Dean O

Thanks guys - ive added a couple of extra numbers in from your suggestions. the comment regarding ice numbers and locked phone was one I hadn't thought of, though with them on the contact sheet - they're now available to all anyway Not for me personally - I'd only normally expect to see contact numbers specific to the job (like the clients' number) on the ssra these emergency numbers will be in the vehicle packs along the RA - so saving writing them in every time, and saving space on an RA which already takes up 2 sides of A4. thanks again Dean

padding out an emergency contact sheet for vehicle packs ive got the obvious - 999,912 non emergency medical and police, regional fire bat helpline tree officer contacts anything else?? thanks Dean

Ive had two t540's in for repair for various reasons, for some time, so needed another saw. with all the problems weve had with the husky toppers thought I might as well give the new 201 a go. weve had it for a few months and its been good reliability wise. though the husky has the edge slightly on 'productivity' (cant think of another way of putting it). it needs to be sharp to work well as doesn't quite have the grunt of the 200t or the t540, I know this states the obvious - but you can really tell once the chain has lost its edge a little. ive been told that husky are releasing another version of their topper due to the recurrent issues people are having with AV mounts and seals causing air leaks. but when this will be god only knows..

dragon access - Huw Rees 07900800315 based Cardiff CF23

davies implements in Carmarthen were installing a winch on a 230 vtr when I was there last - a new install but looked neat with the winch tray being an option fit at the dealer on the machine from the factory. believe they were using a 'goodwinch'.

we tend to use proclimber or bridgend college depending on who has got dates when we need them. Ive also used MWMAC for different things. many years ago I did my cs30-31 with a chap called Cliff Cook, who I believe is still working in the Carmarthen - Swansea area. he was a good trainer and a great character - I haven't his contact details unfortunately - but someone must have

I can vouch for the wheel clamps this is the clamp I have, seems to be well made, easy to put on and off, if a little heavy to lug around.... the orange finish is now a little tatty with the exception of the galv finish on the legs (not galv but cant think what it is) which has worn well purchased 7 or 8 years ago and sat outside on the trailer in all weather. Ive emailed for prices on various things but no reply yet..

at last... Lincmaster only took 3 evenings on google to track them down!

Thanks guys, no wasn't bulldog. its the track lock that I'm particularly after at the mo.

Sorry - I know there was a post on wheel clamps recently just about to buy some security products and there was a company that I bought a wheel clamp from years back that also sold track locks and hitch locks too. they were at the apf last year and I took a card (which I cant find) from them with it in mind I'd be after some more stuff the wheel clamp I had off them has been so robust .... but I just cant think who they were, Google's not coming up with anything. anybody got a clue? thanks Dean

Thanks guys soils lovely in this spot and most other plants in the garden are acid lovers and doing OK, so I guess its lime mortar from the old walls causing a problem. will confirm the advice....

Hi guys. was asked about a camellia in a clients garden today and gave a little hesitant advice but told them I'd ask around for some confirmation/ further advice. apologies no picture... but yellowing leaves in general, some retaining green veins, die back on periphery of 'canopy', and lots of black staining on leaves. I've suggested cholorosis and iron deficiency, with the black staining being from aphid or scale damage/ honeydew... the soil in the garden is generally acidic - looking around at the other plants in the garden - which all seem pretty healthy, but this is next to an old out building and I'm wondering whether there's some lime getting to the soil from the old walls causing a problem with iron uptake?? its an old large specimen in an old manor house and they wish to try and bring it back. what would you guys prescribe? any particular fertilisers? I also suggested a sugar water solution may give it a boost (maybe a long shot but couldn't hurt?), I know there's been some work with wood chip from species high in sugars used - but mulching the ground here wouldn't be suitable, and I'm sure I've read of someone using a sugar solution as a soil ameliorant to boost soil microbes/ mycorrhizae an one used a sugar water mix with good outcomes - any one know of a suitable proportion sugar to water? they suggested pruning to rejuvenate but I don't think this approach is ever a good idea personally. thanks for any advice guys

I agree with tree quip on this. your climbing kits can both be relatively basic, but you'll still need a bigger budget once you account for everything. but to answer your op the only other cost consideration might be the wages while training/being assessed

looks like its in the wrong place (the spruce that is), fell it and plant a replacement elsewhere. or if you cant bear to remove it now, plant a replacement anyway - then when you finally decide to (cause its likely) the replacement will be established and it wont be such a knock to loose it.

Is this normal practice in xmas tree growing?

there is size categorisation within bs8545 and the Horticultural Trade Association specifications which are worth a read/ glance, but these are more to do with specifying trees for planting based on their size when leaving the nursery than categorising trees already within the landscape. I must admit I've not come across purely size categorisation anywhere else that I can think of. But could imagine it being used to bracket trees into stem dbh for tenders etc

don't know if theres a suitable selective monocot herb but could you suggest hand cut and scrape turf layer with a spade - spray with round up in the spring before the trees come into leaf

difficult from a picture but if you could make space for a small (14m) tracked picker in the little concreted path to the right of the building - looks like you'd get the reach others might be better to advise - what's the distance between the wall of cowshed and the wall line with the gutter? a much bigger tracked mewp might still be cheaper than scaffolding (particularly if you can have a half day rate from someone local) - or can you get a truck mount nearby?

I would say the same as Marc, above, Id moved over to the husky toppers but am now moving back to stihl, fed up of replacing stretching AV mounts before the saw snaps in half but the spring mounts occasionally go too. I dipped my toe with a 201 while 2 of the husky toppers were in getting fixed at the same time, and must say so far (only 2 weeks) its been good.

I believe that if they've done well they can have a second litter around September time. might be about to lay some eggs

We have a position available for a qualified tree surgeon with a minimum of 2 years experience. to join a team within a small AAAC co in the Neath/ Swansea area qualifications required: CS - 30, 31, 38, 39, 40 clean driving licence advantage: CS - 32, 41, mewp PA1-6AW, chipper ops, stump grinder ops. Candidates should be able to demonstrate the ability to present themselves professionally under all circumstances. We have a strong ethos of staff training and development. Please email CV's or enquire further to Dean Osell: [email protected] or see website for delivery address.

position available for a committed and highly motivated individual to join a team within a small AAAC company in the Swansea/Neath area. no qualification or experience essential, but may be an advantage. please send a CV demonstrating how and telling me why you feel you are suitable for this position. this is a full time, permanent position with the opportunity of training and career progression please enquire about the position or send CV's via email to Dean Osell [email protected] or see our website for address details

also - any one know if planning permission is required? thanks Dean

thanks guys - yes its water that the problem rather than leaking smoke. its been an issue over the last couple of years that really now wants sorting and be done with. from what's been said here and what I can find out I'll be needing... terminal top/ rain guard a metre of twin wall flue (for the above roof bit) a lead or aluminium tray - these seem to have a rubber/silicone neck for weather protection. the flue lining was 316 grade so it seems that I should bite the bullet and change this while I'm at it. doh. anything I'm missing? any one know a good, all under one roof, internet source?

We are about to knock down a leaky chimney to bellow the height of the roof tiles and replace with a stovepipe. at the moment there is a stainless steel liner within the breast to the pot, burner was installed around 7 years ago. 1) is it worth replacing the liner while at it? 2) any one know of a good source for everything I need? 3) what do I need? thanks for any help /direction anyone can give. Dean