Big J

Not a bad butt at all that. Bit of a twist in it, but nothing too serious. Milled and kilned a lot of cedar recently, and it's a joy to work with. The trees I bought were a touch bigger and I paid £60 a tonne roadside (had them uplifted to my yard).

Whilst I am sure that the kiln in the link would do a good job, I question the need to spend so much money. Update! Recently opened my first kiln load using a heat recovery unit in place of an extractor fan. Works in exactly the same way, bringing in cool dry air and pumping out hot wet air, but recovers a proportion of the heat lost to bring down the electricity cost. The results were very good indeed, with the most consistant moisture content that I have ever had from a mixed thickness kiln. Lowest MC readings were 8% from some of the inch thick elm and highest were just under 14% from 2 inch fresh sawn cedar. The cycle time has been reduced from 10 weeks to about 7-8 weeks and it runs at a higher and more stable temperature, whilst using less heat to maintain that temperature. I haven't had the bill yet, but I reckon that the unit (which cost me £290 off ebay, not quite new, but virtually unused) has saved me about £250 in electricity for this cycle alone. Additionally, the quality of the boards was very good indeed, not suffering at all for the slightly quicker cycle. It's a slow process, but I'm having a purpose built kiln built on site with a concrete base, thermolite breeze block walls and drive in doors. It means that I can take the air dried packets of timber (I tend to make stacks of 50 odd cubic foot of timber, 5ft wide - ideal for the forklift to lift and to stack in the kiln) and drive them straight in without the need to restack. Also, the air dried oak is now starting to come ready (1.5 inch stock sawn last October down to 26% MC) so the next kiln will feature it, along with some ludicrously quick drying 3 and 4 inch thick lime. That was sawn in February (and it had only fallen over the previous month) and is already down to 23% MC. As usual, anyone needing kilning help, don't hesitate to get in contact.

Done and done! Will be interesting to find see certainly - I must admit that I have never really given much thought to the files, but their efficiency is going to be key to chain sharpness.

You could send it to Helmdon Sawmills in Northamptonshire (not sure where you are though). He's cheap as chips for milling, and will accurately quarter saw it. I would be surprised if sending it to him, milling it and hauling it back was more expensive than milling it on site.

Oooh, very good! I like the combination of chainsaw mill, bandsaw mill and forklift. Means you can break down large logs and mill them with reduced sawdust. Keep us updated.

Thanks Rob! It's funny, I was doing deliveries last week and one chap I've been supplying for a couple of years has just opened a new gallery. Going in there to have a look, over half the pieces were made from timber of mine. I love to see the end product

My Navara (2011) does about 32-35mpg whilst dotting about without a trailer. Had over 40mpg on slowish motorway runs and down to 28mpg on long commutes when I'm late. Drops to 21-28mpg for towing, though never towing less than a tonne (empty weight of trailer). Don't ever buy a Navara though - comfortable yes, reliable - not a hope. New 2.5 Hilux's are very economical - my friends 11 plate does over 600 miles on a tank routinely on mostly road orientated ATs.

I intend only to sell a small amount of firewood this winter (about 30-40 cubic metres probably - as a result of offcuts from sawmilling) and you could get anything up to 14 inch logs. If they are too long, sod off and find a different supplier. I'm cheap, supply top quality logs that fit either of my stoves fine. If they don't suit, but them from someone else. Worst case scenario is I burn them myself, as they aren't really a core part of my business. Why anyone would buy a tiny stove is beyond me.

End of summer sale to try to clear the 40 odd tonnes of sawlogs I have bumbling around my yard. Most of my barns are full of sawn timber, I have loads of kilned stock and I need to shift some of the logs. So, having a sale to move it. About 20% off usual prices of green timber with many species in stock: Elm - over 10 tonnes of excellent quality stock available. Best logs are around 28 inch diameter with good figure and were mostly disease free when felled. In fact they are still growing in my yard! £12-16 a cubic foot dependent on quality. Oak - various logs, some beam grade, some nice pippy stock, some clean and straight, nothing too big bar one burred log that is hiding some metal in the middle. Very millable though as metal detector from Rob will guide me through it without hitting too much I hope. £12-16 a cubic foot. Cherry - couple of logs, one average quality, the other excellent. £10 a cubic foot for the lower grade, £14 for the better. Yew - Several good logs, up to 18 inch diameter and 4-8ft lengths. £15 a cubic foot. Beech - very clean 15 inch straight log. No branches, no twist, lower lengths have kilned very well. £12 a cubic foot. Ash - several logs up to 22 inches in diameter. Clean and straight, no branches. £12 a cubic foot. Cedar - quite a bit of cedar still kicking about. The best logs have been sold already, so more character grade stuff. Big diameters still, over 2ft, ideal for garden furniture projects. £10 a cubic foot. Sequoia - several tonnes available too. Excellent cladding or exterior carpentry wood. £10 a cubic foot. All prices are subject to VAT. Most economical method of transport is by double pallet. It can be very economical as we recently shipped over 50 cubic foot of timber to the south coast for about £120. I am more than happy to advise on setting up a kiln - it's easy to do and quite inexpensive. Jonathan

They certainly look the business. Nice to see a bar that starts off without paint - it just comes off anyway. Next time I need a bar Rob, I'll grab one from you to try. Jonathan

Mine comes in at around that: 18ft insulated container - £500 Vent Axia heat recovery unit - £290 (second hand) 2.5kw of heaters - £60, or thereabouts Carpet drying snail fan - £50 (second hand) Wiring - about £50 I would imagine, but I bartered with a neighbour to do it. Hygrometer (remote) - £25, so that you can monitor temperature and humidity Plug in thermostat to control heaters - £20 Total - £995. Takes 250 cubic foot on average, costs about £400 a cycle in electricty and produces £8000 of kilned timber per run.

