TuscanPhil

They are actually quite strong. 3 or 4mm galvanised steel. I could probably pick the log up by the ladder with them. Nope, just a standard 3/8 semi chisel lo pro ground to 10 degrees. By pith to pith, do you mean through the centreline? All new terminology to me I'm afraid! I cut this one like that as my ladder supports wouldn't have given me much more clearance to cut the top board off first. If I screw the ladder on and pack it out for my next try, then I shouldn't see the banana effect?

New semi chisel lo pro chains arrived today, so I set about re-grinding one to 10 deg so I could mill with it, but I've encountered another issue - my fuel tank cap leaks when the saw is on its side. I'm 99% sure it is the cork gasket so I need to source a new one (or a rubber one) as I've temporarily pinched something from another 2 stroke engine, which slows the leak to a small drip every so often. Any ideas where I can get a 25mm ID 40mm OD (approx) cork (or fuel proof rubber) gasket? I've had a quick look on ebay but nothing pops out at me that isn't a stupid price. This is what I need (or something similar that will do) https://www.ebay.com/itm/292535774410

Having bought myself a 41 year old saw, a new 'chinese' chainsaw mill, some assorted spare parts (for the chainsaw to get it running), I've managed to have my very first go at chainsaw milling this morning! I've been reading this forum (from the beginning - I'm now on page 77 working my way back to page 1) to try and learn from others and see what methods have been used. I've fabricated a couple of brackets to hold my ladder in place for the first cut, but these only held the ladder at the far end - I need to make 2 more for the front end to hold the ladder and stop it moving as I go down the log. I've also made some 'homemade' wedges which are not that great - so propper wedges are on my shopping list unless I make some better ones! Apart from not getting particularly well centered on the log (it's only a 'throwaway' log to have a play on), I found that the saw gap flexed open rather than closing down, as I went along the log - there must have been a lot of tension? in the log? A few pikkies! I made ladder supports out of some dexion and plywood - will make something a bit better as I learn what works and what doesn't. The clamps simply bolt through a hole in the dexion and have an additional nut/bolt to provide some tension as the plate is moved onto the ladder rail. First cut went well to split the log in two (first two milling pics), but when I did the second cut (to make a board) I can see some marks where I must have stopped milling to put in the wedges (3rd milling pic) - is this because I stopped too quickly, too slowly, started too quickly or something else? I set 1.5" on the mill but it cut about 1.75" - no worries, the boards will probably only be destined for some benches around the garden until I get a bit better and can mill for a specific purpose! Might need a bigger bar as well as I have a large Poplar to get through as well as a reasonably large Douglas Fir (see https://arbtalk.co.uk/forums/topic/121764-trees-for-milling-various/ for pics)

This one? Dual and Jack - a Peavey/Cant Hook with optional Jack stand WOODCHUCKTOOL.COM The Dual and Jack Peavey/Cant Hook with optional Jack stand lifts up to 20 inches and rolls up to 30 inches helps you cut and keep your saw sharp. Made in USA. American website?

Not quite sure I follow you - What's the 'Woodchuck' one as I can't see that name anywhere?

Thought I'd post in this forum as it seemed the best fit. I have a new (to me) saw and have also bought a 'Chinese' chainsaw mill to have a play with some felled oaks and other trees I have 'lying' around. In order to help me more the logs to better positions, I'm fairly sure I need a breaker bar / cant hook such as this: Husqvarna Long Breaking Bar With Cant Hook 130cm WWW.TOOLSTODAY.CO.UK <h2>Husqvarna Long Breaking Bar With Cant Hook 130cm</h2> <p>The new design and improved material specification gives a durable and robust product. Forged... I've also seen this tool that might allow me to do a few extra tasks such as raising the log for cross cutting, raising it when milling etc etc. FMLL | Heavy Duty Log Lifter and Saw Horse | Forest Master FOREST-MASTER.COM Buy the Forest Master FMLL Log Lifter. Easily lift and chainsaw large logs into manageable lengths. The FMLL lifts the whole log off the ground at once. Any advice / feedback on either tool or suggestions as to what else to look at? The Forest Master one maybe looks flimsy, so I don't know how long it will last, plus I won't be moving logs on nice smooth concrete surfaces!!

