Rupe

What the ropeman? I guess it was intended as a back up for hauling gear during big wall rock climbing or maybe as emergency rescue use. Don't think it was ever intended for tree work, but we are an adaptable bunch!

It will work without a splice on the end, you can still attach a ball to catch the retreiver.

Petzl grillion is better suited than the gri gri. Ropeman?? That would just be silly!

I don't remember typing anything, and can't think why I even looked on AT ?! Went to the cinema to see Avatar at 4.30pm got home at 3.30am! Good work!

Did I really type that at 3.44am! Yes was a bit of a late one last night. Clubs don't seem to close anymore!

That looks as though it sucks ass!

I think your over worrying/complicating things. Gear should pass loler inspection on the day, but even loler is only a guide, tree comps are not work so loler doesn't actually apply. The head judge has final decision on the day if anythign is unclear. I have gear checked at many comps and have never worried about labels. Practice your climbing and don't worry about the kit side of things!

Oh I see. Maybe an old lanyard or extra long split tail would do the job? I have a stupid long split tail somewhere, I might try it..

I'm not totally agreeing with you. All those things you mention are to do with the selling of euipment. Loler is to do with checking thats it still suitable for use. Its not quite the same thing. Certificates of confrmity are not the same as Loler? i.e. You can have gear with no CE mark that you got from the states for example, and that could pass a loler test depending on the tester. It would also be ok in comps dependign on what the committee has decided. If I lolered a rope with no marking on it, I would (hopefully) know what the rope is and I would check its not damaged and pass or fail it on that basis, and put a mark on it to identify it from other ropes that that company/person owned. You didn''t answer my previous question: Did anyone at the welsh comp have their kit failed because it didn't have a serial number on it?

You wouldn't easily get heat build up though would you?

Don't forget there is 30% discount for arbtalkers so its only 140 quid!

This one of bobs looks good too! Notice that the pulley is on the end of the rope and the ring is on the friction hitch part. Its an interestign variation.

There are different speed grades available, measured the same as CD-ROMs, in multiples of 150 kB/s (1x = 150 kB/s). Basic cards transfer data up to six times (6x) the data rate of the standard CD-ROM speed (900 kB/s vs. 150 kB/s). High-Capacity cards are made with higher data transfer rates like 66x (10 MB/s), and high-end cards have speeds of 200x or higher. SanDisk classifies their cards as: Ultra II — minimum read speed of 15 MByte/s (100x) Extreme III — maximum speed of 30 MByte/s (200x) (SanDisk Class 6) Extreme IV — up to 45 MByte/s (300x) (Currently only available for Compact Flash formats) Note that maximum read speed and maximum write speed may be different. Maximum write speed typically is lower than maximum read speed. Some digital cameras require high-speed cards (write speed) to record video smoothly or capture multiple still photographs in rapid succession. This requires a certain sustained speed, or the video stops recording. For recording, a high maximum speed with a low sustained speed is no better than a low speed card. The 2.0 specification defines speeds up to 200x. SD Cards and SDHC Cards have Speed Class Ratings defined by the SD Association. The SD Speed Class Ratings specify the following minimum write speeds based on "the best fragmented state where no memory unit is occupied":[8] Class 2: 2 MByte/s - 13x Class 4: 4 MByte/s - 26x Class 6: 6 MByte/s - 40x SD and SDHC cards will often also advertise a maximum speed (such as 133x or 150x) in addition to this minimum Speed Class Rating. Important differences between the Speed Class and the traditional "X" speed ratings are; 1) the ability of the host device to query the SD card for the speed class and determine the best location to store data that meets the performance required, 2) class speed defines the minimum transfer speed. Even though the class ratings are defined by a governing body, like "X" speed ratings, class speed ratings are quoted by the manufacturers but unverified by any independent evaluation process. On 21 May 2009, Panasonic announced new "class 10" SDHC cards, claiming that this new class is "part of SD Card Specification Ver.3.0".[9] Toshiba also announced cards based on the new 3.0 spec[10] As of November 2009[update], the SD Association's Web site does not include information on this new class or new specification. Glad I got that sorted, all clear now!

An experienced climber should be able to take a tree down calmly and safely. If your on a white knuckle ride I think your doing something wrong. Well put! I know where he's coming from too, and hopefully he knows that having a bit of fun at his expense is par for the course on Arbtalk. If your going to put yourself out there as the great big tree taker downer for nothing then you will get poked at!

Please don't patronise us, do you really think we need your help?? I wouldn't allow anyone on site who's in it for the adrenaline. This is a proffessional business, there is work to be done and it gets done withough any yee har ing or adrenalin inducing risk taking. If you want adrenalin go skydiving at the weeknends or something else like everyone else does. The problem with doing work for nothing is that you have "nothing" to lose. If you screw up you could walk away from it. I'd rather employ someone who needs the money and is careful in there work in order to ensure further money in the future.

Sure, mine too, but last year I bought from them at the APF, (cut from the reel) and no serial numbers. Not a problem though, I mark them myself. It would never be a problem at a comp though as far as I'm aware.

I might have?

Stevie, don't put him off! After all not many people on here can manage those really big trees that I've heard of. We might need his help one day. Whatta guy, he must be like so brave and that!

Did anyone at the comp have their gear failed cos the lable was missing? Loler requires kit to be indentifiable. It doesn't have to be labeled by the supplier although that is a seperate requirement. Lets say you buy a rope with a label on one end but you nick the rope with a handsaw 1m from the end. The rope would fail Loler becaus of the nick. So you cut the 1m off and chuck it along with the lable. That does not mean that the rest of the rope is unusable or that it will fail Loler inspection. I agree ropes should be labeled by the supplier esecially if cut from a reel, but that rarely happens at trade shows and thats ok. Oh. Well done on going to the WTCC.

What comps have you been to where you've had to have labels on your rope? Anyone inspecting gear will know what it is and if its suitable, then as long as the condition is good that is all that matters.

Yes, nearly. You don't need to do one as good as drews. You don't have to splice anything either. All you want is a pulley up the tree to run your rope through. That can be done very cheaply i.e the cost of the pulley only, and any rated pulley will do. The petzl fixe would work fine. Tie it onto a prussik loop, then tie the prussik on another bit of ropewith a big bowline at one end with hose pipe on it to keep it open. Then you need a retriever on the other end. HAve you got any spare pulleys already?

Have you thought about making one?

Ok, learn something new everyday! Do cameras not have an internal memory that will buffer the information if there is a delay getting it onto the card? Computers have one, can't remember whats its called though. I guess only top end cameras would have it as they would be the only ones that need it.

No such thing as a spare ropeguide! I've got 2 and use both and would happily have another.