Andy4D

What about some ice hockey pucks, they're about £2 a go on ebay if you buy a pack. I've used them for lots of engine mounts including a 300+bhp E30 turbo Might be a little on the hard side for this job but for less than a tenner it might be worth a go?

It'll be straight in the scrap yard unfortunately. As they're not identified they're easy money for thieves. Replace with pipe from your local motor factors if you can get away with it.

Do you just need it for this one big tree? How big is it? Maybe someone (possibly me) could lend you a big saw.

Looks like the welmec machines are 7 to 10 hp (or more for the pto ones). Definitely think this is something I could make myself. I'll post pics if I get chance to do it. Ta

Just thinking it's something I could make myself, as much as a project as for the finished piece of kit. Think I've worked out rough sizes, number of teeth, blades etc from the vids. Typical input speed and power would be useful, to size an engine or motor, and the appropriate belt drive ratio to the gears. Cheers

Anyone with one of these willing to post any measurements or specs? I think I'm wondering if I could make one to run of a small engine or maybe even 3 phase. Think I can figure most sizes off the video on page 1 but input speed and power would be useful so I can figure out if it's doable for cheap. Thanks.

Coil gap seems to have sorted it. Was tight on a .2 feeler, now it's just dragging on a .3mm. Put it through about 2ft connie half a dozen times on sunday no problem. Thanks Eddy

I'm conused, what's the issue? If you can't ski or board round that you shouldn't be on even a dry slope.

If you're looking for a mig welder - I've use and recommend a Sealy Mightymig 140XT. It'll happily do anything from bodywork to about 4mm, and thicker with the right prep. I regularly weld 6mm stuff, with either a v-prep or fillet welding from both sides with a wide root gap. I get CO2 in a small 'pub bottle' for £20 (after refundable deposit) from my local welding supply place. I'm not sure of the volume/weight but it's waist height and about 6" diameter, for me this works out cheaper than a rental bottle as I only use 1 or 2 a year (and a f**k load cheaper than disposables). A 'hobby' torch is superior to a euro torch as the gas flow is controlled by a valve in the torch rather than a solenoid in the machine, this means you can apply pre and post gas. You'd have to spend a lot on a eurotorch mig that allowed you to set that on the plant rather than controling it manually at the torch. FWIW I've been welding 12 years since I bought my '71 beetle. C&G in MIG, Ally TIG, Steel Gas&Braze. Threw away a Clarke 130mig before I got my Sealy. I now work as a welding specialist at a rather large aircraft manufacturing company, providing welding advice to manufacturing and approving welders to CAA requirements (no mig there but you get the gist).

It seems to pull over ok if I remember the decomp button? Is there an easy way to test if it's timing though? The coil gap is at 0.2mm. I'll check the flywheel/key tomorrow. Hopefully easy fix for the Mitox then Thanks.

On my bench today was a Husky 235 xtorq I picked up for £10 siezed. Turned out a crank bearing had failed and killed the seal hence the sieze. £30 on New piston (Golf as I couldn't find anything better) and bearings and it seems to run well Next problems: Partner P100 dies once warm. Piston looks in good condition looking through both ports and rings aren't stuck. I don't think it's loosing compression when hot as I can drop start without the sissy button cold but it tries to rip my arm off after it dies. I'm wondering if this could just be way too rich? A Mitox which doesn't like to rev from idle, will rev and run ok by feathering the throttle a bit first, wondering if this is just lean on the low circiut? Cheers

Remove warning/h&s labels from everything and let Darwin take care of the rest

I've got this manual bender I use for making roll cages and wishbones....think the die I have for wishbones is 3/4", that'd be about right for a full wrap handle? The bend radius I've got might be a bit big though.

Nice one. Pic of my lathe below...I've just realised from the date stamp on the pic I've had it 5 years and i've still not treated it to levelling feet (jack screws?) or trued up the tail stop