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Hi would like to have a go at srt, is any one running training or have a go courses, am in London but can travel. Thanks

i have been asked to quote for removal of a Plane tree with TPO in the rear garden of a property the tree is 16 meters from the rear of the property The property has subsidence at the front of the building, part of the the front was underpined in 2004 using helipiles The property is moving again and cracks appeared at the front The householders insurance company sent a tree consultant to carry out a report they made some bore holes discovered some roots and recommend the Plane tree is removed The house holders insurance company dont cover the cost of the tree removal I find it hard to belive a Plane tree 16 meters from the rear of the property could cause subsidence at the front of a property that has been underpined in 2004 The council still have to make a decision ,but I dont think they will argue My feeling is the insurance claim the tree is causing the problem , house owners pays to remove tree , cracks are patched up house moves again in a couple of years but house may have a different owner and insurance company so insurance company are just buying time what are the options of getting a second opinion on the cause of the subsidence that the insurance company will accept? Do you just have to go with what they and there consultant tell you?

Hi I have a stihl 051Av it has been sat on the shelf with fuel and oil for a few years. The other day I tried to start it it felt like it had alot of compression, could just about pull the starter any how the saw started I revved it a bit it seemed fine ,as i was at home in the garden did not want to run the saw for long. Took the saw to work filled with fuel and oil tried to start it was locked solid, removed spark plug pulled starter it turned over nice and what looks like chain oil came out the spark plug hole left the saw for a while put plug in it popped and produced a bit of smoke but then locked up again removed plug this time am getting fuel mix alot less oil out the plug hole. I guess the fuel could be getting in the crankcase if the float is stuck open but what about the chain oil Are the fuel and oil tanks on the side of the crank seals Any ideas The last time I used the saw it used a lot of petrol and with a 36" bar was not oilling enough, I think 36" bar is the biggest you can run on the 51 so it should oil but if petrol and oil and leaking into each other it may be the problem the chain oil is diluted and not working Thanks for any idea still looking for an exhaust for an 056 if any one has

Hi I have a Mitsubishi canter 57 plate The original fault was very loose steering and wearing out front tyres on the inside The garage found a bent track rod This was replaced and the truck sent to have wheel alignment set up I have been told that the rear axle is twisted by 5 degrees Has any one experience of a twisted axle on a canter Is it repairable (unbolt axle and retighten or replace parts) what causes it to twist Thanks

Am pretty sure you get to the bulb by opening the door the bulb holder should twist and come out from the back

If the machine is new to you make sure the chipping blades are sharp this does make a difference how the brush is pulled inn. My blade rollers are worn but as long as the chipper blades are sharp its works ok Also check the feed roller springs I changed mine and this made a difference

Hi I have a 97 en tec 30 Dh chipper same as Timberwolf 150 would like to change the feed roller blades and also the anvil I think I can remove the rollers easy enough to change the roller blades but not sure whats involved to change the anvil Is it possible to see the anvil to see how worn it is will i need to remove the hopper and flywheel to get to the anvil? I would rather not disturb the flywheel bearings I would like to have a go my self but if it ends up taking me more then one day I would probably be better paying some one, just a bit worried about disturbing flywheel bearings Thanks

Hi I have an entec DH30 chipper (simlar to timberwolf 150) When using the chipper the revs will drop like it running low on fuel but then pick up again, I have changed the fuel and air filter it seemed to improve a bit but still drops occasionally. I am about to change the fuel pipe from the tank, when I removed the fuel pipe from the tank I was expecting the diesel to come out but it just dribbles out is this correct ie it needs to be sucked out by the fuel pump or is my tank blocked. Is there a filter in the tank. Also if i want to clean the tank out whats the best method , I dont want to remove the tank as its a duel tank with the hydraulic oil and dont want to mess with this. While checking the fuel pipes I noticed the short thinner bit of pipe between the fuel pump and injectors was not mega tight is this part under alot of pressure ie it could be sucking in air or is the pump pumping fuel into the injectors., I will change it any way. The battery on the chipper needs replacing as its not holding a charge would this have any thing to do with the revs dropping Thanks

Hi have just been to price a dead ginko, does any one know if its any good for burning? its been dead/dying for 2 years am hoping it can be split and sold stright away or else its going to the tip. Thanks

We have a small jack russell we put a duvet over its bed or on the sofa so it can stay under cover it really makes a big difference if they can cover up.

