LGP Eddie

Looks like you won't be getting one then Stephen! You simply can't get the performance from an Excavator to do both, despite there being tweaks to the pumps etc that some will claim to be able to do. A separate engine pack is really the only way this can be fully achieved, or having a much larger base excavator. You'll never replicate a hedge cutter on a tractor setup and no need to? The technique is just different thats all, and perfectly effective flailing the area required and moving on. I have no issues in a very wide range of applications and as soon as I touch the tracks it's virtually the same as turning the mower off. Eddie.

That's a very good question of which the answer isn't as straightforward as you think? The general perception is you need to have a CPCS card with the required category to operate a machine on site, where the actually reality is you only have to provide proof you are competent should the worst happen. Many commercial clients will demand the CPCS, stating their insurance insists on it etc etc, and it's their choice to do so? Others are happy to accept other cards from schemes such as the NPORS, and plenty will accept 'in house' training certificates. CPCS is a good thing in some respects, but has now become a complete money making racket, changing the goalposts every couple of years to make everyone go back at great expense with no real increase in benefit. The simple fact is no card scheme whatsoever can provide a client with any understanding of the operators skill level or experience, with someone fresh out of training having exactly the same card in his hand as a 20 year plus veteran? Some choose to just operate such kit with no formal training and technically there's no requirement, but should the worst happen the first thing you will be asked is to prove your competence? A decent local training provider will provide a package for you and provide the necessary proof for an awful lot less than any of these card schemes, but it's only of value if a client will accept it? Personally I use CPCS as it's the one universally accepted, so possibly less hassle in the end? Eddie.

There is a Kubota 1.5 tonner doing a bit on the last half of this video (top right corner link), to give some idea? Exac-One Ltd - Mini Mower Eddie

Hopefully deal done today for this? Ford 5610H with loader and full ag spec rear end with pickup hitch as a bonus. I'm certain it will be big enough to handle a Tajfun processor if required around a yard? Eddie.

Many Congratulations Stephen, I sincerely hope she serves you well. I doubt you'll regret the investment and it'll certainly be more than capable of handling a huge variety of work. If you need any guarding or winch fitting I can recommend John Craig at JCC Engcon he does some fantastic work, and if you can think it up he can probably do it! Eddie.

You still can, and it's pretty much approaching that build figure, it'll actually be approx 15% more now starting from fresh? Ross at Sandhill plant is dealing with the sale for me as the machine is of a specification attractive to the Scandinavia market, and obviously he's experienced in this. It is possible to deal directly with myself. Eddie.

Possibly not the best demonstration I'd fully agree, he seemed to be doing a bit of sword fighting around it instead of getting on with it, and reaching for the track levers to move is normally a giveaway? It was just to demonstrate the difference with this type of Shear against the more traditional type that grabs the limbs? Plenty now have their own machine or access to them, and If I could gain a little hire instead of sitting in the nettles it would help justify them? Eddie.

It's a real hard call for smaller machines to clamp or not in my opinion? On the one side you have the simple fact you know what's going to happen, or so you think? Which leads straight into the other argument, on a smaller machine you're better off not gripping in case you can't hold it? The principle of the type with no grip is they always go the one way as the blade driven through acts as a wedge, with the operator probably providing a bit of encouragement via the rotate? I think most people have seen them at the Demo's now but here's a 5 tonner with one? [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lMPaiSiaM-E&feature=c4-overview&list=UUrtdH-_QESwXTqwHhJp5nmg]Tree Shear TL250 - YouTube[/ame] Eddie.

I have a need for a couple of Tree Shears of differing sizes for projects, but obviously they won't be utilised 100% of the time? It won't be too difficult to have universal top brackets made to fit a wide range of machines, and pipework is pretty straightforward on these? I'm just gauging if this is something that people may wish to hire short term for their own projects, as I don't normally self drive anything but these are pretty bombproof and I'd be fairly confident? Basically a 10" rotating shear for 5 to 7 tonne and a 14" rotating shear for 8 to 15 tonne machines? The other question would be do you wish to grip the limb you cut or is reasonable direction control and no shock loadings better? Just gauging a bit of interest and if I go this route then it'll obviously go on here with full details via the correct channels. Eddie.

