wyk
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Everything posted by wyk
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There's preaching and then there's practice. If we all were 100% safe, we'd be sitting at home on our arses typing all day long instead of roaming around with chainsaws. Having said that, I am curious to see what the timing is on those 150 cylinders.
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^ That should read 33MM ish for the 150t, if my math is right. In any case, that's not a lot of room
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A standard 50cc cylinder is usually about 47mm or so. This would mean the 150 has something like a 23mm cylinder. I dunno how one gets a tool inside that cylinder to grind with...(that's what SHE said). In any case, for both the 201 and 200T, the best thing you can do is give it some timing and a muff mod. Some porters don't even bother to go beyond that, the rewards are so impressive. It's not only speed you get, but also responsiveness, easier starting, and torque.
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Cool. Don;t spose anyone has used a Rheostat with their dremel tools lieke this one? AC 250V 6A Loop Control Motor Front Back Stop Momentary Foot Pedal Switch | eBay
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Oh, I was simply quoting you for reference. You're on the ball, and certainly appear more experienced with saws than myself, so I definitely wasn't meaning any sort of criticism towards yourself. I do agree - 10* is a big number. But, for Brad, that could well be fine. As I was saying, he could be matter of fact, or he could be pushing it - be careful with his #'s. I see a lot of guys on the US board pushing saws to their limits for standard ground or tree work. Many professionals in the states are perfectly happy with a saw that lasts a year, maybe two, in heavy logging. Are you happy with your ported 372XP lasting a year? I'm not. I go a bit more conservative most of the time - especially with timing advance. My 'stock appearing race saw' only has 4* advance at 235psi. But, some saws like a lot, some hate it.
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Cool. Good to see yer bettah. I was considering running a 20" bar, so 22 would prolly give me a touch more mid range torque to run it with an 8 pin, I reckon. I don't need it to hold 12K RPM in the cut, eventually I am gonna run a 28" on it and would like it to just not bog in the cut if the tree moves. Still, I am just running these numbers with the flat top. I will have to runt hem again when the pop up arrives. Hope the deck height isn't different. I am told it is the same piston...but we know how that goes...
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Snelling tends to often run the ragged edge. He gets as much as he can out of a saw. He is a programmer by trade, and has very little experience running a saw aside from making cookies. Few of his customers work in forestry as well, so his feedback is limited. Take what he says with a grain of salt and approach it carefully. Back to the old "retune your saw after muffler mod" note. ALWAYS check the tune of your equipment after making modifications. Yes, the dealers mostly get it right, but why risk it being tuned a tad lean from the dealer and then suddenly you're very lean after a simple mod? Always check your tune after mods. But, in many cases, if your saw was tuned correctly to start, and you did a decent muffler mod, you can now add MORE fuel, safely, for even more power. Why not take advantage of the mods you made?
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Wiseco - how much blow down are you running on your jug? I am at 24-25 ish. This jug seems like it would like a lot more closer to 20.
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3? Ported 372 and a ported 395 is all I'd need.
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Anyone here know someone does a bit of aluminum welding or set up to machine a cylinder?
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Ahh. I was looking for an attachment for my flexi shaft. The dremel one onthe bottom is huge and only attaches to the actual body
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Anyone got a link to that attachment? I cannae find it.
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Well, a stone might work coz with the bottom gasket in on this particular BB kit, the blowdown is plenty long. I jis need to massage them a bit. I was also looking at dentist contra angles. But they use a completely different set up. Once I get my shop set up, I will prolly get into one of these.
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I am gonna get the silverline flexi thing, and then mebbe a proxxon coz its 5K rpms lowest. I maybe able to live with that. WHat are you using for the transfers?
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10,000 rpm the slowest, though? I sorta like the control slower rpms give ya. That's really my main reason for looking at the jewelers grinders. Unfortunately, it takes more power to run it reliably/usably at lower rpms.
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I was also considering this, but the shipping is brutal. FOREDOM 2230 JEWELERS KIT FLEXSHAFT MOTOR 230 VOLT | eBay
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Some Walbros do a great job of metering with a larger venturi. The 372, and many 50cc and 40cc sized saws are nearly over carbed. Opening the venturi a bit will not lean the mixture out if you don;t go crazy. IE, some older Walbros simply had smaller venturis, but the exact same innards otherwise. I wanna seque into another question. I was looking at jewelers grinders. ANyone use any of the ones on EBay? I was eyeing something like this: Rotary Machine Flexible Shaft/Hanging Grinder & Buffer Come with 161pc Accessory | eBay
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The 101B was basically a factory race saw they made available to the public. It was a 125CC high performance go-kart engine stuffed into the SP125 chassis. The man in the video is right to be careful with it, it could easily pull all 40 lbs of itself out of his hands, or shoot it back at him, if he's not careful.
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Almost forgot to leave this here: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Xkb6DSA7h4]McCulloch SP-125/MC-101b testing - YouTube[/ame]
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OK, I'll wade in to battle with the McCulloch 101B.
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I bored out the one on my 444SE with a dremel Just cover the outlets. I was wondering, since they used horns with limited success on early 2 stroke bike motors if they would work on a chainsaw motor. Afterall, since it's still open, it wouldn't have to be very big. *shrug*
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Dolmar PS 5105 - Fed up waiting for them so importing them myself
wyk replied to TimberCutterDartmoor's topic in Chainsaws
325 dulls faster and takes longer to sharpen for the same bar length are my only complaints. -
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You can bore the stock carb about 1mm over easily. 2mm is a lot to ask. I have seen some very angry 372's with a simple bore job... This is Cusarina, a very hard wood, harder than oak. This is also using the jug I posted a pic of earlier when I said to go bananas: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QFd5pIFStCA]Chinese Husqvarna 365 big bore ported II - YouTube[/ame] His carb is bored about 1mm over.
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That's before it was fully finished. It's been ground down a few thousandths since. Yeah, I saw a 2005 Jonsered 2165 that the shop was asking nearly 500 Euro for recently. Jis silly.
