doobin

I’m sure you know this, and you’re just being facetious with the resident drunken anarchist. But for the benefit of those more easily led astray… These don’t have a proper seal, just a loose bit of plastic against the end where the blades protrude from. It’s not like a round shaft where a rotary lipped seal can easily form a total seal against the oil. I laughed at his post because although he have have filled it with chain oil, he hasn’t yet realised that there’s none left inside it unless he’s stored it standing up for the last 15 years and not used it. Your workshop is full of trimmers for the reason that people assume once it’s ’filled with grease’ then it’s good. What actually happens is that they get hot with use, the grease gets liquid, and escapes from the blade end. And then it’s not replaced. What’s left inside emulsifies with the loss of the oil component of the grease through heat and ends up in the familiar waxy looking crap everywhere in the head except where it’s needed- on the gears and in particular the con rod bearings. stick a grease nipple into the fitting and grease it every other time it’s used and they will not fail.

Out yesterday doing some scrapes with the jcb. The TAB boom is so handy- lets you pull back in nice and tight to undercut the bracken rhizome cleanly against the blade. Then lift it up tight to build a bund behind you at a higher elevation.

Nice and cheap?

An impact wrench with 500nm of torque will stop turning a big auger long before a drill with 250nm. Impact wrenches provide jolts of peak torque to fulfil their design function of loosening or tightening a machine thread. All that happens when you stick an auger on them is that the tensile strength of the wood fibres absorbs the jolt of toque and the auger fails to advance any further. Impact drivers are use to drive screws into wood, yes, but the purpose of the jolts of torque there is to prevent cam out- where the driver bit slips in the head. Driver bits with a positive lock on the fiuxing head (such as timberlocks with their hex head) do not require an impact driver and will in fact drive far faster with the sustained torque offered by a drill. I must have explained this a dozen times over the years on here, and yet still people just can't grasp such a simple fact. A long arm brace on a quality drill allows you to impact far more torque into a wood thread or auger bit than you ever could with an impact gun.

These firms are full of shit. Greenwashing. you’ll get a mango tree planted in a plantation that was going to be planted anyhow, for profit. or it’ll be a scheme that starts off with good intentions, but there is no aftercare and every tree droughts off. There’s no regulatory body for all this bollocks. No oversight. Don’t waste your money.

‘Impact rated’ is nothing like the same as ‘an impact driver is faster than the sustained torque offered by a decent drill’

Yes, very easy to heat the auger up and then tie it in a knot.

. VersaDrive® TurboTip from Holemaker Technology HOLEMAKER-TECHNOLOGY.COM VersaDrive® TurboTip Impact drill bits are stepped tip bits that drill at twice the speed of standard bits without... these? don’t see them recommending and impact driver over a drill there.

You changing that for a new model already? Or going back to running one machine across sites? looks a great deal for someone in the arb trader 👍🏻

No, no, no. The last thing you want is an SDS or an impact driver. You don’t see oak framers using them for drilling the holes do you? I don’t understand why people think sds drills have loads of torque, they simply don’t as that’s not needed for concrete. you need sustained torque, not jolts of torque. You’ll just burn an sds up and an impact driver will just cam out with too much torque demanded of it. You need to be looking at something like the Milwaukee SuperHawg. Masses of torque and a nice long control handle. M18 FUEL™ SUPER HAWG™ 2-speed Right Angle Drill Driver Gen II | Cordless Drill Drivers | Milwaukee Tool UK UK.MILWAUKEETOOL.EU M18 FUEL™ SUPER HAWG™ 2-speed right angle drill driver gen II. Extremely long run time, up to 100 holes with a...

It’s been an amazing year for things that sometimes struggle with lack of sun/heat. I’m gutted my melons took an age to get started, it would have been a really good year for them and I fear they may not catch up. I left that marrow as a young courgette barely big enough to pick before I went away for five days. Came back to two big marrows plus loads of courgettes. Out of four plants this one is yielding the best by far. The yellow ones I’m really not keen on, funny shapes and get old before they get to a nice size. Aubergines looking the best they’ve ever been too, already ahead of the usual to medium fruits per plant offered up grudgingly at the end of the summer. The drip irrigation has really been key this season, and the weed membrane was the right thing to do also.

Larger, heavier blades. However most importantly an opening back and front to let taller thicker vegetation go under the deck without being flattened so much, and then be ejected easily behind once cut.

If you take out the mulch plate and let it shoot straight out the back on the rotary decks they are pretty good also.

Have you considered a subcompact tractor with a mid mounted rear-discharge deck? Pretty much the same thing as a ride on brushcutter but 4wd as standard and can be used for lots of other things. Independent brakes will make life easier also.

What brand were you running?