Dryar123
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Everything posted by Dryar123
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Hi, We have a Jensen A530t 2007 model. Can anyone help with service advice. 1. How do you drain hydraulic oil to replace with fresh. I have accessed filter etc by removal of the side panel. Is there a specific drain plug for the system ?. 2. Flywheel drive belts are loose. I understand you can adjust by undoing engine mounts and resetting . I've taken a good look but can't work out how to proceed. Anyone got any photos or guidance. 3. There is an inline fuel filter in the engine bay. Does this model have a secondary screw on filter. Any help very much appreciated. Cheers.
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Can I just clarify the current position. I surrendered my 2510 at the earliest opportunity having opted to receive the temporary loan of a new saw. To date I have still not received the loaner . Am I right in thinking that some of the 280's have now been sent out.
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For all those 2510 owners... I have it on good authority that there is currently a stop notice issued by the manufacturer which means that they are not generally being sold by retailers. It appears that there is a potential design flaw with the exhaust that is causing concern. It seems possible that in the not too distant future there may be a general recall. My 2510 has a carburettor problem. Echo have been very helpful and offered to replace when they have further information concerning the recall.
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All. I've been told today that Echo are having problems with the 2510 and are considering a recall. I've had one since release and have been impressed with size and power etc. However my particular one has been back to supplier twice as it keeps cutting out when you come off the gas. I've had a replacement carb and just been offered my money back which I've accepted. I was informed that others have been having similar problems. I will definitely replace with a 2510 but am happy to bide my time if they are to be uprated. Anyone else heard similar or experienced like problems ?. Its a real personal shame as I rate it as a climbing saw.
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We own one. What do you want to know..?
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Good Morning. I have been asked to remove some conifers for a family friend in Clevedon. I reckon I will generate a couple of loads of chip. Can anyone help with a tip site locally to save me a drag over the Mendips. Cheers, Simon.
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I did the course last year. I understand what you are saying. It is however only a matter of becoming familiar with the system. Go onto Myerscough website. Look for student and staff links then select Bloom learning space. All correspondence will be there. The tutor Tom Devine is really helpful and you will get weekly learning modules to work through. It can be a bit of an uphill struggle to start but you will soon get to grips with it. I wouldn't bin it just yet . I learnt tons which has been real useful when dealing with customers. Hope this helps a bit. Cheers.
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Bought one the other day. I,ve whacked a bit of Poplar and some Oak with it thus far. First impressions are that I like the Ergonomics. The handle has a nifty palm support which is dead comfortable. Cuts well out of the box. Its all plastic looking but sturdy enough. The only thing that I found thus far that is a bit painful is that the diameter of the filler cap is dead tight with my combo can nozzle. In view of the price I can live with that. It is significantly cheaper than a 201t. No regrets so far.
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Take a look at there Arb Association website. You'll find versions on there.
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Asian Hornet possibly. A non indegenous species that is heading our way. Not at all Bee friendly as they hang around outside hives attacking the occupants. That's my go.
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Am I missing something. Just took delivery of my New Zig Zag, Why are you dropping down from a 13mm rope. I,ve just played with the ZZ and it seems to run fine on my climbing line. Albeit I only ran it on an un-tensioned tail poking out of my rope bag.
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Might be do able…PM sent
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Photo
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Attached photo of screw splitter I bodged together last yr. Cone, shaft and gearing together with 15hp Kohler rotator engine all sourced from E bay. I calculated max rpm is about 550-600. All driven by one V belt. I had to do a little engineering to sort drive out but it wasn't too hard. I found all components from Poland to be of a great quality for the price. I have split many tons of wood with this and still have my fingers but you have to be very careful with it as it definitely has the potential to bite. The engine is in truth underpowered for anything either over about 8 inches in diameter or very knotty. At full tilt you can easily split bags of the right wood at a very productive rate. Much quicker than my hydraulic powered set up which I use for larger rounds. Hope this helps. Cheers
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Morning.. I,m also interested in a bit at the right price. Again like Arnie no too far away. Pm me with details. Cheers.
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All, I climb using a Stein Plasma helmet which I personally find very comfortable. Im thinking of buying a clear visor to replace mesh . Ive tried mesh goggles but don't like them. Any obs welcome. Cheers
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Horses for courses. As a newly qualified 30/31 there is still lots to learn about using a saw..If you have a good mentor then fine but if you are looking to find your own way I would personally get a good solid saw like a 260. Find one second hand and learn to sharpen by hand. As you get more confident I think you will be able to answer your own questions about going auto tune and bar size. As posted in this thread saw sizes are very dependant on type of job. For ground work as a general purpose rig I always pick up my 260 on a 16 bar. I have got a couple and just find they are bullet proof old school with good grunt. I wouldn't personally look much further. And without doubt sharpen by hand. Its therapeutic !!
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when is it OK to physically restrain a member of the public
Dryar123 replied to likeitorlumpit's topic in General chat
It would be hard to quantify but two questions need to be asked. Was it necessary and was force used reasonable. Clearly if you man handled an old dear to the floor to prevent her walking past a chipper then the answer would be no. Saving someone's life could justify quite extreme force but is very scenario specific. It's a very similar consideration to using force in criminal matters. Section 3. Criminal Law Act 1967 permits the use of force which needs to be justified. And yes if someone strikes you then you can hit back.Provided you ask the two same questions. Was force used necessary and reasonable. You can lawfully act in self defence and even get in first in the circumstances allow.. -
The trick is to remember it ain't all just about climbing. Older heads and life experience can compliment necessary skills in this industry. You won't have a business if you climb like a demon but are impolite, unhelpful,unprofessional and worst of all sins not punctual.. Tree surgery is all about teamwork. Pick your climbing jobs as you fancy them and make sure your team is balanced enough to allow youth and enthusiasm to shine when the job merits. Meanwhile from the point of maturity hold the ship together and attend to all the important logistical efforts that keep the ship afloat and your customers giving you great references. I reckon there's a place for everyone .....
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I completely get the balance v bearing argument. I'm just finding it hard to consider chipper blades as critically engineered components. During their working life when the chipper is on full tilt and the anti stress kicking in the edges of the blade and angles of attack take a beating. It seems to me that they must become imbalanced very swiftly and lose their efficiency. Just like a chain there might be a strong argument to self dress the cutting edge regularly to actually minimise resistance. Thanks for the advice so far. Really interested in everyone's perspective. I know it's steep but I recently got quoted £40 for a regrind of a 4 inch set of blades. I'm always looking to take some overheads out of the business. Cheers
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Out of interest. Does anyone self sharpen their chipper blades. I've seen sets that have worked when the edges have been pretty mashed chewing up stones etc. I know they look good when properly ground to manufacturers spec but they quickly come away from this when regularly used. I feel quite happy that I could put a 45 degree cutting edge on a set with a bit of elbow grease and they would do the job. Is getting them re ground by an engineer really that critical. Cheers.
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Thou shall not travel by night and forsaking all alarm systems covet thy neighbours hand tools.
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I'm amazed that people are even considering doing it for free. Before you even put a saw into the wood you are running at a loss. You got to kit yourself out,buy fuel , get insured ,travel etc and set that off against the time it takes when you could be getting paid to work. When the woods on the deck you still have to cross cut ,cart away and process. It all takes time and whilst firewood can be readily sold you got a lot of ground to make up to spin a profit. I know my daily costs and trust me a few cubes of seasoned firewood is not a good exchange.
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86 metres
