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Coletti

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Everything posted by Coletti

  1. Coletti

    Tiny echo!

    Not sure about wet weather bug mine didn't like sucking a lump of snow through the recoil starter. I'm assuming it fired it to the air filter
  2. Did this with exactly the same mewp, thankfully we were on an mod base and one of their 6x6 lorries with all difflocks on pulled it out a treat
  3. I've an m500 I need to move on, I need to have a look at it first though. Everything was fine when it went into storage but for some reason the drive isn't working at the moment. I'll see what I can sort of you're interested
  4. Rotary will be faster and less taxing on the tractor but doesn't leave as good a finish as a flail so depends on the finish you want to leave and how long you want to spend really. Not had a lot ofdealings with rotary toppers but I can say that and 8' flail is plenty enough for a 115hp tractor so you'll need a bit smaller
  5. If you'd have bought the truck and had it registered then changed body there wouldn't have been an issue. Reaisticaly its no differsnt to any vehicle modifications eg body kit, exaust, engin mods etc and you wouldnt exlect to have to tell vosa about those. A good example would be to look at the length people go to modifying landrovers fpr off road, considerably changing the size and overall weight. I think making something your self is frowned upon but when it boils down to it it all depends on what materials were used and how well it has been put together to be honest
  6. I'm afraid you have been slightly miss informened. As a new, unregistered vehicle it has to have type approval when it is registered which yes, does involve the dvsa or dvla (im not entirely sure which it is from memory) but...If a vehicle has already been registered and has its type approval, a body change can be done without the need for another type approval being carried out (weather that be converting from pickup to tray back, pickup to tipper or tipper to heigh sided tipper, makes no difference) provided it is just the body being altered and not the chassis. With regards to weights, all that's needed is a ticket from a weighbridge to submit as proof of what it actually weighs. All of this information I was told by the dvsa and DVLA when I was digging around for information It's no different to buying something like a single cab ford ranger then fitting a canopy to it. Effectively you've altered both it's size and weight but it doesn't need any approval from dvsa/DVLA to fit said canopy
  7. Yes you should tell your insurance company but vosa don't need to get involved. Least that's what I was lead to believe when I was digging around a while back. Also...you could have the body removed and a new custom one made and as long as you don't alter the chassis or axle etc then again, no need to involve vosa. Same goes for converting a drop side to a tipper
  8. I've had this 7 times. First time, fair enough...I was an idiot and not wearing any eye protection while grinding. Other 6 times it happened while I was wearing safety glasses and it somehow bounced around and got in there. Worst time was when he put the needle across the wrong side of the magnifying glass (on purpose) I jumped back as it looked like he was putting a 6" nail towards my eye, the doctor was in hysterics haha
  9. 4 cube for chip and 1 cube for the tool locker so minus the tool locker you could have 5 cube. A simple custom tarp keeps everything tidy while chipping
  10. Thank you, what you have said is much more along my line of thinking (rightly or wrongly). I have given them the extra information they have asked for but also highlighted that we are nearly 4 weeks into a 6 week process so I require their decision without undue delay so I'll see where that goes. I hate to make a deal out of dealing with councils, we all have to do it as part of the job but this particular council is known by many local tree surgeons for being very difficult and to be honest, it's rather annoying as it's completely unnecessary. I called them not so long ago to check if there were any tpo or conservation area at a property and they refused to tell me until I told them what work I was intending on doing. After explaining I was going to be removing a dangerous roadside beech tree that has kretzschmaria deusta and is falling to pieces and needed to know if I had to submit retrospective planning for the removal or not, they explained they were tempted to rush down and serve emergency tpo's. This I can understand but I don't feel they have a right to refuse me the information I have requested pending a good enough explanation from my self. There were no tpo or conservation area for the property.
  11. This cost me 4080 all in for the conversion and it will be roughly 1k to have it uprated. Most quotes I got were 6-6.5k +vat just for the conversion so I feel I got it cheap but I have had to make a repair so it's all relative, I do feel 6+vat is asking a little much though but if you can get it converted for 5-6k all in then another 1k for the uprate you'll be about right
  12. Out of those choices I'd go with echo. The 360tes is a good saw and if all you were doing is big dismantles but I personally find that the 2511 is good for over 90% of the work I do. I have both but the 360 barely leaves the shed any more as I'll usually just switch up to a 550xp if there's anything large to cut. On the ms150 bar and chain (or panther bar if bought from chainsaw bars which would be my recommendation if you do want to buy one) the 2511 happily handles the 10" bar and that will get you a long way through a tree, take into account it's small size and light weight and it will also do reductions negating the need for a silky and making jobs faster and easier. It's a no brainer for me really
  13. Customer will be pissed off anyway. Notice was submitted nearly 4 weeks ago, first I've heard from them is today and they tell me it hasn't been validated yet despite it being a 6 week process and were nearly 4 weeks in. Where do I stand with that?
