Treecreeper1961

: 4= Dysfunction is a natural part of the aging of trees, though damage in youth can be a bigger problem because of the lesser volume of material avaliable to a biotrophic parasite so its effect would be seen and felt sooner. This is a key difference in the ancient tree and juvenile tree colonised, species of tree fungi and all the combinations play very important factors in the mode and succses of the fungi concerned. 5=as with most fungi it is via air born spores, the seeds of fungi landing in a sweet spot suitable for germination, a fresh wound from a limb failure or rain washing spores down through soils to a root maybe torn by a big blow. 6= Ganaderma applanatum=lipsiense and yest it is a VERY weak parasite and usualy confined to dysfunctional tissues, and normaly associated with big wounds and lots of dysfunction where as the australe can suddenly appear from a tree with no obvious scars. the rot via applanatum is also much more complete than in australe. 7=yes, australe is a rare breed in that not only is it a biotrophic parasite but in many tree species it is a particularly capable coloniser, chestnuts and limes for example have no defense chestnuts are degrade at a frightening rate. 8= it certainly does and it helps, as in its not reliable but as another piece in a jigsaw, your detective work adding it all up to find the likely cause and culprit hinting to a prime suspect.

If you select a few fronds from a cluster, carefully remove them so not to damage the others, they are great fried in olive oil with a little lemon juice:thumbup1: Make sure of your i.d. though, as with all fungi!

Your one step ahead of me there mate. It is on my christmas list though. Together with.............................

I like the rosette shape they have formed.

Nice work, just as the Ted Green video lectures we had through Myercough would have recommended.

Hi David, Great to see the work your doing. Just wondering, do you actively create dead wood or are you making the most of natural opportunities? I suppose it it very difficult to sacrifice living trees in a park environment. Do you have a 'deadwood management plan' as such. It seems important, once having created these fantastic habitats, to plan for continuity in the future. In some woodlands, undesirable species can provide an opportunity to create a range and variety of deadwood habitats, are you able to utilize any species in this way? Ben

How about Lactarius decipens for the unknown? Any hornbeam nearby?

No problem, open to all. 1. Thought so 2. Yes 3. Just wondering whether the production of multiple brackets relates to phases or 'moments' in the physiology of the fungi and perhaps it's interrelationship with the tree's physiology. Or is it that there is more than one 'individual' present? Could it just be the survival/propagation strategy? 4. Agree. Just trying to get a clearer understanding of the relationship between biotrophic parasite and host. The stress/damage/wound that allowed access for the fungi may be or could be the final nail in the coffin also, for tree and fungi but does the parasitic action add to the drain on resources enough to speed up the decline? More questions: 5. What is the usual mode of entry for Ganoderma applanatum and australe? 6. Is it strictly accurate to describe G. applanatum as a biotroph? What is it's decay strategy/type? Mainly confined to heartwood and therefore not really a biotrophic sp.? 7.Where as G. australe can extend into sound sap wood and makes it more appropriately a biotroph? 8. Does the effect of the biotroph show in the vigour and vitality of the canopy? and could this give a clue as to the i.d. of the fungi?

Hamadryad, I am not familiar with Ganoderma lipsiense. I googled it and came across records on the Global Biodiversity Information Facility. Wow, what a facility it is! Most records for the species are for mainland northen Europe, mostly Sweden, with just one for the U.K. However, the GBIF then led me to think that lipsiense is in fact a synonym for applanatum. That sure confused the hell out of me. So, if you don't mind, and I'm not trying to be a wise arse: 1. Is Ganoderma lipsiense the same species as G. applanatum? 2. Are both G. applanatum and G. australe perennial brackets laying down material year after year? 3. If they are, and in the case of other perennial brackets, what does the production of tiered brackets represent? Some brackets seem to grow large whilst others grow a tiered arrangement. Why is this? 4. If the fungi is acting in a biotrophic way, what has caused the tree to die? The long term drain from the fungi or secondary causes? Is it not in the interest of the biotroph to keep the tree alive? Cheers.

If you mean your the super generous boss and your based on Jersey, can I work for you please.

Long live the 'chatty trees' thread. Hmmm. Is that chatty trees or tasty cheese? Both very morish. We could all do with developing our understanding and appreciation of body language. I'm gonna go and convince the missus.

:001_tt2:Cornwall is in the UK they tell me. My picture is from an outpost of the empire:001_tt2:

Not sure about your bilingual translating but I don't think so. It is a track that eventually leads to a cove. Where is Polruan, Cornwall?

The 260 is a good saw for intermediate stuff in the tree. Once that can't cope I use a 044 with a 20" or 25" bar. I like to use the 'right' saw to keep the load down as much as possible. It didn't bother me years ago but now anything to make life easier is a must.

More good stuff. Not really sure how to contribute to this thread but here are a couple of nice shots I got last year:

7cc more. But does it rev and cut like a 200? I use a 250 quite a bit. It's not bad, but you wouldn't want to tackle anything too demanding with it. Gonna have to save for this purchase and I am going to bide my time and have a think about it. Any suggestions greatfully received. May start a thread or look for a similar one.

In my experience, which is very limited compared to others here, P. squarrosa can decay roots and stem base extensively, although I may have made a mis identification but I don't think so. I have seen, what must have been, intense white rot, of buttress roots of a Fraxinus excelsior.

That is a fair question. After years in the industry small reductions in physical stress must add up to extra longevity in the game. I love the ms200t and have been seriously thinking about getting a ms200. Never used one. Are they as good. I want a saw that is light and low on fatigue when using it for light trimming, pruning and has still got the guts to fell a tree up to say 20 inch diameter without getting embarrassed. I do a fair bit of rights of way work, ending up 2k or more from the vehicle. What do you reckon?

Yeah, don't sweat, I think Oldmilltrees was referring to MattMoss. Oh, and me.

That is a more than fair comment, but all reductions and pollards are a commitment to long term management, are they not? If that open split was a known roost then it would be justifiable to manage the tree for that one feature alone, in my opinion. Unfortunately, there are precious few trees that offer valuable features and those that do should be cherished. I see what you are saying and perhaps i am playing devils advocate to an extent. Willow may not be the species that offer long term stable habitat in any case. If the feature was a deep cavity in the trunk offering nursery roost potential then there would be no question. That split is almost certain to be used as a roost at some point, in some way, and is therefore protected by law, is it not? If we want to protect the future of sensitive species we are inevitably going to go to stretched lenghts to succeed. Trees are the center of a tree specific ecosystem.

That is pretty cool, beats mine, which I like a lot:thumbup1:

Following posting the photos, Ian Stewart of Fletcher Stewart has been in touch with me regarding the issue. He has worked quickly to find a solution to the obvious problem and I am expecting to receive the improved spikes soon. I will make an update when I have tried them out.

I drive a similar combo to yours, it can be a swine but: -going round corners is easier than going straight. -like the cable tie idea but you can also turn the spout so that you can see it. -if you can't see the chipper it's going ok -as soon as you can see it it's probably time to correct it immediately, driving slowly -practice lots -try not to let anyone see you screw up and if they do don't bother trying to explain how hard it is because they won't believe you and will end up thinking you are even more of a loser than they did to begin with

Fungus, Whilst the 'style' of reduction may be far from recommended practice there is some really nice conservation value in some of these features, which have been maintained by the manner of the work, by fault or design. If some small live growth had been retained it would have been better. Nice bat roost potential in the hazard beam type split.

Apologies, you have answered much of this in your last post.