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daltontrees

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Everything posted by daltontrees

  1. It's looking a little like P. dryadaeus too, but anamorphic Fistulina would be much more interesting.
  2. Subsidence and heave risks are dependent on location. Where is the property?
  3. Cotoneaster frigidus or C. x watereri a.k.a. Tree Cotoneaster.
  4. Sometimes I am quite embarrased at the treatment members of the public get when coming onto this site for help. If you're the type of memeber who thinks it's going to be too difficult a job, if you're the type who will criticise a would-be client for not understanding the ins and outs of tree law and risk assessment, for not knowing what you know, well fair enough the poster is better off without you, and probably better off without the cynicism and speculation. At least Mark J has had a go at a helpful answer, although I'd add to his comments that a report that states that it is not possible to reach a definitive conclusion (because you can't see the tree fully) can be relevant and useful in the right context. I have had first-hand experiences of supposed survey reports which are shockingly incompetent, by people who are way out of their depth. Sorry to have to be blunt but they have mostly been from contractors playing at consultancy. And a few from 'consultants' who really ought to go back to school or back up their tree experience with some structured learning. So fair enough to the OP for asking for help. He is clearly worried about a tree and needs help from someone who knows their stuff. What's wrong with that? He will be better off with someone with the right helpful attitude who's not seeing it as a difficult client. If I was in the area I'd help but I am 300 miles away. Honestly, some of you have been not just unhelpful but quite rude. It's bloody obvious what needs to be done for this would-be client. I hope he finds someone with the right credentials and almost cas importantly the right attitude. He can message me for a preliminary opinion of he wants.
  5. Nah, the more complicated the better. Good if it puts off the lightweights.
  6. Ditto. Location may lead to a specific recommendation. Or you can try the Arb Association's list of registered consultants or thevInstitute of Chrtered Foresters (which also covers arboriculture) list of members..
  7. Just plain ash. Maybe people are confused when they see a healthy ash, it's so rare now. This is what ash trees used to look like in a slightly alkali soil.
  8. My sis goes on and on about Google Lens, so I tried it on a common tree. It got the ID wrong, and suggested 6 alternatives, all of which were wrong.
  9. No disrespect but how can you not know what rare species you have? Did you buy a lucky bag of seeds and shuck them round? Doesn't look like campestre. Could do with some nitrogen.
  10. Probably Malus, maybe just domestica. Subtle IDs from juvenile leaves are generally doomed to failure.
  11. 'Poplar Petiole Gall Aphid'. Never seen it in person.
  12. What Jake said, near impossible not to get tears with willows.
  13. Agreed, but I wouldn't say 'major', as felling restrictions slow down removals to 20 cube a year or only allow it in gardens. WE could discuss 'valuable' all day, but in brief the trees on a development site may be valuable to society but not to the developer, so the developer gets to say what goes. In most ways taht's fair or else we would be compelling everyone everywhere to keep their trees and whereas personally I woudn't mind that, the burden of admin would be huge and it starts to sound a bit like an authoritarian state. Or we pay people to have trees. Again, I wouldn't mind that in principle.
  14. Yes, if no protection status. But the protection status could include tree preservation order, conservation area, site of special scientific interest, felling license/permission limits, nesting birds, bats and bat roost features, protected tree species, title conditions and maybe a couple more.
  15. I did say I was living there reluctantly. However, I dug the whole garden over to a depth of about 40cm, picked out and then sieved out every stone, pebble, bit of plastic etc. and took them to the dump. Rotivated and re-stocked the garden with topsoil with endless compost and sharp sand dug in. Worms introduced. I now can't hold the grass back. Plus I am the last house in the street and have free rein to guerilla garden about 2 acres of woodland, which is turning into a bit of a personal arboretum because every DED victim is being replaced with a seedling from whatever building site is being pillaged that week. Joy is all around, if not inside. And my office is in the garden, designed purposefully by me to let the joy in. 🌄☀️🌲🌳 Thoroughly de-grimmed.
  16. Thanks. And just when I had made my mind up to aim for the 90mm. The VT is a heck of a long knot, I found it had too much scope to jam on the krab.
  17. Maybe, but what a joyless, sterile, grim world that would be. My fees add to cost but this is more than outweighed by the value that is added.
  18. Thanks all, I will get some 10mm, try it at a few lengths with a VT and if it works I'll get a Teufelberger E2E.
  19. I stand corrected. Much sharpening saved there.
  20. Not true, the Barratt box I am currently reluctantly calling home has at least 6 inches of soil on top of the rubble.
  21. Different experiences. I represent just about every volume house builder in the country and have a good constructive rapport with most of the TOs. Somehow we manage to get about 5,000 units a year squeezed in amongst the trees.
  22. I want to start using my hitch climber which I have had for yonks but never bothered with. I climb on chunky 13mm ropes and am used to a swabisch hitch for general occasional DdRT. I now only really do climbing surveys for bats and risk. What would be a good eye to eye to use with 13mm and hitch climber, and what knot? There seem to be loads available at a range of prices from £10 to 50. First time I tried a 8mm and distel and ended up on the ground at walking pace, quite unsettling. Tried this week with someone elses kit and the VT kept failing to bite because it couldn't slide past the krab. I expect the hitch and e2e should end up being quite short to ease tending, but it's all a bloody mystery to me. Any quick advice welcome.

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