I really think your starting point is transport? The 2.6 class is just a compromise brought about by our towing legislation and you have to be ultra careful with a 2.6 tonne to come inside the weight? I doubt the one pictured would scrape under 3.5 on the stripped down Ifor Tipper? Then there's the 3 tonne class, as is rightly pointed out has so many variables from manufacturers it's crazy? Again this is all about the need to stay under the 7.5 tonne weight, and just using Kubota's example, the 71,91 and 101 could all loosely be termed 3 tonne but totally different animals? Once you're over this and into a dedicated haulier then the sky is the limit obviously, but you'd be amazed just how quickly an 8 tonner can appear big in woodland with a 13 tonne impossible? In the same terrain a 5 tonner could be so much more agile, it's really a case of horses for courses? The other factor is who's local to back you up? Plenty of choice of manufacturers, but no use if it's half a day to get a diesel filter? It's normally not hard to see what everyone else is running, which is a reasonable pointer of decent backup? I'd say if you can tow it with what you have just dip a toe in with a Takeuchi TB016? This will be a revelation from having nothing and I'd bet it'll never leave you anyway? You can then add a 3 or probably 5 tonner depending how it all goes to fit your workload exactly? It should be perfectly possible to add a TB016 for a reasonable timescale for almost zero in depreciation terms, and should cost very little to run? A quick hitch and grapple will get you going and you'll be stunned by what it will achieve? Eddie.

A fair old project really, that turned into a tacklefest!! A few more, but I'm waiting for the best pics and video. It's a long way down when you look out the side window from that cab! Hijack over, what size of machine can you realistically transport taking into account a few attachments/buckets will be going with you? Eddie.

Did you say 30 Tonne?? I had this for a very special project recently and it had the job covered nicely!

We use a direct cut side mounted forager for this type of work and worse! It'll be needing a fair bit more than 35hp to do the job, we find 90-110 ideal but it would make a very tidy job of it. I'd honestly have thought Sheep the answer to this site, plenty of them will have that gone in no time? A flail mower will be ideal for the other work you describe I'm certain? Eddie.

They get great reviews and every time I walk past one I think to myself why don't they make a van version? Surely it would make a brilliant all round small 4x4 van with pretty decent off road ability, that is currently just not available in any form at present? Eddie.

One massive vote for the Freelander2, the worst thing Landrover did was saddle it with the name of the previous model and all it's issues! I had one from new for my wife and in all honesty it never had a single problem in 5 years? It was main dealer serviced every year, and apart from one set of tyres at approx 28,000 miles that was it. A really nice vehicle and it would leave my Defender for dead on simple snowy/icy surfaces. Eddie.

I'd disagree on there being little difference between 1.5 tonners? There are so many specs and variants now from each manufacturer that you can have a situation of a 1.4 tonne machine with standard tracks going up against a 1.9 tonne with expanding undercarriage? Add in the engine variants, pump setups, arm lengths, etc etc and they really can be night and day? All will get the job done of a fashion, some with more finesse but the popular ones have risen to the top of a very competitive market on their merit with residual values to match? I'd disagree that Utilities prefer Kubota in this class, I'd put Takeuchi in front, but JCB's current large fleet order push is seeing them with some big orders. Kubota will stand a good amount of punishment no doubt, the simple fact is the Takeuchi you can take it off and knock it straight again, but a plastic panel from Kubota will bring tears to your eyes! No problem when it's charged out again to the Hirer, but if you own it, then it can be a big factor. Eddie.

Many congratulations I'm certain it'll be more than up to the job, very few can ever match the Takeuchi hydraulic smoothness and the build is always bombproof! The interesting point is how the 219 will hold in value terms over the TB016? I suspect vey well once they get a loyal following of their own. Eddie.

Just thought I'd bump this back up as there's the first couple of the seemingly perfect spec Takeuchi tb219's come up secondhand I've seen and they look really tidy examples? I've yet to try one out, but if they can beat the TB016 they'll be going some? JMS Equipment Eddie.

What a great setup you have there, I'm really liking that! I don't mind admitting I used to scoff at the Horse Logging concept until I witnessed one in true action. I wouldn't hesitate to get one in now if a project demanded it, probably in something like tight going where a short skid could bring timber to a more suitable point for the Tracked Dumper to forward it out. In regard to the original question, I just wonder what method you currently have that you are struggling with? Eddie.

