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NorfolknGood

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Everything posted by NorfolknGood

  1. NorfolknGood
    I must get round to dusting off my old Myford lathe and make one up in mild steel and see if it's hard enough if it is I can knock out whatever sizes needed. Been busy making posh firewood etc so not got round to it yet
  2. NorfolknGood
    There are 4 collets available and are marked with corresponding shank size: no rings – 1/8 inch (480) 1 ring – 1/32 inch (483) 2 rings – 1/16 inch (482) 3 rings – 3/32 inch (481). (I cheated and Googled )
  3. NorfolknGood
    I assume 6mm shank for the die grinder chuck? What diameter eyes? Depth? Let me know what you want and when I get the materials and time I will knock one/some up
  4. NorfolknGood
    I guess ordinary low carbon steel would do so could make one up on my lathe?
  5. NorfolknGood
    One tool I love to use is my farriers rasp
  6. NorfolknGood
    Show where is that? Carvers there?
  7. NorfolknGood
    my bad, just remembered I carved about 4-5 small wood spirits on 2 1/2" posts before the owls so about 9th thing I did. My 1st (on the right) and 2nd carvings. I had a 1/2" chisel and Stanley knife and a knackered high speed small drill like a Dremel but only 3% of it's power
  8. NorfolknGood
    It's not perfect the shoulders should protrude a bit more. I did my 1st carving about 2 months ago the Meercat was my 4th carving the other 3 being owls. Chainsawed away the majority then angle grinder with flap disk in and a drop of chisel etc to get the finished cat. More to come
  9. NorfolknGood
    Here is my 1st and only Meercat (by attachment I don't know how to put pictures in posts )
  10. NorfolknGood
    Does that depend on the size of carvings you will be doing or generally too small for a detail saw? I am a bit of an old woman and running a chain slack due to no sprocket in the nose of a carving bar sounds scary to me. I rather like the narrow (not as narrow as a carving bar) bar on the MS150 which has a sprocket and normal chain tension
  11. NorfolknGood
    Some how It cut ok with the piston worn and hitting the top of the pot and 1 ring seized so I don't think cutting ok is necessarily a sign of good health with the saw.
  12. NorfolknGood
    New needle bearing arrived today and I fitted it. No discernible difference in sound but much less movement in clutch outer. Perhaps I'm being a bit fussy about sound, it cuts very well
  13. NorfolknGood
    What I have always done with my RC aircraft engines is run a tank through them without putting the engine under full load i.e. flying the thing or in a chainsaws case pulling high torque cutting wood. I let the engine warm up to working temp and keep the revs altering throughout the whole rev range. I have heard of some people running the 1st tank using mineral oil as it speeds up bedding in but prefer to run slightly higher fully synth content for the first 2 tanks with mixtures set correctly rather than slightly rich as some people do. A rich engine is not burning all the fuel which will wash the lubrication for any moving parts. That's my way with any small engines anyway right or wrong
  14. NorfolknGood
    I'm not convinced Thanks Spud I will investigate further and nice tip ref LH thread . Just looking at self employment status so as and when I sell anything I'm all legal and above board, I cant be dealing with looking over my shoulder all the time
  15. NorfolknGood
    Then it can stay clanking I'm not rich! ref hammering off clutch......... yup I can see how the crank could be bent now I was assuming people had a lil finesse I wont be giving it any grief for teh 1st couple of tanks I will let teh new rings bed in 1st. Maybe worth me taking a video of it starting and running so you chaps can tell me if it sounds as it should or anything untoward ?
  16. NorfolknGood
    From where? what equipment might I want to run other than the chain I have on for blocking out with my carvings As you can tell I'm a right newbie
  17. NorfolknGood
    I do have a DTI so will check the crank but cant really see how it could be bent. So clutch shoes on central boss............ the only thing that would allow them to move would be the springs wouldn't it? do I need an entire clutch assembly or just parts? STIHL 026/MS260/024/MS240 ETC CLUTCH ASSEMBLY NEW | eBay I forgot to say which sprocket type it's the same as: STIHL 026/MS260 CLUTCH DRUM/SPROCKET 7 TOOTH | eBay
  18. NorfolknGood
    Well for the sake of a few quid (£2.90) and 2 mins work I will replace the bearing I did notice though that the clutch housing appeared out of round when I spun it by hand but when running the saw and the clutch engaging by slowly increasing the revs it does not judder it works as it should
  19. NorfolknGood
    New piston and rings fitted wow talk about increase in compression! Slight rattle type sound but not like before and when the clutch comes in and spins the chain the rattle stops so must be in clutch. I checked visually for leaks/cracks in everything and set the carb to 1 and a tad turns on both needles and set as necessary when running. Regarding cause of problem in the 1st place I did notice the pot gasket had a break in it so potentially been drawing in air there which could cause a lean run and partial seize.......... new gasket fitted A chain catcher has been fitted which was missing 1 last thing needed is a replacement top hat type washer that holds the lhs of the brake lever, it's missing right now. Engine starts and runs very well now but having back issues I need that decompresser valve now I have compression! Many thanks chaps for all your input it's been a great help
  20. NorfolknGood
    I can do the carb and tank vent but no facilities for the rest
  21. NorfolknGood
    I thought that but I was assured by a fella that has been working on Stihl's on a daily basis for years. I would have gotten the piston you mentioned but went the easy route and threw £ at the problem which I'm not able to do often Normal checks being check for play on everything, make sure air is getting round cooling fins etc and to make sure plug right heat. Fuel mixture correct on carb and mixed in can. Anything else I missed?
  22. NorfolknGood
    I just took a look at meteorpiston.com ref their pistons but didn't understand the lingo even in English so I have ordered a OEM Piston Assembly 44.7 mm £77. The bore has cleaned up ok with a flap wheel in a drill without ruining the chrome all looks good.
  23. NorfolknGood
    Piston has a 1mm taper on the exhaust side narrowest on the skirt I guess that means a new bloomin piston to I also hear the after market ones are not to be trusted.
  24. NorfolknGood
    I pulled the barrel off and top ring is stuck at the exhaust port and has left a lil slip in the bore and a slight scuff on the piston. I will report back once I investigate further.
  25. NorfolknGood
    Just blown everything out with an airline and started her up again. Rattle is still there with chain brake on and I now feel it's more of a clatter than rattle !!! I'm thinking needle bearing or word wrist pin?

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