openspaceman

Yes, buy the dispenser bottle and when it is used re fill it with the cheaper stihl standard 1 litre bottle.

I don't see why not, the only problem might be high temperature if stall the chain regularly, lacking a chain brake means that being applied will not be a problem.

The end grain blocks were usually elm for a butcher's cutting block

not seen one anywhere as big but the young thin shoots are sunshoots and seem to be a way the stool manages itself with new growth as the older shoots go moribund. This is why it is so suited to coppice.

Probably but many years ago I was taught to file the Danarm 110 with .404 teeth with a file holder that had a plastic knob at the blunt end. This was for tapping the burr off each tooth after it had been sharpened. The reason given at the time was that the burr was the chrome plating on the tooth, to leave it there would cause it to peel off. It certainly isn't the case now, whether the tooth forming process at manufacture is better now I don't know.

The BBC must be looking in as they did a short video on petricor What do you call the smell of rain? WWW.BBC.CO.UK

I would definitely cook it but the preparation puts me off, cuttlefish fillets?

Yup, I fixed a 361 which had been dunked while running, the hydraulic lock when the piston hit water stopped it so suddenly that the flywheel sheared its locating key. New flywheel sorted it.

Less is more 🤔

Good to hear you are still with us, best wishes for full recovery.

Yes, I can remember way back getting a Husky stuck at the end of the day and no other saw or axe to get it out. I tried to get the saw off the bar but couldn't quite get the chain loose enough to come over the clutch. Rather than leave it overnight I cut through the tiestrap with a felco wire cutter. @Donnie's tip of withdrawing the saw then using the nose to bore cut the kerf a bit wider repeatedly works too, as long as you do it carefully so that the bottom of the cut has closed on itself before the saw gets jammed. It can be useful if the cut has started wandering off to do this as boring is less affected by one set of cutters being biased to one side if the bar is worn.

Prompted by your post today in the"apple tree help" thread here are a couple of photos of mine today: I thought it was going alright, it has set a heavy crop of young fruit but I noticed a bit of wilt on the lowest branch, s cut it off today.

It looks like the heartwood of a living tree has been decayed by a white rotter, this has eaten the lignin, leaving the squashy white cellulose. So some of the fuel value has been lost, once dry it won't degrade further and as you have got this far I would keep it, it will just take up a bit more space for its calories.

You can do this with an inboard clutch but not much chance with an outboard one. No need to cut directly above the pinched chain a few inches to the side is alright, just be aware the saw is likely to fall as the stump goes up and the top down, top may land on it. I used to carry a sharp hatchet for the purpose of freeing a stuck saw as a last resort.

It's your customers responsibility to get all permissions sorted. To go without permission is trespass, to do work without permission on neighbour's trees is an aggravated trespass with, possibly, criminal damage if my interpretation of the Criminal Justice and Public Order Act 1994 is correct.