CutterSy

We fell with a digger everyday, but we use a hawk fork not a bucket. Less chance of it slipping off the tree. Nearly always bore to set hinge and release the back-strap. Safest way to hand fell big hardwoods imo

The Pfanners are the toughest pants out there, but I find them too hot this time of year. I use the lightest pair I can find for summer, even if they only last a couple of summers. I know the pfanners will be there in the autumn

There are loads of videos on how to do it. Tree Monkey does a good one if I remember. It’s easy to do, but everyone has slightly different methods, so can’t always count on comparing numbers to what others have.

The Oregon 3/8 chain has a taller cutter than the stihl chain. That’s why it specs a larger file. Interestingly the stihl 13/64 files are boxed as 5.2mm and the Oregon 13/64 are 5.0mm. In reality I’ve seen people get either chain to cut fine with either file, it’s down to preference. I prefer the 5.0mm ones myself.

I just ground down an old socket so it has 3 prongs like the husky tool so I could use a breaker bar. I found it frustrating using a hammer to knock it off, and high chance of damaging something in the process.

Yes that’s right, file down the flywheel key to allow the flywheel to advance a few degrees.

Both saws respond really well given the right treatment. 461 benefits from some ignition advance, the muffler is easy to do as well. 560 has transfer caps so you can easily work the upper transfers, be very careful with the intake as they can’t really be widened because of the piston skirt. The muffler is a bit more of a pain because it doesn’t separate like the 461, I just cut out as much of the baffle as possible and open up the exit. Lots of info out there. Everyone does it slightly differently, the only way to see what works is to try and test.

What saw is it that you are wanting to port? I feel I should warn you, porting saws is addictive, once you go down this rabbit hole running a stock saw is just boring! Its a good plan to just smooth out the ports first to get a feel for it, do a muffler mod as well. You will see gains from just that. If you let us know what saw you’re planning to port I can help you with any knowledge I have of it.

I’ve used one of the manual ratchet ones quite a bit. It requires a lot less effort to tip a tree over than banging wedges. I like it for felling dead ash as there is less shock induced to the tree so less likely to drop branches on you.

Well that was a lot to digest. I’m not familiar with the models of saw you are modifying so it’s difficult to visualise, pictures would help. If you want to dive down the rabbit hole of porting have a read of some of the links in this thread: Chainsaw porting thread links | Outdoor Power Equipment Forum OPEFORUM.COM Links to porting threads in one place. Please no banter there's plenty of places for that.Feel free to post your favorite thread link. Here are some... ‘How’ to mod a muffler depends on the design and what will fit under/ around covers etc. I usually either add a ‘pipe’ by brazing on a piece of steel tubing, or add a deflector by brazing on a formed piece of sheet steel. I generally either put big holes in or remove the baffle. There are no hard and fast rules, you just need to experiment and see what works for you. I find the more ported cylinders benefit from a more open muffler, but it’s all a balancing act. The more air/fuel that goes in, the more needs to get out (within reason)

The one I use is a very positive engagement and will push the 200hp tractor along in neutral. Only time it’s needed is when I’ve got a full load on, so yes it gets you out when loaded. I would imagine if the trees are too worn it wouldn’t work as well, but haven’t found it a problem yet (trailer is 3.5years old)

I use a 14t Farma drive trailer at work. It’s great, but only really able to use it as a get you out of the proverbial. The speed of the motors only drive the wheels at the speed of just over idle in first gear. So would probably take all day to get up that hill. Don’t get me wrong, it’s very good and has got me out of trouble many times. Sounds like a trailer with hub drive would suit you better. Other trailers may have a proportional valve or something to speed up the drive, I only have experience with this one.

Reg clearly didn’t care what happened to that saw as he stated at the start. Do what you want to your own saws, I’m sure if your careful you’d get away with it a bunch of times. But if you do this be prepared for the possibility of needing to rebuild the engine. To me it’s not worth the risk, for the sake of taking the muffler off and doing it properly.

To each their own, if it’s your own saws and you know the risks then fine. I would never do it on the saw and spend a good amount of time making triple sure there is no swarf left in there! I tend to split the muffler where possible to get better access to the baffle, it’s not always the best option to gut it completely though! Depends if other port work is getting done as to how much to open it up, take it too far and you loose gains. I use chipper spec ear defenders now!

Please tell me you didn’t just drill a hole in that muffler with it still attached?!