Steven P

Not sure it would make the land unusable for ever more, or would protect a woodland - see a lot of old cemeteries turned over to parkland, houses or big gardens in converted churches. All the bodies have to be rehoused I believe so that means have to contact relatives for permissions where possible, but they can reuse the land. Trickier though. I might be wrong but a grave is sold as a lease, 100 years I think and then it can be reused no problem, so I suppose getting all the permissions to move a body is mostly that someone else is the lease owner of that grave and you can't do stuff to it while they still are. Natural burials and who would own the ground, if no change of ownership then the land owner could do as they want I think. Ashes far better.

Have to point out that we can't burn supermarket staff. ... I don't think we can burn supermarket staff.... ....can we...?

I'll put another in, 1kg bag of Gram flour in the cupboard that was out of date (but reduced when I bought it) 38p: 360kcal and if the internet works well for me, 9 bags is the same as 1kg silver birch... similar heat to that warehouse kiln dried logs (and also organic so no nastier fumes)

(not sure if I can put a shop name in there, but you know the DIY warehouse store I mean....) Just browsing the internet instead of doing anything productive in my holiday, noticing that a pack of 'kiln dried hardwood logs' are priced at about £2.50 a kg, and then noticed in the shop winter clearance some engineered solid hardwood flooring for an extra £4 a pack and I reckon that is cheaper per kg (reckon a pack of flooring is about 20 to 25kg?). Better value there then, going to burn discounted hard wood flooring this winter...... So to start a thread for a bit of fun, what else can you burn that is better value than a petrol station / DIY store / supermarket pack of kiln dried hardwood? (Noting of course than this is a thread for fun and you should of course follow the manufacturers recommendations and your legal obligations as to what you burn... since we all always do that anyway, not sure why I wrote this sentence).

As above, posting the axe head out might be the way to go. I'd normally always recommend popping in somewhere in person but some of the road trips suggested might be quite a trip (if you want convincing of the finances, my car costs about 25p a mile fuel I think, 4 mile round trip to the £1, courier postage might be £5, so anyone further than 10 miles away (10 there, 10 back) and post would be cheapest option). However I am sure if you get the right handled sent to you you can do it. Noting that I put a new handle on a hatchet this year and really struggled to get a local supplier,

That's just posh mince 'n tatties.... (mince, potatoes, veggies) - though the bramble jelly is a new one to me

London is a long long way from me, I have been there once. Lots of shops if you like that type of thing. However my comment is not on the specifics whether it is right or wrong, but for the occasional visitor there could be a new local rule every time you visit. Might not be an issue in another city but suddenly in the same country, the same car, same set of national rules, you can get fined because of a local rule that only applies in a single city. Either make the rules apply to all, everywhere, or apply to no one. Similarly should apply all other restrictions evenly and fairly to all instead of a single politician going off on a crusade or a whim (here is the chance for the Welsh to jump in with their 20mph speed limits, we should all have that as standard, or none of us should). The last time I drove in London, had to used the Dartford crossing, and pay for that online (no booths to pay), but at the end of a 6 hour journey, no idea of the website to go to. Haven't been back since.

We did this with our Scouts couple of ££ for drop off, a couple more to collect - the village didn't have a council collection, a couple of years at £100 a weekend for the group... and then the council jumped in and did it for free (supply and demand I guess, we showed there was a demand?) The Scouts dismantled the trees and they got burnt - having a chipper would have been a good idea though. If possible get one 'donated' by a local tree surgeon. We did ours in a day and so having a van + logos and chipper parked up on a Saturday would have worked well. As for when - depends how much space you have, which might be the decider, they take up a fair bit of space whole

Aesthetics - it looks better, loads of converted containers out there, loads of knowledge what to do with them, you can buy windows and doors for them, quick and simple to get the internals water tight, logs insulating them from wind, able to insulate under logs, standard sizes and machinery to move them so easy to demonstrate they are temporary structures for planning. I'd be tempted to do similar if I had containers to use semi-permanent domestically

If you are going for a couple more details, if you can get something of the chimey installation above the roof perhaps with a bit of the surroundings in it - any nearby trees, where the roof line is and so on, and approximate height. For the stove itself a reputable brand stove, should work well, if they were known to smoke there would be more questions and over a rane of fire heats. Just one check that the baffle plate is fitted properly - though your sweep would have fitted it as it should have been at leas once in the life of the stove but a quick ckeck only takes a couple of seconds. Last question from me for now, it is a wide door stove, does it smoke into the room continuously or is it smoke dragged into the room as the door is opened and then nothing?

When it comes to draw in the chimney I wouldn't get too hung up about flue temperatures, hot air rises and a candle should create a draw upwards (bit of a tip. if the fire is proper cold - after a weekend winter away for example, I'll burn a couple of sheets of newspaper in there while I bring logs and kindling in just to start the chimney drawing a bit) Temperature is an indication of efficiency of the fire, too cold and slumbering it is inefficient, too hot and again inefficient. Not a perfect measure of course, I bet I could get wet logs and the firebox glowing red hot.

That is pointing more to the chimney (flue / chimney) installation. At the stove end of things, decent clean fire, kept at a decent temperature, plenty of air, nothing in the room to cause a negative pressure into the room. Might need a couple of photos showing how it is installed but I also think that the end result of this thread would be "get an independent installer to have a look" and noting that a lot of sweeps also do installation so a word with them when they do the chimney later in the year to check the installation. However a decent sweep would have highlighted this already if there was a blatant problem. Certainly a taller chimney might help, adds something to the installation to provide firm fixing points

Reading the recent answers - it sounds like you are running the stove well and as you can see, thinking about the installation. Has it always done this? If it is intermittent are there weather conditions that make it worse (noting that we had quite a windy weekend, and then you asked the question....) Chimney height shouldn't make much difference - you get them on narrow boats with a much shorter chimney, but clearance from things around it does (air vortexes and stuff). One thing that came up a few months ago but not applicable here is if you have the room doors shut there night be enough draughts to allow the fire to burn but it is working hard to suck the air in - if the room is sealed, the right weather then the pressure differential can b a problem. So last question for now, do you keep the room door shut?

