WFWales

Yes till around 2.00pm Hope to see you there Ash M

Way to go gensetsteve Thanks Alycidon - I'll check one out M

Hello again. I bought a couple of these - Search at Westfalia Mail Order UK. Here is what the supplier said in answer to the wet or dry question "....the working priciple of this moisture gauge is measuring the conductivity of the wood. The more water is inside of the wood the higher is the conductivity. But this is not a calibrated reference, it is just a guidline for detecting the most suitable firewood." Hmmm!! After seeking further clarification he came back with "....You are right and I agree with you when say it is closer to the dry method" So here is where I am at - use them as a guide! BUT...Moisture meters are being promoted to punters and producers as a good way to help buyers get dry (ready to burn) wood. We need to be clear about WHAT they are measuring so that when they go and poke their two prongs into our logs - that 33% on a dry basis = 25% on a wet basis = ready to burn....just!!! - I'm guessing their meter will show about 31%?? If you bang two nice dry logs together they "Rriiinnnnggg" pleasingly - perhaps someone could work out a sonic tester instead!!! Cheers..

You are invited to the official launch of our Woodfuel Quality Scheme at the Royal Welsh Show in Builth Wells next Tuesday. RSVP follow the link "NEW" on our front page The show is a biggun with something for everyone. WFW are in the Forestry Section. WFW Wales membership is open to firewood producers and sellers as well as those like Eco Angus suppling heating equipment. It's membership covers Wales and the Marches! We are aiming to Help Producers improve their product and consumers understand the importance of burning dry wood. Cheers Martin

WEBS2 funding available to firewood business in Weles - see the second box here Cheers

Oh Joy! Just had an email from the scout leader thanking me for putting him in touch with you and saying how very pleased with your generous service. Thanks to Arbtalk too - it really does work happy days. Martin

you could try J&S Vicary in Market Wieghton....just read an article about him in Forestry Journal saying new clients always welcome! M

Hi Breffni try Woodsource Wales :: Woodsource Wales select product category Forestry Services then check tree surgeons use this postcode for Machynlleth sy20 8ax these guys are close by - Arbcore Cheers Martin

Thanks Joy - Thats a good start - I'll pass your contact details/website on to the chap Cheers M

A group in Altringham wants 12x 8', 8x 12' and 8x 16' straight poles minimum 2.5" - 3" sitka would be ideal. bark on is fine but branches removed. Price please They can collect. Thanks Martin

Hey - Many Thanks for this Excellent information Chaps - ALL your input is really appreciated - now I have to digest it and work out how to incorporate it into a practical guide for producers wishing to get SBAS certified the WFW way - HETAS stipulate 25% max. Cheers M

http://www.epa.gov/burnwise/workshop2011/WoodCombustion-Curkeet.pdf page 14 onwards! M

Hi Alcidon. Check this out - http://www.woode3.eu/documents/Conversion%20tables_english.pdf I'll find some more info on monday!!! Cheers

does anyone know whether the 2 pin type of moisture meters give their results on a wet or a dry basis? Has anyone tried calibrating them and what did that entail? Cheers

Hi Alycidon Talk to the Firewood company - they area SBAS certified - THE FIREWOOD COMPANY. Cheers Martin

The calorific value depends on the moisture content of the wood - see the graph on this sheet - http://www.biomassenergycentre.org.uk/pls/portal/docs/PAGE/RESOURCES/REF_LIB_RES/PUBLICATIONS/FC-BEC-INFOSHEET09-LOGSFIREWOOD-2.PDF. Nothing to do with the method of drying, although over cooked wood can lose some heat value if "over cooked". Generally soft woods have a slightly highr calorific value than hard wood. Only burn dry wood!

Thanks Alycidon - I'll be in touch soon. I spoke to another chap at the show who had his own intersting technique for "overnighting". pop in some green ash into the stove, open the vents to get it roaring for a while, then close right down. In the morning (apparently) you have a charcoal and all the nasty creasote oils etc covering the inside of the firebox. Spark it up with a bit of paper and a couple of bits of kindling and off it goes like a rocket - burning all the nasty stuff, cleaning the glass again and getting hot very quickly. No opportunity for me to try this in my gas heated flat. Has any body heard of or tried this method? It was late at night at the beer tent and I had had a few sherberts so, um ..... he did emphasise that this only work with green ash

Yes,Terrific link I've just spent the weekend at the Woodfest in North Wales on our stand promoting the woodfuel industry in Wales. people really just dont realize the extent to which moisture content and a smoldlering fire left in overnight both knackers the chimney/flue and wastes their money by inefficiant burning of their fuel. Burning wet wood is like putting £20 of diesel in your car and then pouring another £10 down the drain. Most people dont do it with Diesel, but loads of them do it with their woodfuel! we are working to get some good material together for a new leaflet aimed at driving the point home. Get a moisture meter and only burn wood with a max m/c of 25% - preferably below 20%. make small fires burning them hot and fast to start, to get the max energy from the fuel. Softwood is good to burn too We are also promoting the HEATS SBAS quality scheme and helpong wood fuel producers through the certification process.

We'll be there! - do come along to the Woodfuel Wales stand for a chat

Tree Fail this will make you smile i think...#1 and #2 are priceless

see page 10 for enrgy values by species at 20% m/c http://www.northwoods.org.uk/files/northwoods/Firewood%20production%20manual_EN.pdf

I know what you mean but it's a bit of a head bender. I estimate that the difference in heat at 0% m/c between ash and larch is about 6%, but I cant get further than that.... ...however this leaflet has some basic destinctions of energy value by volume for hard and soft woods, ....you may be able to figure something?? http://www.woodfuelwales.org.uk/lluniau/firewood__working_out_the_cost_1.jpg http://www.woodfuelwales.org.uk/lluniau/firewood__working_out_the_cost_2.jpg good luck!

Cool, I like that spreadsheet....