Lovely. I can't even remember those boards - it's all mixing into a woody haze these days! I love that walking stick head - how on earth did you get the ball in the middle?

It doesn't give you any incentive to strive to be the best at what is a gruelling sport if any hint of success is met with accusations of cheating. Of all sports, road cycling is one of the very hardest - we don't scrutinise the lifestyles of our beloved footballers to any such degree, and they play a pointless game, cheat whenever possible (diving primadonnas), are attrocious role models for our youth and get paid 100 times what they should.

Certainly guilty of sideburn enhancing drug taking - no doubt in my mind!

I think that it is terribly sad. I am not in a position to pass comment of whether he is guilty or not. As far as I am aware, there is no material proof, only testimony. People can be horribly cruel given the right incentive. Either way, he was to me, and still is a tremendously inspring chap. I competed, albeit briefly in regional and national timetrials aged 14-15 in 1998-1999. I watched the Tour religiously and envisaged myself having a chance at competing on a higher stage later in life. Regrettably, injury raised it's ugly head and that didn't happen. Regardless, he was a great allrounder with an uncrushable spirit. To come back from cancer to truly dominate a sport like that is an undeniable achievement, whether you believe he was clean or not. I honestly don't think that there was much, if any difference with the 'supplementation' amongst all the top cyclists at that time. The only purpose that the stripping of the titles serves is to destroy a national hero. It won't make anyone not use drugs in the future. Very sad.

No we didn't. They only gained a parliamentary majority by entering into a coalition with the Liberals, who frankly are meant to be the antithesis to the Tories. This is why the political landscape is so depressing in the UK. There is no choice. Whether you vote for Tories, Labour or the Liberals, you are effectively going to get the same politics.

My experience with Aldi and Lidl over the years is that the guarantee is a money back guarantee. If it breaks, you take it back (often without receipt) and your money is refunded without question. I don't think any other retailer gives you such a good guarantee.

Questions of who should buy the saw aside, could it not be a useful chipper/fencing saw/ With a full three year guarantee, what is the worst that could happen?

You could build one yourself - it's quite easy and cheap too. About £1000-1500 sets up a kiln that will dry 250 cubic foot in a go for a cost of about £2 a cubic foot in electricity. Jonathan

Classic Armstrong Miller ponytail sketch: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C8A4DrP11sw]Armstrong & Miller s2e2 - YouTube[/ame]

I'd like to know how many people on here would have had a) the patience and b) the determination to remove a reasonably sized dead walnut like that with an axe, a silky and a spade. I for one, would have failed in a blue cloud of profanities! Kudos Mr Fox, kudos!

It did have the wind down legs, yes, but if on an uneven surface, you might have to chock one or more of them. Load a log too hard and it can knock it off. I very much see what you are saying Dean, I do, but I think the best way to go, if you want to mill any volume of timber is to try to get a more robust machine with hydraulics. I remember questioning their value here when I was first looking for a mill, but I wouldn't be without them now. Also, you can get a lot of days of hydraulic mill hire for the price of a Lumbermate/LT15 etc! Some cheap bandmill options: Bookman's Bandsawmill - Home - starts at a bit over £1000 Turner Mills - Ground Models - starts at £3000 Thomas 2411 Bandsaw Mill - £2900 Loads and loads of USA manufacturers to consider.

Have you had an LT15 previously? The only Woodmizer I've had is the LT40 and I do fully appreciate that you can't make direct comparisons. When I had the Lumbermate I was more inexperienced with band milling but the band breaking habit is one that is common amongst Lumbermates. It might well be an alignment issue with that machine, but I could be wrong. When using the Lumbermate, ensure that you are on a very level surface as there is flex in the track, and it's easy to cut bent boards. Also, keep an eye on it as you load the logs, as the machine only weighs 750kg and an enthusiastic log loading can knock it off too.

What's wrong with Birch? A thinning job we did a few months back involved working in a stand of self seeded birch 8 years old, some of which were 30ft tall. Rarely a significant branch, and perfect for a machine like this: Usewood Pro - Small Harvester

The little Pezzalato does look like a nice mill. I would struggle to work a manual mill now that I have used hydraulic. Avoiding cupped boards is all about blade alignment and sharp bands. It's not to say I've not cut boards with a cup - I'm still learning (180 machine hours into my Woodmizer) but it's happening a lot less. You have to change the band regularly, whilst it's still cutting OK. One hour in the wood, no more. The cost of resharpening the band is peanuts compared the value of the timber cut.