stewmo
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Everything posted by stewmo
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Thanks Do you mean the bearing on the crankshaft?
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Good idea thanks
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Should there be any movement in the clutch drum? It moves in and out between the clutch and worn gear. If you look closely at the two photos. Thanks
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Yeah they don’t have the interest right now apparently Thanks
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Hi all Am struggling to find a PTI in the south west. Does anyone know of anything? Thanks
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I’ve climbed a lot of Ash with dieback now. Probably every week since September. They are unpredictable in their response in the wood I’d say. Some look knackered in the tips but the wood is fine, holds a hinge, etc others the wood will not hold a directional hinge, branches just fall off. It can be tricky work but I don’t feel like I’ve been in any real danger from any of the trees I’ve done. Just be sensible with your tip is and how big you go. Some clients just want to remove dead wood but it seems like an expensive route to me. Once the disease is established I can’t see a way back for the individual tree unfortunately. If targets are high value, it’s got to go, and if there is a bunch along a road the most economical way to do it is in one go and I would have thought most land owners and councils are thinking this way.
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Yeah I used a hex and a spanner. I had to buy hex as couldn’t shift the clutch last time I changed the needle bearing. Works much better! Will do the chain break technique as well. Thanks everyone. Hopefully up and running again
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Yet to fire it up. Ran out of time today. Manana manana haha
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There is definitely less play in the new clutch. I don’t know what’s ‘normal’ as such
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Clutch, clutch drum, sprocket and needle bearing all new
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What do you reckon? Can’t see how it could be any different
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Yes exactly. Real world scenarios I’ve rigged big sections on 16mm rope. Now unsure how safe anything is. And then just to further complicate, this from the AA with a Treemangineers research showing 8 x mass plus 500kg. Who knows haha
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Thanks for that. That’s quite interesting! How long ago did you do your ticket? I really don’t get it myself, the size of the bits are tiny. No one could possibly rig like that. Even with your x11 it doesn’t really make much difference. It’s the safety factor on the ropes mbs, 5:1 rather than 10:1 that frees you up a bit. With my example above the limit on size of rigged piece would mean that once the stem was approaching 2ft you simply couldn’t rig anything negatively without double blocking and even then it would be tricky.
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Thanks Blah Safety factor I thought it 5:1 but apparently it 10:1 for the ropes. The 11 is the anchor force but also factor of safety as well is 1.3 so 14.3. See photo.
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What’s yours? [emoji106]
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Where am I going wrong then? I can’t figure it out. Thanks
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Ressurrection of my thread here..... Been going through rigging calculations on my rigging course and wondering am I correct! So I looked up biggest rigging rope I could see quickly - 20mm English Braid has a MBS of 11,000kg Safety factor for ropes is 10:1 (5:1 for hardware) so that leaves me with 1100kg as a safe working load. So for positive rigging I can lower up to 550kg (dividing by 2 as using a pulley) And for negative rigging I can lower up to 77kg (dividing by 14.3) This seems like a small lump for a big rope? Looking on the log mass charts that's a 40cm diameter green oak log with 60cm length. I see plenty of much larger lumps coming off on people's pics/vids!
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It’s a little tricky reading your post because of the formatting but I think I get what you’re saying. Maybe I got something wrong after changing the rim sprocket last time and it’s been off since then, causing the wear. Maybe it is a manufacturing issue? How to tell?
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Thanks again Whole thing seems a bit strange but think best plan is to change it all. Fingers crossed
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So replace the lot then?
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Well I feel like I get chain tension right, I find it’s often running slack and nip it up but not too much. Had a look at clutch and what I notice is shown in the photo below. No notches but clearly not flat. I presume it probably should be?
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So I got the bearings etc off. The clutch drum is marked on the inside by the needle bearing (see photo). That can’t be right can it? Should it be replaced? To my eye the clutch itself is fine. Thanks
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They are plastic on this model. But the first one last nearly two years and this a month. So either I’m unlucky or something else caused the first failure and now this one.
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So got the clutch off and needle bearing gone again. Bought from L&S engineers so shouldn’t be eBay cheap surely? And yes it’s jammed the clutch housing (if that’s what it’s called) onto the shaft. So tips on how to get it off and... What’s going to be underlying cause of two needle bearings going one after the other?
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Just putting on for interest. An Instagram ad lead me to these wee chippers, they even have a road tow for £1700! Crytec CRYTEC-POWER.CO.UK Crytec
