Husqvarna King
-
Posts
1,210 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Classifieds
Tip Site Directory
Blogs
Articles
News
Arborist Reviews
Arbtalk Knot Guide
Gallery
Store
Freelancers directory
Everything posted by Husqvarna King
-
Another vote for spectrum, great for sharpening too...and you get sweeties ?
-
Sounds like a good bit of kit, did you modify it yourself? I'm pretty careful with my saws but waiting for the day it falls in half
-
I have the mark1 540, I love it and it's superb on take downs. Maybe a bit flimsy if you have workers using it although apparently they changed the AV springs for buffers in the newer one so must be better, although I'd heard not quite as much go in as the earlier models like mine. It comes with different size top handles which is a nice touch. The 201 has improved since it first came out and is meant to be pretty good and seems to be the more popular with most of the guys I work with nowadays. I was put off by three of the 201's in the shop having cracked oil filler guards/casing....would have meant that as it got dragged through the tree the oil cap would have taken the bashing. Don't rule out the echo....on hot days I'd choose it for reliability and happy to put up with the slightly less power. Good luck with whatever you choose ?
-
-
The sub base is the drive way, the gravel just makes it look nice, gravel as shallow as possible really and compacted in. Definitely no more than 2inch. 1 ton of gravel will do approx 15-20sqM at 2"thick
-
I took down two sycs with this around 10 years ago, remember asking on here what it was, two days cutting in as many days....no problems as far as I know. Thanks for the heads up ?
-
I use 3mm square or star line, just whittle an edge off to get in the holes on the standard head. If you're cutting fine grass the thinner is better but I find 3mm the best all round
-
I always clean off before fitting new blades yes but I haven't checked if the blade pockets are tight, do these have a torque? I always torque the blades ?
-
Blades had done about 10 hours, the inside blade was fine and good edge on main part of blad in photo. That's the 4th set to have worn exactly the same way right on the outer edge of flywheel. Will whip the belts off next week and have a look/listen. Cheers
-
I bought a low hour timberwolf 125 from orange plant last year. I haven't done many hours on it yet but change the blades much sooner than recommended to keep the machine in good condition. Each time the edge of the outer blade has been badly worn with the rest of the blade and other inside blade being in good condition. I have run my finger along anvils and last time took off a very small bur, this time it had still done the same, any ideas? It chips very well and I can't hear anything when I turn the flywheel by hand
-
Concrete is permeable, seen it before but I concreted some drop down bollards with normal concrete, they are inside undercover and even though in a concrete Wellington they still fill with groundwater in winter and a lot of it. I was surprised how much. If I remember correctly I think you have to be careful with waterproofer and reinforcing not sure if they go together. Good luck ?
-
Put back together today, paint still soft though after 72hrs, scratched with finger nail needed a little more paint needed although all but under the spare wheel is smooth. Although it was ral2004 orange it hasn't matched well really. I wouldn't recommend 2k non isocyanate aerosol to anyone. Hope it hardens ☹️
-
Well done. ?
-
Hi, I'm not very good with machinery electrics but have run both older versions of the 160, the 125 and the entec 150. When I have had similar problems it has been the relay (car style one). One occasion it was the roller engagement switch. Another thing on some of the older chippers is the throttle needs to be flat out to run the rollers. I had a bungee on the entec to stop it creeping back and the rollers stopping. It worked a treat. Good luck and let us know how you get on ?
-
I left after taking the tape off, I think another can would have been about right, all that prep work to run out of paint ?
-
With masking tape still over warning signs, took them off shortly after. The patch around the spare wheel is the worst and the vertical part behind the engine ?
-
So I put my top coat on today, the orange ral 2004 that timberwolf recommend is terrible against my 6 year old paint and after applying 2 cans - 4 coats ( to just the engine and fan section) I ran out of paint. I'm gutted it looks awful, although the paint seems quite good. Should I let it dry and start all over again, rub down undercoat and respray with more cans this time? ?
-
Thanks, going to start it soon, I'm only spraying the orange at the mo, appreciate the tips ?
-
Thank you, it's non iso 2pack so no more dangerous than any normal spray apparently
-
Thanks for the advice, I'm not too bad at light spraying it's the fact that it's 2pack non iso that was worrying me with the hardening etc
-
Perhaps the theives are going to return it after discovering electrical problems ? Hopefully the rightful owner will be reunited ?
-
With all the spare time on my hands at the moment I thought I would touch up the chipper (paint I mean, I'm not that fond of it!). Well it was a lot worse that I thought, classic tw125 seams rusted etc and so far I have rubbed down and primed the engine and fan housing. The spray shop I ordered my top coat from recommended non iso 2k paint as harder wearing and better around fuel etc so I went for it. I have very little experience in this field and Google gives mixed reviews and ideas. Has anybody got experience with these type of aerosols? Am I best to do 3-4 light coats 30mins apart or closer while paint is still tacky? Some of the stories suggest if you don't get it right it doesn't harden properly. Also any idea how long to leave until I use the machine again. Thanks in advance
-
Another vote for uni power, I do remember having to wait weeks for a valve stem for an older Kohler command engine
-
I can't recommend scag enough, we currently run about 7 of them and they produce an excellent finish and are generally very reliable providing they are well maintained Yes, I have a rotary and a flail, both 48inch walk behind, the rotary makes a beautiful job of both rough and amenity grass and the blades are thick and great for mulching. The flail is very useful for chopping up hedge cuttings in areas where you don't have to be too fussy. Service them every year and never any problems ?