Sad to see machine Operators getting a hard time, when there should be healthy respect for anyone who is proficient at their chosen work. Purely from a Machine Operating perspective, usually if you can't do the basics from scratch with minimal tuition on something like a Mini Digger in 4hrs then it won't be for you? I'd expect you to be scratching about, loading dumpers safely and the like by then? From then on my perspective has always been it's only approx 30% of how you actually 'Drive' the machine the rest is knowing the work to get the best from that machine in the task given that you then become an Operator? The simple fact there are so many variables makes it something that you should still be learning every day, and if you think you know it all that's time to hang your boots up you'll start to be a danger to everyone? The Arb world must have it's challenges and things you guys look/aspire towards, and there was a very good point raised that sometimes you have to change your surroundings to get outside the limited circle of skills you're perhaps in at present to gain more? I've had to do this several times on machines, I wanted to move onto other machines and gain more skills with perhaps bigger challenges and it's helped build me into what I'd consider an Experienced Operator? Please don't just judge machine operating by jumping on that Mini Digger and doing a bit? Just as you have your challenges, I doubt you'd be ready to use a 20 tonne Rubber Duck on a 6 metre deep sewer cut down a high street just yet? My own view is age is no demonstration? I've seen fantastic young machine operators and plenty of old guys who just want to fill the seat and went past any interest in learning years ago. I'll take someone with more than just the basics, probably a couple of years? But what I want to see is that willingness to learn and the standard they want to achieve? You will always be a reflection of what you surround yourself with? Look around your firm and ask yourself when was the last time we looked at doing something different, do you all attend Industry shows, when was a new piece of kit last tried out, who's just gained a higher qualification etc etc? If it's same old, same old you may want to start to broaden your horizons? Respect to all you guys I certainly can't climb a tree from a Lever Puller!! Eddie.

My suggestion for Mesh is based on the images supplied and the simple fact there could be any amount off fill under that bit of sub base? For the extra cost it'll be there forever. 4" would do the job and an accurate 5" would be very nice, but for someone who's not particularly experienced, then aiming for a 6" pour will allow plenty of tolerance. I'd agree you'll be surprised just where you an get one of the smaller 4 wheel mixers, but 1/2 mile isn't the end of the world and just get a Volumetric mixer in? He'll wait no problem, mix it as exactly as you like, conveyor it up into a dumper and you can judge the last bit pretty accurately with no waste. Eddie.

Always a bit more awkward when there are walls surrounding the pour with no shutters to tamp off. The way I'd normally tackle something like this is with a laser level and make up a staff from a square of 1/4 ply and a 2x2 upright so it actually floats on top of the concrete. It just means you can get your level anywhere you like and keep working your way out. I'm lucky to have a single grade laser so can actually put a fall from back to front if required? However easy options for you are? Agilia Concrete, simply brilliant but more expensive? In such an application you would simply tip it in and go over it with a hand tamp job done! It will truly self level and hey presto next morning the finish will be approaching a powerfloat finish? It is such a labour saving method it's untrue (you can easily do that on your own), and I've seen some stunning results from it. You could put boards down each side, but obviously these are a nightmare to tamp off being so narrow, and you don't really want a couple of inches of board down each side? The solution I have used with great success is to actually fix some 2x2 angle iron down the walls each side at the desired height. This is easy to tamp off (you can even set a fall to the front) and will make no difference to the integrity of the floor at the edges. I would suggest a brush finish if you can too? An easy float after you have tamped and then install the brush onto it when it's good and ready ready will have that done in seconds with no hassle plus not expensive to hire. If you are happy with the easy float finish, and you'll amaze yourself how easy it is, you can just leave it and forget brushing anyway. I would suggest going with 6" unless you are prepared to spend the time to ensure your sub base is absolutely spot on to achieve a true 5", and the 6" will more likely give you 4" to 7" here and there? I absolutely detest fibres, and in my opinion you can't beat a layer of mesh. It will be simple enough here to install in sections as you bring the Dumper in and tip onto it. I would suggest some plastic underneath if possible, allow for the fact the concrete isn't going to like the dumper trip much and will separate out somewhat, lastly get plenty of assistance if you can. Best of luck. Eddie.

KX161 is one of my all time favourite machines and really can punch well above their weight. Just my opinion, but there many hitch options available for a 161 and my advice would be to swap your current unit for one with better geometry? It shouldn't be too costly, they are about used and a brief appeal usually turns something up? Interestingly 5 tonne is pretty much the crossover point at which anything below I consider better off with the more simple semi quick hitch? Many overlook these, but they are simply the best method for smaller machines and can keep a low build height. Semi quick hitches don't get the wear in them you associate with many of the small quick hitches, and if they do you can simply replace the pin or bushes. One huge thing in their favour is the single pin you have to put in manually is in reality the safety pin also? You have to put it in or you can't work, hence safer than a manual hitch and safety pin setup? A different hitch may not fully cure the grapple, but a curved arm shouldn't be difficult to fabricate. Eddie.

The steel tracks made a bit of a mess on the alloy floor and it was hanging over a bit, but once loaded the Defender took it in it's stride!!

Plenty here would like to see that!!