doobin
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Everything posted by doobin
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Unless you get one with a sliding table then they're bloody dangerous, plus it's hard to push the timber through without pinching it onto the blade as you near the end of the cut. Looking at that size blade (it's not gonna do much past ten inch diameter if that) you'd be better off and much safer with one of those saw horses that holds the chainsaw for you. Especially as you have to mess around mounting a petrol engine.
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The first mention of £40 was for the poster concerned paying for his saw, bars, chains, fuel, oil and presumably the transport to and from work. That's not worth going to work for. £40 cash to rock up and get busy with someone elses tools is better than nothing however, that I can agree with.
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Then you're nuts. Two years ago £40 a day was below minimum wage. And you paid for everything?? As for dropping the piece rate once you'd improved, if I had a boss do that to me I'd rip him a new arsehole. And I'd expect the same from any of the lads who work for me. That's just not on. I reckon there's trafficked prostitutes in third world countries less exploited than you
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Here you go: stihl chainsaw ms180c spares or repair | eBay Add the £60 you were going to spend, plus a little extra and have a brand new one from Jonesey for around £200.
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They hold their value well. You would probably get £85 back for it on eBay if you advertise it as having suspect carb trouble carb trouble but good compression.
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You will not get better value for money than Wolf. Air Compressors | Wolf Air | UKHS.tv I do question their marketing stratgegy (used to be distributed by Screwfix and are often shown on the home shopping channels) but nothing else comes close spec for price. Many of them come with accessory kits which are also good quality. I still have the original tyre inflator and spray gun from my first one. I've had a six litre one for seven years now and it still runs fine. My main workshop compressor is a 3HP 50l model and still going strong after five years. The hose reels and the like are also top quality. Compressors and hoses come with the German quick release fitting as standard, which allows greater airflow and doesn't leak like the normal type. Worth noting that Wolf have not put prices up significantly for a long time now. I wouldn't buy anything else.
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Not give you your money back? Is that even legal? I would get in touch with one of the legal bods in the tabloid press. What other insurance you hold is none of their business and any reference to it should be limited to 'Could we quote you at renewal time?'
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"Cleaned" the filters? You can't really clean a paper filter, it should have been replaced IMHO. How long ago was that? Worst case scenario is that you damaged the element and the pump has worn out. I don't think it's that though, as the juddering suggests low oil/oil not getting through. Foaming oil is cavitation (air in oil) which again suggests low level. Has it got an external spool valve? If this is activated by mistake on the lever (assuming the loader is not plumbed in here) then this will cause the other hydraulics to run funny. You should have heard the difference in the engine note however- it would be struggling. Just saw your bit about the tipper. If that is referring to the external spool valve then the paragraph above is not valid in this case- I will leave it up in case it helps others though.
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Your not gonna be able to push a dolly trailer around for **** in the woods. Discount that idea immediately. Also, no weight transfer to the tractor will be as bad as to much. If it's only the loading process that will put your drawbar nose weight over the limit, then fit stabiliser legs, it's a no brainer.
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Here you go then. I'm only 21 !! Got 1000 acres of forest between somerset and Surrey. Consisting of 4 pieces. All the kit I need. Nice truck. And diesel in the tank. And I did this by.......... At the age of 17 working a PAPER ROUND at 5.30am - 7am. Then worked at a hotel from 8 - 4. Then worked at a pub from 5 - close!! That made me the money to get back to what I love!! TRY IT!!! Your words, not mine. Sleep on it and pick yourself up in the morning. You clearly have the right attitude when on the up. Try to pick the vibe up when your down. Difficult I know, but master that and it will pay dividends like you wouldn't believe. Who exactly are the arbtalkers who led to this? Or was it more a case of a misunderstanding?
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excavator grapple | eBay Is that what you want? It's what's known as a digger grapple anyway, they all link to the jib and use the crowd ram to actuate. If you want a rotating grapple, try searching for a selector grab. If you want a non rotating grapple that opens and closes via the auxillary hydraulics, I've never seen one and can't see what it would do that the grapple linked to the jib wouldn't.
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Same points from a different angle as my pro/beginner, hardwood v softwood comparison. Makes sense too. Like I say, you can take it off but can't add it back on!
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Agreed. They are that bad that I forgot they did power tools! Wouldn't want an overpriced Draper power tool either though. Makita all the way.
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I certainly find Draper to be very bad value for money, shall we say. Never broken a Silverline socket, and I've given them some abuse! As they also have a lifetime warranty it comes down to price for me. I stand by what I said about Draper selling to farmers, etc, on the strength of a once good name. Much like DeWalt selling crap via ScrewFix to the public. The Silverline 1/4" socket set is the best out there IMHO. Not cheap cheap but very good value for money. If you wear Meindl walking boots, then there's only one chainsaw boot you will get on with: Chainsaw protective footwear & accessories | F R Jones and Son I wouldn't consider anything else. I assume, like me, that you went through half a dozen pairs of different walking boots before realising that only Meindl will do? It's the same with chainsaw boots!
