nick1854
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Everything posted by nick1854
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That looks fantastic. You need to make a chess board with the same wood.
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Matt I could use some more larch boards, and you can use the left over logs (though they are pretty green). Nick
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Matt That has gone up really fast, and looking good. Will you access from the river side? The roof pitch is a bit low for a shingle roof (the lower the pitch the faster they rot) though they do just cost your labour (and fuel). You also need stainless nails for oak shingles. Nick
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Can I watch (help!) when that is milled it looks fantastic! Field Maple that is big, straight and burry.
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can anyone help with moving a lump of wood?
nick1854 replied to se7enthdevil's topic in General chat
pm sent to you both to set the collection up -
This is my experience of making small timber framed buildings too Andrew. I haven't looked into the engineering/structural grading aspects as much as you have, but found that by building "by judgement" can work well. For me "judgement" was built up by looking at other timber frames, reading how professionals frame and my own knowledge of working/using different types of timber (eg. you develop a sense of what a particular section of timber will span unsupported). Also as a default option for safety and peace of mind use a bigger timber! You have made an excellent job of the bracing Andrew, nice tight joints. How are you going to do the cladding?
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That looks magnificent Andrew. I reckon you could have adapted that to take the weight of a green roof
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Has anyone tried using M42 blades on a mobile mill? I use them on my workshop bandsaw and they are far more cost effective because of their longer life. They also cope well with the odd bit of metal...
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yes yes Matt! The off cuts have interesting grain and colour and the shot of the whole log looks like it runs all the way down. If I come across any timber I haven't used before and the signs are good (interesting crosscut grain/burrs lumps etc.) I always give it a go, though it tends to be on small section stuff (less than 16"). I had some turkey oak and the internet search suggested burn it, but I got some nice figured boards (which air-dried really fast). The rowan I have used before was hard like a fruitwood and worth the effort. Nick
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Great looking bed. Good combination of waney and straight edge timber. Another vote to see it finished.
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Mark I wonder if when you come to work the board that was perfectly flat in your workshop you take more off one face than the other. This changes the stresses in the board and it warps, and on wide boards this can mean a 3/4" hollow or crown. However dry a piece of timber is every time you make it smaller (by planing or cutting it into smaller components) it loses a bit more moisture and it changes shape. When I make furniture I always rough cut the components oversize and stack it to dry more, and then after a couple of weeks plane to the final size. I think for boards 20" wide I would be drying them in the house before I worked them (after gentler drying in the workshop of course).
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Sawn European larch and Oak available in reasonable bulk
nick1854 replied to Big J's topic in Milling Forum
That is a good price Jonathan. I wish that had been available when I looked for local sawn larch 3 years ago to clad my latest shed build. Durable and smells great. -
Matt Richard (FC) might know the age of the Douglas timber. I remember him saying it had been felled a while before we used it, hence it was pretty dry when you milled it. When I was turning the offcuts (my offcuts from your offcuts!) into firewood I got loads of really fine splinters.....is that a Douglas Fir thing?
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Shed looking good Matt. Some of the offcuts I took from your milling were too good to burn and I managed to get some useful posts from them. Thanks.
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Yes yes yes. It can be beautiful timber. It is quite dense like fruit woods. The problem is finding stems big enough to make it worthwhile to mill....if it's 10 inch or bigger diameter give it a go. The stems I have come across often have spiral grain and bark inclusions from the fluting on the trunk. Often pinks and red colours in the heart wood. Pictures please if you mill.
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I really like the idea of the "folding" to give the continous grain. Also a really good way of using odd shaped/rustic timber. I can see that despite the basic construction that took a long time to make...
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+1 for hiring in a bandmill. I have done a far bit of cutting on a large workshop bandsaw and it is OK for small volumes of short timber, but for cladding it doesn't make sense. You will also hit a piece of metal in the first bit of timber you cut... I can vouch for the accuracy of Big J's cutting having helped him a couple of times, and the cutting goes fast.
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Al We needed 6 x 2 inch boards for our project and I found the easiest way to cut the 2 inch thick Alaskan-cut slabs was with a hand held circular saw. It is an old hitachi that can cut 3.5 inch and I fitted an 18 tooth blade. I marked the edges with a chalk line and got pretty accurate cuts. I am sure this would be quicker and waste less timber than the mini-mill, though I needed mains power... I was surprised to find that the timber that was most difficult to cut was the Sitka (also had Larch and Douglas Fir).
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We also chainsaw milled some Douglas Fir Jonathan, and it was very easy to mill. Well behaved timber.
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whats the hardest timber we have growing in Britain???
nick1854 replied to se7enthdevil's topic in Woodcraft Forum
Hi Steve How much of the timber would you need, enough for one cheese? Funny that once the smell has died down it is a bit cheesy, seems appropriate. -
whats the hardest timber we have growing in Britain???
nick1854 replied to se7enthdevil's topic in Woodcraft Forum
Here are some photos of the stinky wood. Not the best, and out of focus. The handle of the mallet is ash. Side grain: End grain: It seems to darken in colour on exposure to light and ends up a deep red/brown colour. -
whats the hardest timber we have growing in Britain???
nick1854 replied to se7enthdevil's topic in Woodcraft Forum
Steve I have some unknown tropical hardwood timber that would fit the bill, but it stinks......and takes a while before the smell goes. I did a bit of research and think it it "Red Angeline". I found references to it's use for lock gates and it is heavy (sinks in water) and has a very interlocked grain. It is incredibly dense and cold to the touch. I bought 3 lengths of it from a local auction 8 years ago 12" x 5" section and 12' in length. Unloading it at home helped to bring on my hernia nicely. When I cut into it I realised why few people bid on it.....Be interesting to see it turned, though I expect it will eat chisels. -
How did you get on with the larch Alistair? We recently chainsaw milled some for a Stargazing Shelter in rural Northumberland (not far from you). It is really nice timber.....yet whenever I have asked sawmill operators about it they really don't like cutting it. Something about the internal stresses in the wood and what happens to it as it leaves the saw.
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Here's a bit with ripple: "]http://[/url] Not the best photo, it is prettier in real life. As you tilt it in the light you get a 3d effect.
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If it does have ripple in the grain musical instrument makers like it alot and pay more. I have had some small bits and they have all been quarter-sawn. Even if it doesn't have ripple you will end up with more stable timber.
