maybelateron

Good luck in the future.

Which conservation area is it?

Got to site 8am today, did some crown lifting (ready made sombrero above us), cut some Laurels back. One lad climbed into a Sweet Chestnut and removed large deadwood sections. Two of us stayed under a Lime and used hand saws to dissect out epicormics from around TWO metal fences next to it. Yes, two - one is modern and galvanised, the one nearer the tree is old and rusty, decades old. Tomorrow all team members can start early, so 5am at base, on site 5:30 using hand tools, then mini digger 8am to pull the fences out of the tree! Home by noon, having worked with big sombrero all morning.

Exactly what we are doing today. I am taking chainsaw trousers and normal trousers. I will do the little bit of chainsawing needed, then get out of the chainsaw trousers. The pull ropes for two straight fells will be installed with the rods, or a climber in shorts! Also a short day and knock off.

Even if this hot weather, with very hard ground, we lost traction in a field, trying to get up a mild slope. As soon as the dew was gone, no problem. Needless to say the vehicle was empty at the time; if it had some weight in it would have gripped better.

I have an Iveco Daily 2.3, 146bhp. Advantage of the Iveco is it is built on a proper C section chassis, not thin box section that will rot due to corrosion inside the chassis. Yes, I would expect the bigger 3 litre to last longer and be better. I would not place a massive amount of faith in the AWD aspect of the Transit. Tyre tread type is pretty important, and a tractor/Land Rover type 4x4 can rescue a 2wd tipper.

I am still in the lucky position of being able to decline to quote for jobs that I don't want to look at. I guess this is partly because we have a large list of regular tall (ish) hedge customers for the Autum/Winter (tall hedges not tall customers), which is a pain when we are over busy, but a bonus when things go quiet.

Depends on what it costs you. When I set up 22 years ago I found word of mouth worked well. A few simple things like return every call, turn up when you say you will to do a quote, turn up when you say you will to do the job, leave the place tidy, put your quote in writing with a copy of your insurance, will go a long way to beating back the cowboys, at least for customers who want, and will pay for a professional level of service. Best of luck👍

There's always someone able to offer a horror story about a particular item. I'm on my second TD5 Disco 2 auto, been very reliable. Yes the chassis has had a bit of welding, and if I keep it for more than another three years I will probably have a galvanised chassis fitted - it has only done 105K miles, and the TD5 will do another 100K if looked after. The garage I use say stick to low mileage older vehicles with less electronics to go wrong, and I agree. The disco will tow 3.5T, it is excellent off road with all terrains fitted. It is just good value for money, unlike the overpriced Defenders now they have such a cult following.

Apologies if this has been covered before, but I don't recall it. I have for many years used my old 1996 Aerial K16T, trailer mounted MEWP which is well maintained, no modern electronics to speak of. I have been very happy with it, but I am considering replacing it now, but it has to be better. It must be tracked, so I have better access to awkward sites. It must have a working height of 16m or more, and outreach must be 6.5m or more. It must be light enough that I can tow it on a trailer with my 3.5 ton towing capacity. Some of the machines within this spec will just fit onto my Ifor GX126 plant trailer, but if I need to invest in a longer trailer so be it. I have found the fly jib invaluable for dropping down into a crown, so it must have a fly jib. I guess straight sticks are ok for dismantled, but no so good for some pruning jobs. I am happy to invest in a new one, or a goos condition used one. Not sure about lithium ion ones, have used a hired one once. Prefer dual power, so early morning in residential area can be quite, then start the engine a bit later. There is an Oil and Steel 1765 on ebay at present - any experience of that make to pass on?

I've learnt something new. l didn't realise that a low compression saw would be worse at hot starting. Is that because the cylinder expands more that the piston and rings as it warms up?

A few months ago I had to decide between 500i and 661, to replace my old 660. I opted for the 661 as this can run the 36 inch bar. I can still manage the 661 from the basket of my MEWP, and for a small number of cuts if I really have to when climbing (462 far preferable though). Not suggesting the 500i is not good for one moment though, but never actually used one.

I last submitted applications on 22/5/22. There were a few subtle differences if i remember correctly, but no problem getting the two submissions in.

Interesting thought that. As a small firm that never occurred to me, but I have heard it said many times that the biggest contractor in our area take exactly that approach, and all the emergency work makes up for lower priced bread and butter work.

Couldn't agree more with that.

A valid point there.

Regarding kinetic splitters my understanding is that these are only for use on seasoned timber; something to be aware of?

A very good question about ownership of trees/the problem. I have had problems on several occasions getting anyone to "own up" to being responsible for trees in "no man's land". Money is the root of all evil, as the old saying goes.

Yes, like most of us, I have learnt to just say no. Reassurances about nothing adverse in the pile is about as reassuring as customers who tell you there are no birds nesting in their hedges in Summer.

I read all the threads and documents I could find when the 2 rope issue was at consultation stage. My eventual understanding was that you did not have to have two ropes that could get you back to ground, rather that at all times you should have two separate anchor points, one rope to each of them. I also understood that it was regarded as acceptable to be connected by only one rope when doing a changeover, as long as you weren't advancing as well. For years prior to all this I have through preference climbed with one long rope (zigzag these days), one short strop 3.5 - 4m, and one long "strop" of 9-10m. The long strop is nothing like as cumbersome as a full rope, yet long enough to reach another anchor point, whenever one is available. The only time I ever use two full ropes is if my long strop won't suffice. Earlier this year we lopped/pollarded a Weeping Willow, and one of the main branches was much easier to access by installing two ropes from ground level. I'm sure many of you would have managed without the second rope, but at 62 I have to use any trick that helps!

Mmmm

I have a 16m mewp, and if it makes sense I use it whenever I can.

Why not?

They'll hit the windows truck etc if they are close enough. Brash end first saves dents in a lawn.

Do you include August Hunnicke in the 99%?