sussexlad
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Everything posted by sussexlad
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wow they are smart boots, my custom boot came to $497! havent got that sort of cash unfortunatley, if i did i would definatley invest in a pair of those!
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just googled the timberkings, they are a bit...orange. and pricey! thanks for the input so far, decisions decisions!!
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foundation forestry/woodland managment degree
sussexlad replied to sussexlad's topic in Training & education
thanks for the update, i think i would still go for the part time option. sounds like good stuff, if your anything like me the conifer id will be harder than the broadleaves! -
yeah i know thats probably good advice, but i heard some people who have bought haix boots recently saying they are falling apart quickly...so im having doubts now! i am considering meindls or klima air tyrols. has anyone got any experience with the new husky boots?
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hi guys i apologise if this has been covered thousands of times but what do people think are the toughest and longest lasting forestry boots out there? most of the threads i have read were by climbers but i dont do much, 99% of my work is forestry. so i need a good pair that can handle brambles, puddles, mud and kicking the fires in! ive had a pair of haix extreme protectors and theyve done well lasting over 2 years but are now falling apart and are due a viking burial on one of my fires. any input would be muchly appreciated.
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hi guys, the chap i used to work for manages a bit of coppiced (chestnut/birch and oak standards) woodland, when i was there i cut some rides (widening the existing tracks on the map) through the wood, which where subsided with grants from the FC. In one of the rides i cut was a smallish valley with some oaks at the bottom 4 of which i felled. My boss tried to extract the timber for milling with his crane and trailer but because of the terrain/mud and coppice stools couldnt get down. so his solution was to take a mini digger in and dig up the stools to make a way down, the stumps were dumped by the ride side. my question is, is this acceptable practice? would the FC allow this? cheers.
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agree with the above totally. the tree was defo pre rigged or all the other rounds were duds as they didnt explode on impact. but it would be cool to have those toys, the bloke seems fairly insane though...
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when you go to pay for a mars bar and you have to sort the change from the sawdust at the till. or ...you have a garage full of 'interesting' bits of wood that will never get used for anything!
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foundation forestry/woodland managment degree
sussexlad replied to sussexlad's topic in Training & education
thats great, thanks for the replies. by the looks of it its exactly the type of thing im looking to do. are you doing the full or part time course? i would be very interested to hear any updates on how you are finding it. many thanks:thumbup1: -
never wear chainsaw gloves, only when i first started and then i found that they seemed to be designed only for holding the saw, as soon as you started actually working in them they fell apart. my hands got hot so only put gloves on in thorn!
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foundation forestry/woodland managment degree
sussexlad replied to sussexlad's topic in Training & education
ok thanks very much for the reply:001_smile: -
love my local, staggering distance, good pub grub and i can go in after a days cutting smelling like a bonfire (or worse), dog aswell which is normally on bailer twine/sling/strop/towing rope as i always forget the lead, have a few beers and talk utter crap then zig zag home. happy days!
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hi guys im looking to maybe do the above mentioned course part time in the next few years at plumpton college. Just wondering if anyone has any experience of this / similair courses, ie the sort of schedule i can expect as i still need to work a fair amount and if the degree will really be worth anything in the real world? any feedback or info at all would be muchly appreciated.
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hi guys, i have managed to aquire a 242 (for £45!) although i havent seen the saw yet apparently it needs anti-vib bush or something along those lines, where is the best place for spares, if any? thanks in advance!
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ok cheers for the feedback guys i will pass it on!
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hi guys, the estate im cutting on at the moment has loads of white poplar, big buggers probably going up to about 70ft. the owner asked me if there was any use for them but i dont know so thought i would ask here
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lol:lol: thanks for the advice guys, apart from the ms261 suggestion !! think i will go for a 346.
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hey guys, im going to ask a question that has probably been asked hundreds of times so go easy on me! thinking of buying a new saw, had a husky 353 for about 3 years, its the first saw i owned so i dont have alot of experience in the wider world of saws, although have used 357xp's a fair amount. most of the work i do is coppicing/felling mostly anything around 6-10 up to about 15 inches with the occasional bigger tree like poplar or oaks that i need to double bar. so im thinking another 353 but im not sure how the newer ones go (mine is 2008), a 346xp(silverside) or 357xp. it will be my primary saw being used everyday. im leaning toward the 346, alot of people on here rave about it for brashing and snedding, how is it as an allrounder? any input will be appreciated (as long as its all the same so it doesnt make my choice harder:lol:) cheers in advance and sorry for the essay!
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funny you should write this, i was cutting away today and thought i havnt replaced that little bearing for a while hmmm. i will dive in tomorow and take a look, thanks for the advice!
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hi so bit of an update, that diagram was great, yep turns out the idle screw was staring me straight in the face the whole time!! i have brought down the idle revs and it is alot better, still creeping slightly, but vastly improved. i may replace the clutch again just to start on level playing field so i know where i stand. anyway thanks for the help, much appreciated!
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i will have another look today, but there is no idle screw on my saw only H and L, on these 2 screws, there are plastic bits that prevent them being turned more than about 3/4 of a turn.
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maybe its a crap relacement clutch, i just replaced the whole thing as lip that hold the spring in place had snapped off, and i didnt realise you could replace them in bits!
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thanks for quick replies guys. chain is kept to good tension, filed the bar the other day, and am using husky oil. also chain kept sharp and oiler is working well. my intial thought was clutch but it looks ok, the c springs are all intact and doesnt look damaged in anyway, the only bit there i havnt changed in a while is the clutch housing. ive had the saw for about 3 years using pretty much everyday for felling/logging and not touched the carb myself in that time as its always run fine. i did have a little fiddle with the carb today just to see, but im not to great with that side of things, but it didnt seem to make any difference at idle. it still seems to run fine and this is the first time ive had issues with the saw, an air leak doesnt sound good!
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hey guys, new to this so apologies if there is already a thread on this. the chain on my 353 is running along at idle, at a fair pace. i changed the clutch a few weeks ago (non genuine part replacement) so didnt think it would be that. the saw seems to be running pretty rich at the mo, bit smoky and plug is pretty sooty. but at the same time, the clutch cover, bar and chain all get very hot whilst running, i burnt my fingers taking the chain off the other day. this is why its confusing:confused1: is the clutch etc getting hot compensating for something else...im in over my head and the more i think about it i get more clueless! so im appealling to you fine gentlemen (or ladies?) for your expert knowledge and help. many thanks in advance