I've had it 'carbon' dated and its manufacture date was 5th March 1979, so it's a 41 yr + aged saw! Tried it out this morning on some wind felled Oak boughs roughly 12-15"dia - it's a bit of a beast! Carries a lot more momentum / inertia in the chain/engine than my baby Husky so a lot more care is required, especially as there's no chain brake! But as it's pretty much destined for milling, it's not too much of a worry. Oh, and (torrential) rain stopped play else I'd still be out there.

2 Bars, 18" (70 drive links on the chain) and 30" (98 drive links on the chain), both 1.3mm and 3/8".

I tried to get the flywheel off a few times, made a makeshift puller, applied 'tension', hit it with a hammer, sprayed it with WD40 (I haven't got any Plus Gas) - nothing would shift it or loosen it (didn't try heat), so knowing the engine would start but just not run (and that was probably down to the carb rubber boot), I was reasonably happy to leave it be. New carb rubber boot arrived today, carb overhaul kit arrived the other day so that had already been rebuilt before today, also a new spark plug arrived, and as it's a wet day, I decided to fit the rubber boot and see if I could get it running again. Success!! Engine idles fine, picks up ok, revs well. I've adjusted the Lo screw to where I think it should be (if anything, slightly richer than maybe it should be) and the Hi jet seems happy with the standard 1 turn out. Again, the Hi is, if anything, on the rich side, so I'm happy to leave it like that until I can get it cutting some wood to see how it does under load. Just need to get some chains ordered now then have a play with some of my timber and see what I can mill with it!! Promise to post results (once it stops raining!) - but in the milling forum.

Great, many thanks! My father was a tool maker by trade (and apprenticeship) and he could (or probably still can) sharpen drills by eye - but I don't have 7 years to learn and he lives too far away to sharpen my drills when I knacker them! Just need to find some spondoolies now...

DO you have any detail son your drill sharpening machine please? Make/model number or photo?

I've already looked on ebay for them or the full chainsaw head - can't see any at the moment, other than a full new head at around £45 from Germany.

I have a Lidl Florabest multi function 2 stroke tool (strimmer, brush cutter, hedge trimmer, pole saw) which is ok, bit heavy, but cheap and cheerful. Sadly, having come to use the pole saw today for the first time (I've had the tool for a few years but never wanted to use the pole saw), it turns out the little pipe that takes the oil from the chain pump to the chain is split and hence pisses oil out before it can get to the bar and chain. Working on the premise that it could be very similar to another small pole saw, does anyone have any idea where I can get a replacement oil pipe from so I can actually use it now that I want to. The cutting head is the same as the one in this video and the pipe is probably about 6" or so long but it not just a piece of pipe as it has rubber flanges to hold it in place, ie it doesn't just push through holes in the tank/casting like a fuel hose would (I have spare fuel hose but it wouldn't fit and be usable for this).

I have the Lidl Parkside one - but then I don't earn a living through my chainsaws and I just process for my own use. Parkside Chain Sharpener - at Lidl UK - www.lidl.co.uk WWW.LIDL.CO.UK Parkside Chain Sharpener - For all standard saw chains with link sizes ¼“ / 0.325“ Convenient and precise sharpening without tensioning

Yes, I think the starter pawls are bolted down, so I could try and rig up a piece of flat bar across the centre and bolt it down on the pawl bolts then 'pressure' it off the centre shaft..... not sure when I'll get chance but probably next weekend.

Good advice! but I'm pretty sure it's too far gone for even that! I don't need the use of the saw (yet) so I'll wait until the new part arrives from the States but I need to get the flywheel off first so I can check out the bits hiding behind that. Any tips? I've tried the 'shock' method (hitting reasonably hard with the other end of the shaft on a firm surface) but don't want to hit it too hard and break anything. I have a 2 or 3 arm puller but the arms are too big to get behind the flywheel (it's more of a car bearing puller). I've got the sprocket off and whilst it seems ok, I'll probably get a new one of those - I'm fairly sure it's one of these - OREGON RIM SPROCKET 3/8 7 TOOTH STANDARD 7 SPLINE 68210 WWW.EBAY.CO.UK Genuine Oregon Rim Sprocket.

