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Hi, I'm selling a friends lathe, turning tools & chucking. Check out the ad on Arbtrader Woodwork lathe ArbTrader Arborists Classifieds I think this is really good deal, everything you need, especially if you're just starting out. Any questions just e-mail/PM me. Cheers.

Got sorted now, actually ended up buying the kit from the local XL bygg store (other retailers are available ) with a little discount the price seemed reasonable. Went for a husky 435 and husky trousers & hat. Quite impresed with the saw, looks a bit plasticy, but cut nicely. Also I was impressed by the alkylate petrol that is used here, the guy at XL started and tuned the saw in their wood store warehouse, there was no smell of 2 stroke and we weren't coughing on the fumes after a min or 2. Might start using this back home... One thing that I think is cheaper in the UK are boots, as they're VAT exempt, but don't appear to be here in Sweden. Still to get a good axe, but he has one left by the previous home owner, which will do for the time being. I like the look of the one suggested above.

-probably buy in Sweden, could do mail order, shipping might be expensive from uk? I thought about an axe too. Thanks

Hi can any one offer some advice on the below questions, for a freind of mine who lives just north of Uppsala? He has bought himself 10m^3 of cord wood to cut and slit for fire wood. He wants to get a saw, splitter and PPE. Currently, as he's not an experienced saw user, he's thinking electric husky, husky PPE package and a chinese splitter. I guess his budget is about 6000SK maybe more if he doesn't tell his wife ;-) Please recomend: -some good places to buy this type of kit from, -what kit to get -also, what is a normal price for cord wood in this area of Sweden, I think he is currently paying about 200SK for cubic metre. Any advice would be greatly appreciated, as I'm staying as his this week and would like to get his started. Thanks in advance. (sorry about spelling, no idea how correct it on an ipad)

Really enjoy this thread… so on my workbench is my 200T, it got a blocked oil tank vent and sucked in the crank case gasket. So I stripped it down, took the opportunity to give it some TLC, inside it’s in pretty good nick. But while it’s in bits I thought I’d give it new crank seals, piston rings, AV’s etc. I’ve never taken one of these apart before, but with the manual and the exploded spares diagrams there was nothing too tricky. The only hard part seems to be getting the spare parts, I went to a local place that told me over the phone, when I checked, that they kept loads of 200T spares, though when I got there they had none of the parts, not even a cylinder gasket etc. So I ordered my list of parts from a well known online place, package turned up, some parts missing… after contacting them, they sent nearly all the remaining parts, grrr. With enough essential parts to rebuild the saw (in time for a looming job) I realised that I’d been sent the wrong piston rings, or so I think, though not until the saw was nearly fully reassembled. MS200T p-rings Stihl p/n: 1114 034 3001 Ø40x1.5mm, ones that I’d been sent came in a box that says 1114 034 3000 Ø38.5x1.5mm, only 1 out… they fitted ok, but I thought they looked a little small. Did a compression test and can only get 90-100psi, which doesn’t hold. So, probably a rhetorical question, but these rings are no good? –I don’t have a lot of saw rebuild experience hence the post. Next on the bench – Husky 44, my old man’s saw, that managed to fill in for the 200T – on the ‘looming job’. –cracking little saw, must be 25+ years old too, but its handle didn’t quite make it to the end of the job, ally fatigue. –any one got a spare for sale? Cheers, folks.

-there's actually a reasonable bit of meat where it counts, so problem with this one, although I had rough turned another, similar, which definitely would have gone all 'red bull' had I not consigned it to firewood 1st. Thanks for the +ve comments!

Nice effect, I like the design, nice bit of spalted beech too. Good work!

As requested. This is a dish about Ø13" flat rim, dished centre, ogee underside. See more here: Phoenix Turner | Facebook Thanks for looking.

Hi Pan, thanks, glad you like my work (check out my web site everyone ). -drying rough turned bowls; I normally finish turn when the moisture content is at about 15%. For say a Ø12” simple bowl, I will normally rough turn the wall to about an 1” thick. Time wise, from tree to on the table ~6 months. This is a very simple guide, all of which I adjust according to shape, wood type, end use, desired end result… if you’d like some more info, there’s loads in the milling forum about drying wood, and probably some turning specific drying info in the craft section, otherwise feel free to drop me a PM and I’ll go in to more detail. Cheers.