I think its purpose is to stop the grass getting caught between the bottom of the snath and the blade rather then a brace. Where the nail goes into the blade the metal is very thin so would not offer much support, if the blade comes loose the nail will tear the blade. Have seen people using a bit of wire for a nail

Hi Rob Thanks for that I need to order some bits from you in about a week. I will add a note about the tie straps with my order. Thanks

Hi I have some made up 404 chains that are odd lengths mainly 137 drive links. Does any one know why stihl would have made chains with 137 drive links is it possible they would fit a 47" bar even though a 148 drive link chain is recommend, is it possible the 137 chain is going to stretch as soon as it spins around a couple of times and then be suitable for the 47" bar Is it possible to add another drive link or best to shorten the chain. I have not been able to find any presets for stihl 404 chain does any one know if they are still avaible from stihl. Thanks

Thanks for reply, The hole in the end of the bar is that for a helper handle or to some how mount another saw engine? If a solid nose bar is used for milling and an additional oilier used on the nose would this solve the heat and chain stretch problem? The chains I got are 404 chains with 137 drive links all the info I can find says 47" 0r 48" stihl bar uses a 138 or 139 drive link chain is it possible these chains are meant to be used with a different size sprocket? Thanks

I got a few pictures of the bars, the Stihl logo is in black not orange or red as I first thought. I got 2 of these bars made in Canada and some more 47" bars made in west germany they are solid nose bars. I also got a box of chains most are 404 some 3/8 but they seem odd lengths (might be why they were all in a box) is there a list of chain lengths for older saws like 090 etc.

I found some old stock Stihl bars at a shop today they were about 48" unpainted with Stihl painted in orange, at first I thought they might be fake but the shop had alot of very old stock so think they may just be very old bars. Does any one know anything about these old bars. Thanks

Hi I have been trying to clean the cooling system on my entec 30 dh chipper it has a Kubota 4 cylinder diesel engine. I have run some rad flush through it and fresh water but before I refill with coolant I would like to know if there is a drain plug anywhere on the engine to drain what evers in the engine. Thanks

My 30DH from 1997 has a bradley tow hitch, but my manual dated 1996 states it should have an Alkio Hitch Type 90s I think there were a couple of different set ups and axles used around this time. The bradley tow hitch looks alot tougher then the pressed steel Aliko type

Heres a nice guide to making an axe handle https://www.bodgers.org.uk/bb/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=825

Did you change all the injectors and did you use Mitsubishi injectors? What was the cost? Thanks

Thanks for replys I thought the truck had sorted itself out but has started going into safe mode alot about 4 times in the last 20 miles. I have had a look for anything obvious like bad connections on electrics did not find anything, Cant see any breather from the fuel tank would it be in the cap? A friend plugged in a diagonstic and he seems to think the reading on the fuel injectors was wrong they were reading 1 and 2% on tick over he seemed to think they should be on 0 or minus when the truck is ticking over. He managed to switch of the amber light but I think it will come back on next time the truck goes into safe mode. I think the truck will have to go to the diesel mechanic for a through check. I got a price from Mitsubshi for injectors £313 + vat each so am hoping its something else. Is it likely a decent diesel mechanic would be able to find the problem or is there alot of change this pay the bill and go back a week later with the same problem only to change another expensive part. The fuel gauge is reading a bit less then half a tank, its only gone into safe mode on half a tank or less is this just coincidence ? Is it likely that injectors would need replacing on a truck thats only done 33000 miles (they are mainly intown miles alot of stop start) Thanks

I had a fuel filter fitted and truck serviced but only after the amber light came on. I was hoping the fuel filter would solve the problem but even then I dont know if the amber light would go out on its own.

The print out states 0148; Leakage in fuel system I am thinking if the truck did not have a computer I would not know anything is wrong as it drives ok.

Hi I have a Mitsubshi canter 3.5 Ton on a 57 plate its done 33000 miles mainly in town driving. The other morning after 5 minutes driving the truck went into safe mode and would not rev past 2000 rpm. I drove for a bit to find some where to park, after switching ignition off I waited 10 minutes and engine started and drove fine but the amber engine control warning lamp is on. I took the truck to a Mitsubshi garage and had a diagnosis by computer the fault came up as Leakage in fuel system Instructions Inspect fuel pipes for leaks/dirt I did not want to leave the truck at mitsubshi as the cost is £89+vat an hour I had the truck serviced and fuel pipes checked at my usual garage they did not find any problems. The truck drives fine but the amber light is still on I spoke to the diesel specialist today who seemed to think it could be the injectors, The injectors on this engine cant be overhauled and need to be replaced by mitsubshi (sounds expensive) Is it possible to get the injectors tested before replacing Any one else had similar problems Is it possible to get the amber light turned off? Mitsubshi said it may go off on its own. Any suggestions. Thanks