaft on an older (2010) ms261 due to the usual excessive bearing wear. I’ve found the genuine ones for sale around £200ish online, but I also found a non genuine kit on eBay for £75ish, has anyone got any experience of the non-gen cranks-are they a waste of money etc? 

    This is the kit I’ve seen-https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Warehouse-Gasket-Set-Crankshaft-Suitable-for-Chainsaw-Stihl-Ms-261-Gasket-Set/123591334344?hash=item1cc69e19c8:g:C4gAAOSwFAtcOb8b

  6. 14 hours ago, TIMON said:

     

    Love the Mk3. ZigZag my only concern with it has always been the black swivel, the small thin shaft that connects the captive ball inside the housing to the ring where the bridge karibiner goes. A failure on that part of the device would be catastrophic. I check mine (and the other ones I inspect) VERY carefully with a spot light and magnifying glass. Cracks in the top links aren’t necessarily going to dump you out of the tree but a failure on the swivel part certainly would.

    The same component on the newer version looks beefier. Maybe the peace of mind would be worth the extra £££ and getting used to something a bit bulkier.

    Re the swivel breaking, there was a video on here of a chap (Patrick Brandt) doing a stress test on a mk3 ZZ, with his Zag wrench tether. He tested the ZZ to destruction in a Ddrt setup and the failure was on the metal housing AROUND the swivel, it’s an interesting watch if you’ve got half an hour free ?

  7. All the parts on the new ZZ that I personally would worry about failing when used for srt (links, swivel etc) look the same on both models. Apart from the body being much more bulky, I fail to see how it’s stronger than the old model? Personally would much rather stick with the old version ?

    • Like 2
  8. Really hope this chap is ok ?

    Any idea who the company they were working for is? A comment on the Facebook post hinted at “a company known for lack of training and safety”, without knowing better it sounds similar to the video of the IDverde lads felling that large pop with no road closure? Best wishes the climber, no one deserves that. 

    • Like 1
  9. I had a ligament replaced in my left knee (MPFL reconstruction) in March last year, so I intentionally got a left footed ascender to help strengthen my knee after physio etc. I get slight pain every now and again but similar to spending a day on spikes, the more you use it (with good technique) you’ll get much more comfortable with it ?

  10. One of the most simple ways to come back in from a limb walk (I found) is to clip your neck tether back in, and drop the tail end of your rope through a fork at the end of the limb you’ve walked out on. Then you hold onto the end of the rope through the fork, pulling your main line tight between the end of the limb and your anchor point. Then walk back in on the limb allowing the end of the rope to run through your hand whilst keeping the line tight, and your neck tether will pull your vt/rw along with you so you basically walk back in on a stationary line. Takes no time to set up and feels mega safe ? 

    • Like 6
    • Thanks 1

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