  14. Okay then, so in this case, I have not given enough info or detailed enough spec but what do you say about they last time they kicked up. My application read "to reduce 5no eucalyptus by up to 3m in height to suitable growth ponts and reduce extended laterals back to inline with the main canopy to suitable growth points" again, in this case they wouldn't validate the notice till they had exact start and finished heights. They argued..."how do we know how much you have taken off if you don't tell us start and finished heights" to which I replied "you will see start height when you make a site visit and you can invisible finished height from there". What they seem to lack is basic common sense in my opinion Edit... I will guarantee no tpo would ever be served to any of the trees in question so no need to worry about that. My actual suggestion to the client was to fell the sycamore and the oak and 're plant as they are shadowed by the conifers and as such have become far from specimen trees and I can do no more than give my best suggestion
  15. I'll make a note of that for future applications but what happens when you don't fell and just lop and top? Technically you haven't done what you applied for and they would have required much more info to make their decision if that's what you actually wanted to do. Frustrating thing is that with any other council I deal with, this spec would be fine, get validated immediately and any additional info would be requested following a site visit (which has never happened). Admitidly the spec is somewhat vague and in unspecified but that reflects what the trees I have been asked to work on are like. If there was actually any worth to any of the trees I'd put a much more detailed spec in
  16. Had they bothered to make a site visit they would see that none of the trees are even close to worthy of a tpo but they haven't seen the site yet. Hence my gripe at them asking for additional detail that will be irrelevant to their decision, utter waste of time to be honest
  17. Thank you both. They haven't even made their site visit yet and I feel if they had, they wouldn't be asking questions but this seems to be the way they work. I'm aware that "topping"and "pollarding" arent the correct way to go about things but on the other hand...some situations call for just that. I've had issues in the past when I applied to reduce 5 eucalyptus. My spec was "reduce 5no eucalyptus by up to 3m in height to suitable growth points and reduce extended laterals back to inline with the main canopy" they came back with " we require exact start and finished height before we can validate the notice". That to me is asking for too much info for a 211 considering they just have to decide if the trees in question meet criteria for a tpo or not. I will have to supply the info they want as they won't validate the notice till I have. I'm just trying to gauge if what they are requesting is over the top or weather I'm just being pedantic about it. No other councils I deal with ask for that amount of info for a 211, they just use common sense when they make a site visit and I'm not alone in finding them difficult to deal with.
  18. Hello all and happy New year. Could anyone shed any light on the detail required for a 211 notice? It's my understanding that a basic description is all that's required as the work you wish to carry out has no bearing on weather the tree in question meets their criteria for a TPO or not. As meeting the criteria for a TPO is the only way they can refuse consent...an exact spec won't change that. The notice that's currently being questioned is to top a row of conifers by 50%, pollard a sycamore and reduce an oak. All are part of a scrappy hedge row that's be left untouched for some time and they say I need to specify exact start and finished height for topping the hedge and pollarding the sycamore and also require start and finished height and spread for the reduction. From my own experience, this sort of detail has only been requested when applying to carry out work to trees with a TPO. Am I wrong in thinking they are asking too much detail for a 211 notice? Or do they actually need additional detail to make a decision? I'd like to add that I regularly deal with 5 or 6 different councils and this is the only one that kicks up a fuss like this. Thanks in advance and apologies for the rant. George
  19. I'd say steel posts on the corners as that's easiest and cheapest way for atachment to steel bed then slot the planking in aluminium channel
  20. Yeah I've seen and torque figure seems low on the spec sheet but is rated to the same size holes. I've been reading into torque figures listed on drills and there's a difference between what's listed in the spec sheet and what you'll actually get in the field. Hard torque (maximum with no load) is what's always listed but soft torque (what is achievable under sustained load) is what counts for this sort of application and is often a fraction of the listed torque
  21. Interesting you say that, I'm currently making a winch using a harken winch (similar to the one in the picture) and had thought my 18v milwauke fuel drill may do the trick but maybe not. I'll have a look what milwaukee have on offer for angle drills in 18v as I've already got the batteries. That being said...I quite fancy the new dolmar 18v top handle so may be better investing in the drill you have
  22. Where did you get the adapter from?
  23. They are quite expensive new but do come up reasonable price second hand from time to time. Best thing to do is look on eBay for "self tailing winch" "yacht winch" or "harken winch". I'll probably do the same to be honest, just for now I have a specific job in mind. I'm not knocking the rope puller, it's a good bit of kit and certainly has it's uses and no regrets what so ever with it but for the jobs at hand it would just be too slow and fiddly
  24. The harken winch is what's on the GRCS although the one I have bought is the harken 35 whereas I believe the GRCS has the 40 so it's a little smaller and it's self tailing so no need to tend with one hand, just wind away with the drill. It will be much faster winding in with the drill and even faster still letting the line out again as you just unwind the wraps rather than fiddling with the ratchet to let the line out again. I'll have to make a cradle but that's easy enough and hopefully, for the jobs I have lined up, it should suit as a viable replacement for a petrol capstan winch, a little slower yes but a he'll of a lot cheaper. The harken 35 I've got was second hand but barely used and cost me £183. Few quid for some steel to make a cradle plus a drill adapter and it'll come in at less than 250
  25. Coletti

    Dolmar

    I am, had one since its release. It's a cracking saw with lots of grunt, not exacyly an all day ground saw (50cc would be better) but for medium to large ground jobs and blocking down stems etc it excells. Keeps with the husky 576xp and less weight. Always get comments from subbies about how good it seems. Not had any issues

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