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Rob D

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Everything posted by Rob D

  1. Ah well Mick onto the next job..... It's all relative really ain't it. If you'd done it you'd have had it niggling your conscience for ages... Well done for telling matey you weren't happy and moving on IMO Great thread for the endless debate on the rights and wrongs of the tree world though!!
  2. 30 litres a day is a good amount of water coming out... After all over 5 weeks thats 1000 litres or so which is a ton of water!
  3. You can have the other chainsaw as a 'dead saw' on the other end and it will cause very little friction. Even better have it idling and you then have an automatic oiler on the end The trouble is the weight as you introduce it into the log and back out again the other end Once it's in the log and cutting you'll be fine.
  4. It's a good point - when you're chainsaw milling in the height of summer do you wear chainsaw trousers or not? The trouble is as soon as you start saying 'don't wear them when it's really hot' someone will cut themselves and all of a sudden all fingers are pointed your way Weigh up the risks and situation and make an informed decision! The other thing with chainsaw milling is the fumes and dust. I've been using Aspen the last few years so the fumes aren't really an issue any more but a dust mask has got to be a good idea if you have a lot to do. And your chainsaw boots are always going to be essential moving those heavy planks around.
  5. He won't be doing that again
  6. Not going to the trade show but I'll get a few of these in anyway and get one over to you. Bob Slade had one for the same reasons. I don't like to advertise them too much becasue you get huge vibration off them! But it does mean you can do jobs with a double ender by yourself. Give me a call after 11th June 07811611457 and we'll get one sorted. They're quite expensive at £55-00 + vat just to warn you.
  7. Always worth knocking out a few planks I reckon.... even if you just go for 3" to do it quicker and cut down on mess. Not sure what birch is used for but I'm sure a trawl of the net would get a few ideas.
  8. Good news Bob I thought that would be a good one! I'm sure they'll use you again in the future as well. Yes stick some pics up on this thread when you get a chance,
  9. Nice looking planks. I've been making garden furniture staight from green oak. So much easier to work with as is soft (compared to dry anyway!) and nice and flat. If you dry it first it can then be a bit of a pain to bolt together as you always get a twist or something happen...
  10. Has anyone taken you up on this Bob?
  11. You love em really Stevie
  12. Never mind Jon - if all goes well I'll keep some in storage!
  13. We could always swap a bit.... mind you I think you're a way aways to try and transport it.....
  14. Solar kilning is good in that it's cheap but there'll be a lot of degrade I think... But perfect for lesser value wood like softwood and such. But these sauno kilns look the business! Wonder if Tommer has heard of these and his thoughts? Good price - I knew that the big kilns steam first as it changes the structure of the wood and allows the water to then be taken out with minimum problems with the timber.... But I asssumed buying something to do this would be out of my price range.
  15. Mick I'm almost creaming! Looking forward to those pics!
  16. Nice one Mick. Yes I can safely say I'm salivating!! Stick up some pics and I'll give you a call Monday - great stuff!
  17. Neeemmmmm dum dum dum neeeemmmm dum !! Sorry Tom - can't hear you over the din of this chainsaw now what were you saying about bandsaws etc?
  18. I'm no expert Jon but 25 litres of water a day is fine... And I would expect this to start going down as time goes on and the temperature in the kiln to start going up. The free water in the wood will come out quickly and easily but as time goes on you'll then be pulling out bound water (in the wood cells) and this will take longer. You don't want to pull out too much water too quickly as you'll get a lot of defects in the wood like case hardening and such.... 11 weeks seems a good length of time to get the wood dry - it's mainly 2" isn't it?. I've done 4 kilnings - the first was the best, the second not so good as the electricity tripped while I was away for 3 weeks and the third wasn't too good either as the dehumidifier was not working properly. 4th was good though.... Next I'm going to use one of the polytunnels as a solar kiln (where hopefully I can dry more wood cheaply) and the kiln/dehumidifier combo for more valuable/rarer wood only. All this wood drying is tricky....!
  19. What do you sell those at and are they treated at all?
  20. £12 a litre and works well. Does need a fresh coat every few months if its outdoors but this is only a minute or 2s work... needs to be shaken well before use but you can see it's waterproof after a bit of rain... Best outdoor oil I've found so far
  21. Nice job... def works for me
  22. Drying wood can be a bit of a nightmare particularly with oak If you cut it during the summer it's almost impossible to keep it from developing various drying ailments....
  23. Smart and looks good indoors... Been busy making some furniture myself soon but looking at what everyone else has been making going to have to up my game !!
  24. I've found this new oil to use for outdoor stuff -called 'Outdoor Danish Oil' from Rustins. Danish Oil everyones heard of before and although this has Danish Oil on the tim it's a completely different thing - water based, has lots of natural stuff in it and quick dry. Looks a bit like a pinky milk. But it's a nice non messy non toxic treatment for outdoors.

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