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I think the key here is that the more experienced cutter, and much more so in pulpwood, will prefer a bit more hook and slightly lower depth gauges. This can be solved by doing it yourself from new. However, give that saw to a novice and they will be stalling the saw in the cut, and the much more frequent slight touches of the ground will quickly take the edge off the delicate hook. Hence the reason for supplying the chains as they are- you can always take it away but you can't add it back on! From a pro point of view also, you don't want the chain much different from stock when performing a boring cut on a tough beech or ash growing on the windswept hills around here. Two chains the same but sharpened differently are required when cutting hardwood or softwood, it's always been that way.
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In my opinion if a machine is doing timber handling for more than five minutes at a time then a thumb is a waste of money. A proper grapple for a 1.5 ton can be had for £450 with the VAT and will transform the job. You can't pinch out saplings, clear scrub etc with a thumb either. All this talk of having to adjust the thumb for different buckets, remove quickhitch etc. It's a compromise. Great for the odd stone or log. But for timber handling all day, no. The grapples have a pivot arrangement whereby both halves of the grab close at once. Don't get me wrong, they have a place and I'm fitting a hydraulic retractable one to my machine for use with the bucket on digging jobs 'just in case'. But if there's anything more than the odd rock to move then the grapple will be going on.
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If the draper boots are the wellies then by the look of them your asking a bit much to get a decent fit in any size by the look of them. Draper is all overpriced tat in my opinion. Selling to farmers, etc on the strength of the name. Far better hand tools in particular out there for half the money. Draper 'expert'? Don't make me laugh. Silverline is far more ergonomic and better value for money. Perhaps go to a chainsaw dealer and try on a few brands. Meindl are very good- a slightly wider fit shich suits me. Any decent chainsaw boot will incorporate a lining that moulds to your feet's shape for a comfortable days work.
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I wouldn't have said you needed a rotator- it's a LOT more expensive than just a grapple. With a bit of thought as to positioning of the processor the standard grapple will perform just fine. Plus you loose a lot of reach (forward and height) with a rotating grab dangling down. About £600 will get you a new grapple for a 2.5 ton machine. I think there was a thread here that mentioned over 2k for a rotating grapple. HTH
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It can be sawn, and will last as long as an oak sawn post no bother due to the tannins. Clefting is quicker, lasts even longer and gives the traditional rustic split finish for post and rails. From my limited experience of milling chestnut, it moves and warps like you wouldn't believe. The local mill doesn't bother with it, says it's too much hassle. How large are these stools? If they are oversize then milling may well be the preferred option, as there's no market for chestnut fencing that I know of that calls for timber greater than about a foot diameter. If they're getting on for two to three feet then I bet quartering them would make cracking straining posts. However they would not look acceptable to most people, only a few farmers who know better
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Universal tractor oil is fine unless it has wet brakes. Then you need super universal tractor oil. If the oil is on the level then I'd be checking (and changing as a matter of course) the filter next. Remember, cleanliness is next to godliness when dealing with hydraulics. You cannot take too long making sure it's clean before you dissasemble.
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I'd be very surprised to see a four inch post of any timber last that long, unless in a very hot dry climate. If they are sawn square then they are most likely oak. If you saw wood then you sever the cross grain, allowing an entry point for rot. Chestnut is usually split to avoid this. Couple that with the high levels of tannins and you have durability. It's still the best around in terms of value for money however. Re the peeling- I'm not sure on this one. I know of those who swear by it, and those who say it makes no difference. Chestnut has very little sapwood anyhow. It does seem to me that half round posts last longer than full round- and you never see the rot starting on this cleft side. However, I'm doubtful as to whether peeling would alleviate this, it's not the same as splitting them.
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They're cheaper because they come from honest grafters producing it from local coppice then selling direct. No middlemen, it's that simple. I bet the original producer of softwood posts gets less per post than the equivalent producer of a chestnut post. They don't need tanalising as they contain plenty of it naturally. And it's distributed throughout the entire timber, not just around the outside as it so often the case with tanalised stuff. Bugger all sapwood so no need to peel (less cost again) Also, as it's natural then there are no end of life disposal regulations if you are working for an organisation that does everything by the book. It's win win. The only question you need to ask is is it winter or summer cut. Only winter cut timber should be used for posts due to lasting much longer.
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Could be the fuzzy quality but they look chunky to me. Anyone else or is it just me?
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What are the offroad tyres in the first two pics and what are they load rated to please?
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By the time you've bought one, put lots of expensive petrol through it (they drink it), diesel in your motor, and your time, you'll wish you'd paid the farmer a few quid to do it in five minutes flat.