Hi James (muttley9050), I embarked on the project you are now planning about 3 years ago, just finished my floor before Christmas (see the beerkan mill thread). Some really good advice above. From my own experience; I used screwfix tongue tight screws, they’re great, had no probs. with the tongues spitting. I also T & G’d all my boards including the ends, although extra work, it means that if the boards shrink/swell any gaps don’t notice so much, adding a small chaffer around the edge also helps hide any height mismatch. Good luck with your project!

Wood Moisture Meter - CEM DT-125 Is a good bit of kit.

Thanks for all the +ve comments! -delabodge, I did consider putting insulation under the boards, but it was another complexity/expense… I used 22x38 batons so wouldn’t have been able to use standard Celotex or similar and really anything less than 50mm of insulation (board) isn’t worth the effort, plus I didn’t want to raise the floor any higher as I would have had to move pipe work and had a very high step up on to the floor from the other half of the room. Fair point though.

Will do, cheers.

Some fruits of my milling labours, I finished an oak floor in my house just before Christmas, which is really why I built the mill in the first place. No long explanation, I’ll let the pics do the talking, but just to explain that after having all the boards planed, they got leaked on, hence the ‘visitors’ and had to be dried and plane again (not a good day that) –Lots of hassle, but the end result definitely worth it. Hope this gives some inspiration to others contemplating something similar.

Hi, long time no post, thought some of you might find this interesting… would also be interested to hear of anyone else’s experience. A friend of mine bought some dead Olive trees last Autumn that had to be removed as part of a property sale. Apparently they had been imported from Spain a few years back, the tops had been killed off by the continuous cold a few winters back. The trees were said to be about 300 years old, I can believe that the root stocks were, as they were about 4’ cubed, and solid; but I think the tops were younger. The wood is really interesting great colours/grain, and the smell is fantastic, but very strange to work with. I rough turned some shortly after removal, left for a few months, then put them in my kiln at about 25-30%MC with a load of other blanks. The kiln had been on for about 2 ½ months, and the contents were at less than 10%MC. The Olive pieces were reading less than a couple of % so I thought I’d finish turn them. It's very strange as most of the wood was bone dry, but there were bands running through it that were still at 15-30% MC, odd thing is that there seems to be distinct boarders between wet and dry areas, not the gradual transition you would expect.

Not sure about anybody else but I'm still coming, even if it's to have a thorough look round by myself. I'll be there at 10am ish.

What time do you guys what to meet up on Sunday? 10am sociable enough? -Rob have you got to come all the way from Merseyside, that's quite a treck. (Tom)

-weekend of the 19th & 20th, Saturday has my vote, though either really.

NellBelly, those are great! -would be good to see some when I come down to Croft

Hi folks, is anyone still interested in an arbtalk visit to Croft Castle? Can I suggest May 19th or 20th?

Nice lamp shade, not sure about the technique though, could have saved himself a load of time and a mountain of savings if he'd used a good coring tool. I wonder if it moved much after drying. Nice video all the same.

Hi Ben, when you saw it up into blanks, do remember to seal the end grain, old gloss paint is good, otherwise the risk of end grain shake is worse.

not according to ebay, or am I missing something? eBay UK Item Bid History

anyone know what happed to this, I watched it, thought I might have a punt, for a possible milling reaplacement for my 880 if it ever dies, as spares as quite cheap for the 090's (090 cylinder ~60quid, 880 ~400) but the bids went up too high for me, but now I see it went for 200quid, other bids cancelled due to 'listing error'

Heavy duty it is, still work-in-progress, but it works pretty well. The tool post needs some work though as it is only made of light gauge box, which is not rigid enough for coring... bent this coring tool - on the flat, this is 35x5mm bar, only made of mild but even so. Other pics of some unknown wood, possibly Blackthorn? Any ideas?