Apart from that bit of course

Just so much wrong... On the plus side I guess that most will be discarded once the chain gets blunt

This is true, we only have the photos to look at, I guess the OP could come back again with a couple more details and perhaps a couple of closer photos (perhaps the rings that have split). As above, I don't think they have been ripped off based on it being poplar / willow, probably cheaper than running the house on electric heating. If it is something denser / more energy dense then it becomes better value.... however from the photos in the doc. I'm not so sure.

Never read it but the paper says it was forced to engage legal representation defending itself from her threats after they exposed her (is that the right term?).. so want that money back now it has been shown that she is a liar

Primary air is for the wood itself, secondary air lets the fumes combust above and should be open at least a bit too. I don't think you can fully close either of these though. Airwash sends air over the glass to stop it getting so dirty. -Edit, missed this bit- So starting the fire, use primary air when you want the fire to be at the wood to get it going and then you want to burn the volatile combustibles - the secondary air and air wash do that. You can shut down the primary air then. How much smoke comes into the room and what is your fire like? If mine is smouldering then sometimes smoke escapes. However if your flue is generally clear (not sure how much you use the stove) than I guess you burn it reasonably well. Does it do the same regardless of the fire size you have? Big fire or small fire?

Cube would be about 1m3, could be that thrown in the back of a transit, could be a 'builder bag' (0.6m3?). A smaller supply like this would be loose filled in the bag - not stacked in. A larger like 1.8m3 above probably stacked into a cage and you get a bit more that way, or 'IBC cage' quantity the same. Firewood is great with their standard units: (Petrol station grab bag - not sure who would ever buy one though) Builders bag Dumpy bag Ton / Ton bag m3 Cube Cord IBC 'Load' .. dry wood is rarely sold be weight since that depends on how dry it is and then xT (from the tree surgeon) - which is usually a full tree straight off the job - or large portions of one

You should warn me about these things, just watched that on the works computer....

I'd be suspicious of this, probably not oak, possibly poplar - not sure it is willow though (oak bark has more 'aggressive' wrinkles, poplar and willow softer but poplar has a darker core to the wood - from the wood I have been given anyway) 'Partially dry' I'd read as 'not as wet as it was (last week) when it fell down' - the wood looks very fresh, hasn't faded or darkened, the bark is still quite green looking. Can't tell but perhaps if you chopped into the bark with an axe a little, bet it would still be green underneath. Second thing to consider, does it smell of wood or is the smell faded a bit? You have to store this till next season, paying a mortgage for the storage area, could be used for flowers or another shed (we all need another shed). My next thought on this is that it is very clean wood, no sticks, not a lot of sawdust or chipping, no small branches and twigs - is your tree surgeon a very diligent chipper I wonder? Or has this wood been taken from site somewhere, tipped and then loaded again to be punted on to you? That's about the only way I can think of why there isn't a lot of stuff with it. I feel lucky if I only get 1 empty pop bottle in a load.... but here, not even a stray leaf.... Suspect you your tree surgeon was mistaken with what he told you it was. However whether it is good value or not depends on the cost. You now have to split it, some handyman time and a portion to pay for the splitter. I reckon 4m3, not sure it will reach the 6 suggested above, with a splitter say 1/2 day chopping the logs to size, 1/2 day to split it and half day to stack and clean up, with tea breaks (my handyman is 87% tea, 5% biscuits and 7% BS). The value depends on the species, in numbers (had to just check these), poplar is 450kg/m3, willow about 500kg/m3 and oak 740kg/m3 density, this correlated roughly to how good each species is. Willow will give about 10% more heat than the same quantity of poplar. T'Internet reckons an average UK house would use 4m3 of firewood in a year - I assume this is hardwood, or about 7m3 of softwood. and also reckons space heating is about £1000 a year for gas (both for average houses)..... 2 handyman days, + £300: £700? If you get about 5m3 out of this pile than it is sort of on a par with mains gas heating. If you have other heating types (electric, LPG, oil) then it is better value, if you have a cheap handyman or the pictures don't show the true picture again better value. Do the splitting work yourself and I think you are ahead with the fuel bill. Personally I think the tree surgeon has done well, but you haven't been ripped off.

Allegedly and only partly.

Yup, a few comments I saw around the internets was leave them to it, none of our business (same with Ukraine and a lot of other conflicts), but they are never just contained in a nice package, Gaza and Israel, but tend to spill over into the wider world - whether it is people fleeing the conflict, shipping detouring the area, or in Ukraine food exports being cancelled, they affect us all. In that area it doesn't take much for some of the other nations to think they will also have a go.

If you are struggling with a Christmas gift idea why not? All I'd say is go quality whatever you go for, reckon I am too long in the tooth for posing pants, my pant demands are fairly simple, no holes, elastic still works and good to go. After that it is just styling I think - some of us will want to be snug, and some will like a dangle, if saw dust wants to get in, it will get in. Mesh panel along the side? Going to make a massive difference underneath work trousers I think

Just spent the afternoon taking photos of a few things, doubt the photos will do them full justice but that is another aspect, nice things in a shop and people can pick them up, turn them around, see them, but a good photo is needed online - a great photo even better (got plans to make a case with lights for better photos... after the new year now though)