Yeah.....I think it's a bit too FUBAR'd for that! I haven't the foggiest how the engine would even run at all with it in its current state! Very 'old' and soft. The bit stuck to the carb is very sticky so that will be fun cleaning it!

Cheers, thanks for looking, the States it is then, just need to check I don't need any other bits before I order to I can combine postage etc. I've also been playing with sidevalve engines (and their timing) since about 1980 and my first car was a Mini with the A series engine, so I'm well versed in contact breaker timing, gaps and their foibles! More fun to come! Got to get the flywheel and clutch off next so I can check the sprocket and also clean up more bits.

Spudulike - may I pick your brains please? Having started to strip down the chainsaw while I wait for the carb kit to arrive (few more days....), I've found another piece that needs replacing (no surprise there!). From the Homelite IPL, I've identified it as part 12348-A which now seems to be 12348B and also UP06556. I can find some USA suppliers, but obviously with a fair bit of time for it to arrive (though could be similar time-frames to the carb kit), so I was wondering if you knew of an 'equivalent' that might fit a Husky or Stihl? It's the rubber boot that links the carb to the cylinder and is made of rubber. The ebay item is: New Carburetor Connector Fits Homelite 450 550 DM50 Replaces OEM 12348B UP06556 WWW.EBAY.CO.UK One 1 carburetor intake boot # 12348B = UP06556. REFER TO PART NUMBER 12348A, 12348B AND/OR UP06556. Bin # UP06556. Everything else seems to be ok so far, though I haven't started to strip the carb yet.. Fuel and oil tanks rinsed out - not much muck in them, any other part removed cleaned and degreased, just waiting for reassembly!

So when tensioning the chain, hold the bar up, then tension the chain so it sits snug(?) to the bar, then tighten the bar clamp nut (or nuts)? Or what's the best procedure?

Hi Rob, thanks for all of your feedback, but I've progressed a little since my last post, as Topchipples knows (and I don't mind the ribbing!). I've bought myself an antique saw, a Homelite 550. Arrived yesterday and I've only had the briefest chance to look it over. Also ordered a 36" mill from the bay of e - should arrive in about 1 weeks time I think. Saw takes an Oregon D096 or D196 mount (or equivalent) but it came with a 30" (no nose sprocket) and an 18" with sprocket (if I have the names correct). Once I've got all the bits and can get the saw running well (it starts and runs but not well currently)and can cut a few boards and try it all out, then I'll probably be in the market for upgrades etc. I've read your thread on chains here: and will work my way through your other posts etc. Cheers! Oh, and I've started a thread on my Homelite in the Milling forum.

Maybe in a week or two - certainly once the film offer comes through though!

Cheers Spud. Saw arrived yesterday and I've had the briefest of brief looks at it. Thrown in some 50:1 and managed to get it to start, but it doesn't like to idle at a reasonable speed (yet)! I've had a quick play with the low jet and idle screw but haven't much time today to play with it. New spark plug on order, carb kit inbound at some point, but I'm sure I'll be able to get it running well enough in the mean time (hopefully!). The 18" bar has a 'rotating nose' on it and the chain isn't that old so will take a sharpen ok. The 30" bar is solid (no rotating nose) and that chain is ....... on its last legs, so I'll get a new semi chisel (for cutting my larger trees/logs) and a ripping chain (for when my chillaskan arrives) on order shortly. Yes, it's an old saw but (hopefully) I didn't pay too much / over the odds for it, and if I can mill some of my own timber for hobby projects, it's not a lost cause!

Risking life and limb, I've bought an aged Homelite 550 chainsaw but am still waiting for the parcel man to bring it to me. Product sheet here: https://www.leonschainsawpartsandrepair.com/uploads/3/9/7/9/39792537/homelite_550_chainsaw_product_specifcation_sheet.pdf In preparation for trying to start it, the product sheet says 32:1 or 16:1 for fuel:oil mix, so should I just throw some 25:1 into it or what would you recommend (apart from throwing the saw in the nearest skip)? It also seems I can get carb overhaul kits (Walbro SDC carb, kit D10/K10 - SDC) so that's one less thing to worry about. Wish me luck - I might need it!!

Thanks - haven't the foggiest (yet). It's a Homelite 550 - quite old by all accounts but I'm told it runs and most spares seem to be available, so fingers crossed!