Bunzena

I think the bacteria lives in the salivary gland of the tick - not it's gut. This is why it's vital to remove the head. If that is still attached then the bacteria can migrate into the wound and cause the infection. But, agreed, it has to be done properly and as soon as. I've got a 'tick-key' bought online that has instructions engraved on it - so even a numpty like me can't forget. And - as many people have said, you need a GP that's aware and prepared to prescribe the antibiotic. Alternatively - just insist. Just another thing to be vigilant about - along with scammers and stealth taxes.....

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Smart meters. Then tax the electricity specifically used to charge vehicles.

One of the very last, great, radio DJs.

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Long shot - but California Bay? Umbellularis californica.

Cage traps all day long. Round here squirrels seem most active just after dawn and in the late afternoon and a trap is never off duty. Catching 30-40+ a year and this does make a dent in the local population. I will also shoot using an air rifle [.22] but they are quite wary and hard to get close to. Takes a lot of time and trouble and it's not many added to the total. Like GarethM have tried the CO2 cartridge traps and had absolutely no luck with them

Thanks Nepia - drilling a hole to drain the water is a really great idea. Thank you.

Thanks Peds - more pictures attached. Reassuring that Apples are tough!

"Inherited" and old apple tree that's had a major branch cut off a while ago. The junction has now rotted back to create a significant hole just above (and now into) the main trunk. The hole fills up with rainwater and is rotting further - causing a black 'dead' track on the trunk itself. Doesn't look good. Tree is around 4 meters high, trunk is only 20 cm in diameter - hole is around 8-10 cm deep. We'd like to try and preserve the tree for as long as possible (has sentimental value) - so wondering what - if anything - could be done to help. Fill the hole? Cover the hole? Further surgery? Any ideas - gratefully received. Thanks.

I've got a pair of Timberland branded AV gloves - had them about 10 years. Still available online. They're padded and weighted and assume they work on a similar principle to the handlebar grips and weights that motorcycle handlebars use. Do they work? Yes - sort of. They seem to reduce some of the higher frequency vibration but it's not night and day. As an absolute guess it feels as if it's down by 25-30%. They are thick, they are hot - so only get used very occasionally with machinery that vibrates a lot. Mainly a two-wheeled tractor that's got a large, 'vibratey' single cylinder engine. If you've got £70-80 to blow - might be worth a try. If I lost mine - would I buy again? Not really sure.

So what do I mean by TLC at the start? That mulching - needs to be nice and deep. Maybe deeper than I can see on the photo. Keep it away from the base/union - and top-up regularly. Keep it well watered. In the summer - depending on conditions - at least once a week or more often. A thorough soak of the root-ball and the soil around and further out to encourage the roots to spread. If it's in scorching hot sun - consider some shading for the first year or so. This can be a real faff - but it's something we do if we start to see leaf-tips browning. We erect a bit of shade fabric on some stakes to give that shade. I would also keep it staked. I know you've removed the stake - but it's a tall tree with [what looks like] a small root-ball. It needs enough support in the short-term for those roots to bed-in. I'd drive a short, stout stake in at 45 degrees near the base and then tie/strap it in there. This will leave the majority of the stem to whip around in the wind - and the base nice and anchored. The trunk will then stiffen and grow properly - and the roots will be able to do their stuff.

To be really pernickety - this is not a Japanese Maple [japonicum, dissectum, palmatum, etc.] - it's Acer rubrum 'Redpointe'. In my experience, it's a good deal more robust than most true Japanese Maples. So you could deal with the roots as you see fit - and it should cope okay. However - I'd just leave it. There's a lot of misinformation about Acers and problems with girdling. Almost all Japanese Maples sold in retail are in pots that are too small. As Stubby points out - they are typically very pot bound. So this sort of root issue is very common. None of the ones I've bought that have root systems like yours have succumbed. They may need a little more TLC at the start - but that's all. Instead, make sure it is well staked and well mulched up to the edge of the ring of stones you've planted it in. That way any new fibrous roots will spread out and the tree should be fine. It should go on to make a beautiful specimen.