openspaceman

Makes no sense to me best go back in the box because I don't want to have to spend time working your meaning out.

Not much has changed in 35 years then. I had an early one from Gordon Hoy when he made them in Devon. He got the basic drawing by projecting a photograph and getting the basic dimensions from that but the proportions for the rams meant the crane didn't hackle as well as the original. The main lift ram was single acting but the quality of materials must have been lacking as to vent the small amount of oil that seeped past the seal there was a small hole at the top of the stroke through which there was a spurt of oil if you went to full lift. Because the main lift ram was over sized it could lift a lot close in, probably good for arb work where you just wanted to get big logs off site but the lack of coordination between the functions meant productivity wasn't up with the Cranab and FMV I owned (and still do), not helped by the cheap and stiff spool block.

I can see some sort of rubber protection around the cables in the second picture but cannot make out the layout of the cables. Back in the day I when I was employed by a firm that regularly did bracing we attached the cable to eye bolts or screws into the branches or stems. That way the tree was not constricted as it grew in diameter. I know synthetic hollow braid rope is used now as it accommodates the growth.

I'm not sure satire has ever changed politics, after all our quasi democracy depends on committees that have their own agendas to select candidates. I saw how flawed american foreign policy was in my youth and it has only got worse fifty years later. Not being a fan of their politicians at all but this seems to show some americans realise what they have done. Heaven help the Taiwanese now, they don't have rare minerals the americans want.

Interestingly cheap. Their blurb says "Oregon Full-Skip Chamfer-Chisel Chain" yet the spec says Oregon 91PJ057X which is just a low profile??

Yes but if it is fresh chain oil rather than the used motor oil that Cyril used to issue us with I would expect the scrotal cancer to be unlikely but dermatitis isn't pleasant either.

Stubby has said much what I would except it has lightly seized from looking at the marks on the piston and rings with the skirt being clear. Ideally a replacement meteor piston and as Stubby says do not fit gudgeon pin circlips with tangs, reuse originals.

If you suspect the overheating may have damaged the piston and rings take the exhaust off and check their condition, a photo would help.

We have a fair amount of it on the common as it reverts to woodland, picture from a walk a couple of days ago. It never seems to get bigger than 2” diameter stems, which is why you would struggle to get a lot of charcoal out of it.

@shavey??

Nor me but I was buying tungsten carbide tipped mulcher teeth rather than chipper blades. It strikes me chipper blades need to be a fine balance of tempering between being hard enough to maintain a sharp edge without being brittle enough to shatter.

We had the first tracked forst 6" and I only used them once or twice, I was impressed with the feed compared with the older timberwolf 150 and greenmechs . Apart from teething problems, I remember loose hoses and blown fuses, they seemed to be okay up to 300 hours but I got sent out to pasture soon after that.

Stress control saves the engine from stalling and keeps the flywheel speed up (which also reduces blockages). Nothing saves the sudden shock of the blade hitting the first bit of wood , other than perhaps reducing the blade protrusion from the flywheel. It is that bite of the blade that flexes the flywheel toward the anvil.

I've not done laths but I wonder if a course is necessary, the business of splitting/riving is straightforward. We were just presented with a stack of chestnut rounds and told to split and point them for stakes. After that thinner stuff, especially hazel, is a doddle. Choosing your wood is the key. The skill is in selecting the bit of the tree length to cross cut for the product you want. Look on a tree as being a bunch of short straws, all overlapping and glued along their lengths with a glue that is weaker in bending than the straws are. When you start a split look at where it is running from the wedge, billhook or froe. If it is running downward turn it over and press down to direct the force to stress the lower glue line. Always push downward to make the split run that way. Always half each cross section till you have the required size. a quick search and this shows the basics https://youtu.be/WB4aZS8xmNE

The cost I presume, if I bought my logs from the local log man it would cost me over £1500 a year, cheaper to use gas, cheaper still to use a heat pump if I had an EV.